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Old 04-09-2020, 10:45 PM   #51
WRasco
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Multiple shops with PVC over the years, never had a problem.
Ran Paint booths, Head shops and Tire stalls and various pressures.
Wore out a couple of compressors but never had any issue with the lines.
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Old 04-09-2020, 11:24 PM   #52
scarecrow
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If there is a ? at all with putting anyone in possibly harms way I’m going with overkill every time. I like the price and ease of installation but I’m not taking a chance for a few extra dollars.
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Old 04-10-2020, 12:45 AM   #53
Atfulldraw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarecrow View Post
If there is a ? at all with putting anyone in possibly harms way I’m going with overkill every time. I like the price and ease of installation but I’m not taking a chance for a few extra dollars.
this. right. here.

I've seen pvc blow, and it isn't pretty, lots of little shards are produced.

My barn has a single hose reel mounted on the ceiling right in the middle. I ran a regular air line up to it from the compressor and can reach anywhere in the shop from the reel. If I need more hose, I just grab another one hanging on the wall.
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Old 04-10-2020, 05:46 AM   #54
Uncle Saggy
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Use black steel, copper or something specific for air

PVC is a bad choice. In addition to some of the reasons stated above, airlines will accumulate oil over time which will break down pvc.
If memory serves me right pvc air lines above ground is an OSHA violation that’s in place for employee safety


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Old 04-10-2020, 07:34 AM   #55
Big Lee
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Whatever you end up going with, make sure you have a great filter/dryer. Do not cheap out on the filter/dryer. As stated above, your air tools are not cheap. If treated properly they’ll last a lifetime. Drain the main tank regularly. Fix any leaks when they occur as it becomes the source of moisture buildup. Make the lowest point of all downward piping a ball valve to blow out lines. I tend to over kill things.... But, in my shop I ran a larger than needed black pipe to all the hose drops. My thinking was it also acted as a storage tank for the compressor and when using some of the larger equipment the initial pressure drop was less affected. I have no idea if there’s any validity to that or not. I like copper/steel simply because I see it as a one time fix. PVC leads me to believe I will have to repair it one day. Probably on a day most convenient for you, when you have nothing else better to do. I sealed all my threaded ends. I hate walking in a shop and hearing a hissing noise. Make sure your connection to the tank can be shutoff and disconnected easily Incase of compressor failures or upgrades. I put accessible ball valves near each hose drop. To simply “Kill The Line” when your air hose needs repairs or replaced. Buy a ferrule crimper and the ferrules needed for your air hose ends. Do not go the route of hose clamps. The air chuck side takes the most abuse and the hose will typically leak there first. I would not buy 1/4 hose.
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Old 04-10-2020, 07:52 AM   #56
txpitdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lee View Post
Whatever you end up going with, make sure you have a great filter/dryer. Do not cheap out on the filter/dryer. As stated above, your air tools are not cheap. If treated properly they’ll last a lifetime. Drain the main tank regularly. Fix any leaks when they occur as it becomes the source of moisture buildup. Make the lowest point of all downward piping a ball valve to blow out lines. I tend to over kill things.... But, in my shop I ran a larger than needed black pipe to all the hose drops. My thinking was it also acted as a storage tank for the compressor and when using some of the larger equipment the initial pressure drop was less affected. I have no idea if there’s any validity to that or not. I like copper/steel simply because I see it as a one time fix. PVC leads me to believe I will have to repair it one day. Probably on a day most convenient for you, when you have nothing else better to do. I sealed all my threaded ends. I hate walking in a shop and hearing a hissing noise. Make sure your connection to the tank can be shutoff and disconnected easily Incase of compressor failures or upgrades. I put accessible ball valves near each hose drop. To simply “Kill The Line” when your air hose needs repairs or replaced. Buy a ferrule crimper and the ferrules needed for your air hose ends. Do not go the route of hose clamps. The air chuck side takes the most abuse and the hose will typically leak there first. I would not buy 1/4 hose.

Could you please recommend a good quality inline dryer? I am just using a harbor freight one as an additional one prior to my plasma cutter, which has its own condenser.


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Old 04-10-2020, 08:24 AM   #57
Big Lee
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Originally Posted by txpitdog View Post
Could you please recommend a good quality inline dryer? I am just using a harbor freight one as an additional one prior to my plasma cutter, which has its own condenser.


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I use a desiccant system from Sharpe. I do not paint, but it is designed for paint booth setups. I use my plasma quiet often. Amongst other air tools. There are setups that cost less. But again I tend to over kill and like the one time purchase aspect and will spend freely on certain items that I feel are important.
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Old 04-10-2020, 08:38 AM   #58
cva34
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PEX piping is highly susceptible to damage by sunlight. If exposed to sunlight, the molecular structure disintegrates. This causes the piping to become brittle and rupture. ... Most manufacturers put UV stabilizers in PEX tubing to provide at least 30 to 60 days UV protection.Jul 27, 2010
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Old 04-10-2020, 09:55 AM   #59
Atfulldraw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Saggy View Post
Use black steel, copper or something specific for air

PVC is a bad choice. In addition to some of the reasons stated above, airlines will accumulate oil over time which will break down pvc.
If memory serves me right pvc air lines above ground is an OSHA violation that’s in place for employee safety


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I've heard stories of OSHA shutting places down over this issue, but have no way to say if they are true or not.
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Old 04-10-2020, 10:26 AM   #60
Chad74
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I've heard stories of OSHA shutting places down over this issue, but have no way to say if they are true or not.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:26 PM   #61
kmitchl
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Originally Posted by TX_H-F View Post
Pex is only rated at like 125 right? I have a combo of copper pipe to a 3/8 hose to a hose reel.

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Officially 160 psi at 73F using grade B. YouTube has examples of tests at 500 psi and the the failure was at the connections.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:30 PM   #62
kmitchl
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Originally Posted by muzzlebrake View Post
All air compressors should have a dryer and should be maintained to keep condensate out. Otherwise at some point the compressor will take a hit. Traps at low points in airlines should also be used regardless of piping material. Water getting into expensive air tools is not a good thing.
I do a blow down on my 150 psi compressor and 40 gal tank at least once a week and if I don't intend to use it for a while I just shut it off and release the air. Thinking about adding a desiccant filter on the air intake since I am always getting a lot of water at blowdown.
Operative word here “should”. I have one but before i built my shop it was directly from the compressor to the distribution piping.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:52 PM   #63
kmitchl
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The best improvement you can make to your air system is the add an additional cooler and coalescing water separator. I have an auxiliary transmission cooler bought on Amazon mounted so the fan in the compressor sheave blows across it. Air from the compressor comes in at 130F. Outlet of the cooler is at 70 F with the shop at 67F. Almost all of the water comes out at the outlet of the cooler. I have a refrigerated dryer downstream of the cooler but get very little water iut of it.
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