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Old 06-10-2019, 05:00 PM   #1
BowSlayer
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Default Boat transom replacement help

Has anyone had it done? Any ballpark on what it might cost? Its an old skeeter fish/ski that I got out of a barn that is in amazing shape except for the weak transom. I saw it sitting way back in a lady's barn and ask her if she would sell it and she gave it to me. Been in that barn for 16 years according to the last time it was registered and the number of dirt daubers on it. If you know of anyone around Tyler/Longview that does it I would appreciate a contact.

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Old 06-10-2019, 05:10 PM   #2
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I did one myself and it turned out pretty good. Cut the fiberglass cap off, dig out all the old wood, pour in the new transom. I think total cost was like $180.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
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I did one myself and it turned out pretty good. Cut the fiberglass cap off, dig out all the old wood, pour in the new transom. I think total cost was like $180.


Pour?
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
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I did one myself and it turned out pretty good. Cut the fiberglass cap off, dig out all the old wood, pour in the new transom. I think total cost was like $180.
After reading your post I did some research on it. I had no idea they made a pourable transom material. I can do it myself I think. Thanks
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:53 PM   #5
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Yes it's not hard just time consuming. Good luck!
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:25 PM   #6
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I had mine done a couple years ago and it was far from $180. it was labor intensive. I would estimate it was two weeks labor
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:30 PM   #7
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My buddy’s transom cost 3k to replace
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:53 PM   #8
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Check the engine well for dobbers nests, they blow an engine if sucked in the intake. I might would just pour a seacast transom if the boats not in excellent shape, its cheaper, heres a good post with info of a guy that did an old champion that way https://texasfishingforum.com/forums...ampion_transom
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:20 PM   #9
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The pour in is super solid and wont rot like wood. Its a heck of a lot of work but worth doing yourself since most places will charge a couple grand.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by BowSlayer View Post
Has anyone had it done? Any ballpark on what it might cost? Its an old skeeter fish/ski that I got out of a barn that is in amazing shape except for the weak transom. I saw it sitting way back in a lady's barn and ask her if she would sell it and she gave it to me. Been in that barn for 16 years according to the last time it was registered and the number of dirt daubers on it. If you know of anyone around Tyler/Longview that does it I would appreciate a contact.



Thanks


Iím in Longview and have done many of them. I wonít do it for $180 though.


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Old 06-10-2019, 10:28 PM   #11
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Had mine done at McNeil Marine in Austin, Texas. Great guy and did excellent work. Replaced stringers, motor mounts, transom. Required pulling engine (inboard/outboard) and putting back in and realignment. It cost $3500 and came with a 10 year warranty. Brian McNeil is the owner and usually really busy.


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Old 06-10-2019, 10:30 PM   #12
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Iím in Longview and have done many of them. I wonít do it for $180 though.


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How much? Pour in or replace the wood? It sounds like the pour in is easier and better?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:42 PM   #13
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Is the motor good? Before you spend $ on a hull you should be sure you know the total budget #. No such thing as a free lunch or a free boat.

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Old 06-10-2019, 10:43 PM   #14
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Is the motor good? Before you spend $ on a hull you should be sure you know the total budget #. No such thing as a free lunch or a free boat.

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Oh and we are gonna need some pics!

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Old 06-10-2019, 11:29 PM   #15
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How much? Pour in or replace the wood? It sounds like the pour in is easier and better?


The pour in is just a high density urethane foam. Same thing as the gap filler foam you buy at Lowes but a 15-20# density versus 1.9#. I use PET foam board and tie it in with carbon fiber and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass and polyester resin. You have to gusset the transom loads into the lower portion of the hull or youíll eventually have problems no matter what you do.

Hard to tell what all is busted out from your pic but just holding my thumb up and closing one eye Iíd say $1350 What size motor are you running and do you have a jack plate?


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Old 06-11-2019, 08:24 AM   #16
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The pour in is just a high density urethane foam. Same thing as the gap filler foam you buy at Lowes but a 15-20# density versus 1.9#. I use PET foam board and tie it in with carbon fiber and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass and polyester resin. You have to gusset the transom loads into the lower portion of the hull or youíll eventually have problems no matter what you do.

Hard to tell what all is busted out from your pic but just holding my thumb up and closing one eye Iíd say $1350 What size motor are you running and do you have a jack plate?


