Broadhead tuning

[Rat]

What I don't understand about broad head tuning is this...

I have a montec that hits 2 inches to the right.

I have a slick trick mag that shoots 3 inches to the right and 3 inches high.

Tuning for the slick trick would require vertical and horizontal movement of my rest or nocking point, while tuning for the montec would only require horizontal movement of the rest.

How can tuning for either of these broad heads assure me that I'm getting proper arrow flight and that my bow is tuned properly?

I would start over with field points. Walk back tune (or French tune) and then group tune; see if the broadheads are more consistent then.

I'm not a big fan of paper tuning but if this is your method check the flight through the paper at about 3-5 yards, the arrow should be stable by then; if not, tune to get it stable in that range.

[JW]

Depending on me (!), and the broadhead I can shoot a 3-5" group at 50 yards. That's to say my field tip group will be about 1 1/2"-2" and my BH will be 3-5" around them.



30-40 yards and I shoot different spots to make the fletching last longer...



I have some 150 grain Thunderheads that are the same way, I forget the cut on them, they are like flying hatchets though! I had an old CSS System that had the smooth cams that they would shoot with field tips on; but anything with even a hint of a bump in the draw cycle was a no go. I adjusted the sights for them and let 'em fly! I still have a box of them but I don't shoot them any more.

I've been out of 160's for years. My fave 3 blade head of all time. I had a Mountaineer and later a CSS.

[Rat]

I've been out of 160's for years. My fave 3 blade head of all time. I had a Mountaineer and later a CSS.

I just checked the box, I have three left with the blades and warshers; you want 'em?

[enewman]

What does it matter if your field points and broadheads hit the same. In the off season I shoot field points. In the hunting season I adjust and tune for the broadhead. I practice with the broadhead.

I agree with what most have posted. I do lots of playing. Lots of tuning just to see what I can get out of the bow But when it's time to hunt I don't care about field points

[JW]

I just checked the box, I have three left with the blades and warshers; you want 'em?

160 3's or 150 2's. Either way yes. May find me some 2317's and do early 90's hunt!

[JW]

What does it matter if your field points and broadheads hit the same. In the off season I shoot field points. In the hunting season I adjust and tune for the broadhead. I practice with the broadhead.

I agree with what most have posted. I do lots of playing. Lots of tuning just to see what I can get out of the bow But when it's time to hunt I don't care about field points

Agreed. As long as they are flying straight and grouping it's all good in the trailer hood!

[JW]

Ol Rat is my kinda dude. He is sending me some Ol Thunderhead 150's!!! Hell I've sent out a many of broadheads! Only the second time somebody has sent me some!

[Csmith52779]

What I don't understand about broad head tuning is this...

I have a montec that hits 2 inches to the right.

I have a slick trick mag that shoots 3 inches to the right and 3 inches high.

Tuning for the slick trick would require vertical and horizontal movement of my rest or nocking point, while tuning for the montec would only require horizontal movement of the rest.

How can tuning for either of these broad heads assure me that I'm getting proper arrow flight and that my bow is tuned properly?

horizontal adjustment is just a fix for what the arrow is doing, I think if your arrow is left or right its mainly a spine issue, try different spines, adjusting draw weight, different arrow lengths. I say that because if your center shot is set and you see your BH are left and right, I personally don't want to mess with my center shot. And some times if your high and right adjust your nock point and most of the times it will bring it down to bullseye. But again horizontal adjustments should be made with arrows and draw weight.

[Bill]

Given that most start with cut arrows, that is not variable. I found Easton's bare shaft test with field points the best way to check spine.

[txdukklr]

Set third axis on your sights...

lol

Rat knows his stuff that's exactly what i was scrolling down to respond.

3rd axis

[Csmith52779]

^ I agree not everyone has different length arrows laying around to tinker with, but none the less its a spine issue