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Catching Coyotes with Snares

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    #16
    Sounds like you're on it. Maybe a smaller loop, i always have to fight myself to make them smaller. May try to secure it better so it doesn't fall with slightest touch, anything will work. Set up a trail cam in video mode to maybe catch what's happening.

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      #17
      Shrink that loop down, coyotes just ain't that big! Setting a snare is kinda like shooting a gun-aim small, miss small. Aim to get his nose into the CENTER of your loop, you neck catch him every time.

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        #18
        Pictures of Setups

        Here are three different set ups we use snares on. The loops are around 8-in wide and around 1 to 1.5-inches off of the ground but still haven't caught a coyote to this point. Do you guys see anything wrong with these setups?

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        I like the idea of putting a trail camera up on video mode to see what's going on.

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          #19
          Sometimes you can crowd a coyote too much. Slight, blocking will work. Blocking it up with logs and rocks will work but might take a while before they trust it enough to crawl under. You can actually guide them with just a piece or two of grass. Your sets look fine. Just give it time.

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            #20
            Sets look ok from what I can see. A little grass woven in the fence hanging down to break up the outline on both edges will help. Scent control is imperative when setting any coyote trap. If those sets are in the menard area, those coyotes have been hammered for years by the sheep and goat guys. They are very educated and Even the best trappers can have trouble catching educated coyotes. That being said those sets will catch coyotes, it just might take some time.

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              #21


              Videos worth a 1000 words made a 2 min one on how I set them.

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                #22
                Thanks for the video!

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                  #23
                  i snare a lot at our place in Zapata. The type of snare on a fence hole IMO really matters. A standard L shaped cam is not fast enough for a timid coyote. The cam on a coyote catcher type snare is super fast especially if you take the time to preload the snare. Having a proper support wire and a wammy coil instead of a piece of tubing really helps you postion the loop. if you have time degrease your snares and either dye them dark or FDE if you can. There is a dye company that makes a dark dye called Ghostrider and a light color dye called Sandman. Im sure if you google it you will find it. The snares i use are from The Snare Shop and are called Coyote Catcher snares. They are my favorite.

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                    #24
                    Those crawls don't look like they've been used recently, I would leave those snares and be patient. It's getting to the time of year when he coyotes are wanting to stay really close to her coyote or find a her coyote, the established breeder coyotes will stay close to their home range.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by bgleaton View Post
                      I see some people spray paint them to help hide the shiny wire. Just wasn’t sure if boiling, dyeing, painting, etc. was necessary or not.
                      In my experience it helps. I boil and dye all of my snares. Has worked for me for years.

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                        #26
                        I see that you covered the bottom part of your snare with dirt. Are you catching them by the head/neck or the shoulders? Is there a reason you do this versus hanging it 1-2in off of the ground?

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by bgleaton View Post
                          I see that you covered the bottom part of your snare with dirt. Are you catching them by the head/neck or the shoulders? Is there a reason you do this versus hanging it 1-2in off of the ground?
                          IMO it helps break up the snare and the wire on top is something their use too. Plus that loose wire they can get their nose under and push it over their backs. But I catch them three ways. I’d say 25 percent by one front leg the close pull point with the spring get there paw when they go to clean the slide out or try to make it bigger. The last picture on my video has the big male caught but the paw. The most common way is neck and one leg body hips. They shoot the slide fast and they pull the snare tight this is ideal and say 65 percent like this. Lastly is the two back legs together right above the paws. Like a heal shot in steer roping. Part of the reason I tie the tail high. Just like roping and pulling up. Makes it harder to shake. when they shimmy through the snare all the way, it catches them way back but caught none the less. The other good thing about tieing high is the fence gives a lot. Can’t get the shock and the dead pull the ground wire gives them. Lots of give. Plus they can only dig straight down rather than down the fence line.

                          Also correct to the video I think it’s the 42 inch Holdem snare from snare shop. No deer stop.

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                            #28
                            I would love to learn how to do this.
                            But don't gut shoot a pig
                            I would also like to learn how to foot trap them.

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                              #29
                              Good tips above.
                              If I find an active hole under our HF - I will double my chances and put one on each side of the HF.

                              We don't go all that crazy trapping anymore as we have so many deer now - but from like 2013 to 2018 we probably caught 20/year.

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                                #30
                                Make sure to keep your human scent at a minimum. The stranded wire will hold scent for along time if you get your sweat or body oils on it. When I set out my traps I use a pvc gloves to keep my odor at a minimum and wear my scent free hunting clothing.

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