Cannelure tool ??

[muzzlebrake]

Anybody use one and if so what is the best and simplest in your opinion?
The more I shoot these AR rifles the more I see the need for crimping into a cannelure to help stop the bullet jump when the bolt slams shut especially on heavier bullets. Taper crimping on smooth bullets has not been enough on some of my reloads and the bullets have jumped all the way out into the lands. This is a no no and really jacks with my chamber pressures not to mention accuracy and extreme velocity spreads. We all know what too much taper crimp pressure does to the cases so I need to start putting cannelures on bullets that don't already have them and even when they do the cannelure is not always in the right place so that needs to be corrected.

[M16]

http://www.corbins.com/hct-1.htm

[muzzlebrake]

I've looked at those Corbins and also the CH tool.
I've also looked at cranking down on Lee FCD's but not sure I want to squeeze the bullets that hard without a cannelure already in the jacket. I've always taper crimped and that's plenty good grip for bolt guns but these autoloaders will jump a bullet clean out of the case neck if not really locked in.

Bullet selections and availability means I can't always find factory bullets that already have the groove on them. Speer, Sierra, and most Noslers are always slick.

[muzzlebrake]

I just hate spending $175 on a tool I may never get benefit from.
On the other hand He who dies with the most tools wins

[M16]

I’d look at my resizing die. You may not be getting enough neck tension. Is the neck being sized down enough? The expander button may be slightly oversized. You can chuck the button in a drill and use some sandpaper to take it down a thousandth or two. While I prefer to crimp semi auto rounds I haven’t found it to be necessary at all times.

Also you might try seating in one step and then doing the taper crimp in a separate step. I pretty much have gotten away from doing them in a single step. I use two seating dies. One to seat and one to crimp.

[kmon]

For semi autos in 5.56 and 6.5 Grendel I reduced the size of the expander button so there is .004 inch less diameter than the bullet that will be inserted. With that I have not seen movement. Chamfer the case mouth though and seating the bullet will be easier.

.002 smaller works great for bolt actions but as you have found it is not tight enough to hold in place every time.

Just saying it works for me

[M16]

Also check that feed ramp. What’s causing that bullet to get pushed back into the case. A little burr can cause misalignment.

[Samson]

I think I would buy an already cannalured bullet, or pick a powder that will fill the case and compress, thus preventing setback. Varget works well with that in 556.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[scott.str]

I’ve loaded a lot of AR rounds and try not to crimp. Use neck tension. Or buy a bullet designed for the crimp you just limit your options. Like others have said. Increase neck tension. Anneal. Just rifle for any issues

[okiepighunter]

trim brass all to same length and we use Lee factory crimp die on last stage of dillon 650
they wont move! dont need to use crimping grooves

[muzzlebrake]

Also check that feed ramp. What’s causing that bullet to get pushed back into the case. A little burr can cause misalignment.

I think I would buy an already cannalured bullet, or pick a powder that will fill the case and compress, thus preventing setback. Varget works well with that in 556.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

It's not the bullet being set back into the case. It's the bullet creeping forward during battery when the bolt slams forward. The inertia of the bullet causes them to jump forward stopping against the lands which leads to higher pressures. The heavier the bullet the more movement I get.

[muzzlebrake]

I do crimp but prefer to lightly crimp into the cannelure groove as opposed to squeezing the case mouth edge into the bullet jacket. Taper crimp is fine with my bolt guns. Doesn't always hold the bullet firm in the autos without squeezing to the point of almost shoving the shoulder back therefore and Lee factory crimp die is used in a final separate stage. It works but like I said, I hate squeezing the bullets that hard and deforming the jacket even though it is basically doing the same thing as a cannelure groove. Light taper crimp into a cannelure seems to not affect accuracy as much and in most cases helps especially with velocity spreads.
Getting wrapped around the axle over thinking stuff is a biatch
Doctors call it OCD but what do they know?

[muzzlebrake]

Long video on bullet crimping and accuracy effects. Very informative if you have the time. https://youtu.be/BOBPMSMNOeE?t=946
Seems medium to heavy crimping works in favor of accuracy on most bullets.

[kmon]

Sounds like your mind is made up, just buy the Cannelure tool.

[muzzlebrake]

Sounds like your mind is made up, just buy the Cannelure tool.

Ouch! the price hurts too bad