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I havenít posted any pictures. My boat is still in tact. No jack plate and a 115 hp outboard.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:14 AM   #17
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Is a bad transom a thing for Skeeters? Seems like I have heard of skeeters more than any other brand.
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:24 PM   #18
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Watching


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Old 06-12-2019, 02:58 PM   #19
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Skeeters made a lot of transoms that rot pretty bad back in the day. My boat was a 99 and it rotted. Not sure when they got rid of the wood.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:03 PM   #20
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It aint the wood, its the seam between the cap and the bottom hull. Cajuns were built the same way.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:12 PM   #21
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I did a pourable in my garage on my 97 nitro with a 200 Merc.

Borrowed a cherry picker, bought a kit to do it, and took me two solid days without wife or kid interruptions.

It was labor intensive and terrible but worth it at the time. $300 or so total in materials, tools, and what not... We fished out of it twice a week for a spring/summer. Sold the boat for twice what I bought it for.

My .02
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:15 PM   #22
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How is that done ?only videos Iíve found is cutting the inside or outside of the transom to replace the wood. Also how hard is it to re-fiberglass the repair


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Old 06-12-2019, 04:05 PM   #23
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How is that done ?only videos Iíve found is cutting the inside or outside of the transom to replace the wood. Also how hard is it to re-fiberglass the repair


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You cut the cap off with a cutting wheel. Save the piece you cut off and put it back on with a little fiberglass work when you get done repairing the transom. The hardest part of the job is digging out the rot.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:09 PM   #24
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And that rigidity ties into the existing wood during expansion or does the rigidity by itself provide structural strength


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Old 06-12-2019, 04:59 PM   #25
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I'm going to finish doing what I need to do to get this boat out on the water and see how it actually performs before spending much money on it. Once I get it on the water and it does ok I'll tear into the transom and do it myself.

Surprisingly everything on the boat still works as it should. I hooked a battery and water hose to the motor and it fired right up and seems to run great. Might be a different story on the water though.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:31 PM   #26
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Ill come watch!!!! Just say when lol
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:55 PM   #27
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I did a pour-in fix 10 years ago on a 16 ft bass boat and it worked great. I sold the boat about 2 years later, so I'm not sure how well it lasted beyond that.

If you want it to last I'd go with 175gr7.62's deal.
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
The pour in is just a high density urethane foam. Same thing as the gap filler foam you buy at Lowes but a 15-20# density versus 1.9#. I use PET foam board and tie it in with carbon fiber and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass and polyester resin. You have to gusset the transom loads into the lower portion of the hull or you’ll eventually have problems no matter what you do.

Hard to tell what all is busted out from your pic but just holding my thumb up and closing one eye I’d say $1350 What size motor are you running and do you have a jack plate?


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The pour stuff I've seen sets up hard, I know the composite transoms they build today is a foam substance called coosa board, some replace wood transoms with coosa.

Last edited by bossbowman; 06-13-2019 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:57 PM   #29
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I snapped a picture of her today while I was cleaning up outside. Almost ready to take it to the lake and see how it does. If it runs good Iíll worry about the transom then if I donít sink it on my first run.

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Old 07-06-2019, 04:46 PM   #30
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Clean for its age, I would rebuild the transom on that one instead of the pour. Kinda bounce the motor by hand, does the transom flex any?, you can also take a big socket and tap around the motor transom bolts, if there are any dead sounding spots its probably compromised.

Last edited by bossbowman; 07-06-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 07-06-2019, 04:48 PM   #31
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Clean for its age, I would rebuild the transom on that one instead of the pour. Kinda bounce the motor by hand, does the transom flex any?, you can also take a big socket and tap around the motor transom bolts, if there are any dead sounding spots its probably compromised.


Thereís no doubt the transom is bad. Thatís the first thing I checked.
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Old 07-06-2019, 04:52 PM   #32
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Be careful if it already has a weak transom, putting it on the water and running it through the test can make it a whole lot worse. Tournament buddy had transom break and motor kick up into the boat back deck... and the motor was still running with the prop going
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:51 PM   #33
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Don't go pourable. Do once and get it over with. Worth it in the long run.

Posted by a cajun in a lawn chair, listening to the eagles, drinking beer in the yard, pretending to work on the truck and boat to get some peace and quiet.

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Old 07-06-2019, 05:59 PM   #34
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Don't go pourable. Do once and get it over with. Worth it in the long run.

Posted by a cajun in a lawn chair, listening to the eagles, drinking beer in the yard, pretending to work on the truck and boat to get some peace and quiet.

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Are you saying the pourable transom is temporary? I probably wonít keep it long term anyway but donít want to waste my time.
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Old 07-06-2019, 06:01 PM   #35
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Are you saying the pourable transom is temporary? I probably wonít keep it long term anyway but donít want to waste my time.
No it's not really temporary. It will hold. Its just really not that much work to put a transom in the right way and be done with it.

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Old 07-06-2019, 06:03 PM   #36
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I'm having trouble explaining today. Basically- if you go pourable, and end up keeping it, or later down the road a future owner needs to do anything to the transom. It will make their life harder.

And as I said above. Not really that hard to do it right. Just some time and sweat.

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Old 07-06-2019, 06:04 PM   #37
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No it's not really temporary. It will hold. Its just really not that much work to put a transom in the right way and be done with it.

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I wouldnít know how to do it right which is why Iím considering pouring one. To pay someone to put one in would probably cost more than the boat is worth.
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Old 07-06-2019, 06:06 PM   #38
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I wouldnít know how to do it right which is why Iím considering pouring one. To pay someone to put one in would probably cost more than the boat is worth.
YouTube will teach you. It's really not as hard as it seems. That's how I learned.

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Old 07-06-2019, 06:44 PM   #39
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Replaced one back around 92. It held up great until i lost the trailer going 55 and the trailer jumped the medium and hung the lower unit which ripped it out.
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:27 PM   #40
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Might as well take the top cap off and re-do the stringers while your at it, if the transom is rotten stringers are probably too, that old skeeter is full of wood. Replace both with composite and that boat is good to go as long as you want to. I know someone who did this on an old nitro it wasn't really a pain to do and a skeeter shouldn't be either, just took some time, lots of youtube videos out there.
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:32 PM   #41
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Replaced one back around 92. It held up great until i lost the trailer going 55 and the trailer jumped the medium and hung the lower unit which ripped it out.
wow.
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Old 07-13-2019, 02:50 PM   #42
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What you end up doing?
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Old 07-13-2019, 02:53 PM   #43
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What you end up doing?


Nothing yet. I actually planned to take it to the lake today and see how it ran but upon closer inspection I decided not to chance it. Iím going to pull the motor and start working on it soon. Iíll update the thread as I have time to work on it.
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Old 07-13-2019, 08:38 PM   #44
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I got the motor loose from all the wiring today so all thatís holding it on the boat now is 4 bolts. Going to try to get someone to help me get it off completely tomorrow after Church.

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Old 07-13-2019, 08:59 PM   #45
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She just gave it to you? Why can't I ever come across something like that.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:02 PM   #46
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She just gave it to you? Why can't I ever come across something like that.


She just wanted it gone. Iíve gotten lots of things free or cheap just by asking if itís for sale.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:05 PM   #47
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She just wanted it gone. Iíve gotten lots of things free or cheap just by asking if itís for sale.
Can I come hang out with you for a week? I need some stuff.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:22 PM   #48
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She just wanted it gone. Iíve gotten lots of things free or cheap just by asking if itís for sale.
You have a golden horseshoe somewhere
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:36 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
The pour in is just a high density urethane foam. Same thing as the gap filler foam you buy at Lowes but a 15-20# density versus 1.9#. I use PET foam board and tie it in with carbon fiber and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass and polyester resin. You have to gusset the transom loads into the lower portion of the hull or youíll eventually have problems no matter what you do.

Hard to tell what all is busted out from your pic but just holding my thumb up and closing one eye Iíd say $1350 What size motor are you running and do you have a jack plate?


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Seems you have some experience at this. I have a similar problem with a transom on a Bass Tracker (alauminum). What is the name of this type of foam and where can you purchase it. I am not familiar with it.
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:22 PM   #50
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Seems you have some experience at this. I have a similar problem with a transom on a Bass Tracker (alauminum). What is the name of this type of foam and where can you purchase it. I am not familiar with it.
You need to get a welder, this pour type transom is for fiberglass boats only.
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