Bare shaft tuning issue?

[mww982]

I am shooting a Mathews V3-31. 28" Draw length, cams maxed out at 65lbs. Arrows are day six 300 spine, cut 27" carbon to carbon, 100 grain collar system, 125 grain tips. I got my fletched arrow shooting bullet holes at the shop I go to. I was in my back yard messing around with bare shaft tuning at 20 yards. Bare shaft was hitting slightly right with the tail left. After a small adjustment with my rest, QAD MX, to the right. Bare shaft impacted right next to the fletched shaft, but still tail left. Could this be a form issue or is it more likely that I am under spine? Was getting ready to build my hunting arrows with the set up but if it is a spine issue, thinking I may need to go with the 50 grain collar system over the 100 grain. Thoughts?

[easeup]

not under spined. actually I looks like you are close to perfect as it gets

[Fishndude]

You gonna hunt with bare shafts?

Possibly a form issue. Simple top hat swap could solve it.

[jds247]

Bump the rest a tiny bit more. You can clear it up.. if you are more than 1/8 from center shot put the rest back and swap the top hats..

[mww982]

You gonna hunt with bare shafts?

Possibly a form issue. Simple top hat swap could solve it.

Kyle actually swapped out the top hats for me when I came in and checked the paper tune with the fletched arrow. May have to come in with the bare shaft and shoot that through paper to see what it is doing.

[Fishndude]

Kyle actually swapped out the top hats for me when I came in and checked the paper tune with the fletched arrow. May have to come in with the bare shaft and shoot that through paper to see what it is doing.

Bring it.

[BETTERLUCKYTHANGOOD]

I personally have never put a lot of faith in paper tuning bare shafts...I don't hunt with bare shafts. I have always tuned my set up with broadheads and field points. When my broadhead arrows and field point arrows hit the same at 30 yards I feel the set up is good to go. It has worked for me for years, but then again....its just the way I do it and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

[WhiplashTX]

I personally have never put a lot of faith in paper tuning bare shafts...I don't hunt with bare shafts. I have always tuned my set up with broadheads and field points. When my broadhead arrows and field point arrows hit the same at 30 yards I feel the set up is good to go. It has worked for me for years, but then again....its just the way I do it and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

I agree. To save some time I'll walk back tune before broadhead tuning.

[SPUD]

I agree. To save some time I'll walk back tune before broadhead tuning.

whats broadhead tuning?

[bugleboy]

whats broadhead tuning?

When you can tap two of them together and hit a C sharp, you know they’re in tune.

[mww982]

This was at 20 yards, yes I know the nocks are missing, I took out the lighted nocks before I took the picture as they were messing with it. Would you keep messing with the rest or just start broadhead tuning from here?

[JES]

How far do you plan to shoot?

I have a similar issue and just accepted it and then took that set up and shot a moose at 68 yards with it. Moose didn’t know my bare shaft was tail left, he died just the same.

I say if you’re only hunting whitetails and pigs then let it ride. It’s likely a string or cable twist issue that may take a while for you to chase out.

[jds247]

Put something heavy on top of your target. It may be jumping when the arrow hits it.. if that doesn't work you can start broadhead tuning .. broadhead and bareshaft are pretty much the same. You may be close enough to hunt now..

[sp-bow]

Have you tried rotating the nock and seeing if that changed your tail left?

[WhiplashTX]

Here's my thoughts on arrow tuning in as simple an explanation as possible. The goal is to have the arrow flying as straight as possible. Not only will this improve accuracy and penetration, it will also lessen broadhead steer. There are a few prerequisites . Your bow needs to be in tune, especially if it's a dual cam. Spine needs to be close, too stiff is better than under spined. For hunting purposes, slightly stiff is better for penetration if you hit bone. The fletching needs to be adequate and helical is better for broadheads. Your form and releases need to be good, torqueing the bow affects the results. An arrow square should be used to get nock height close.

Paper tuning: Worthless in my opinion for our uses. It can take 20 yards for an arrow to stop wobbling after being flexed from the release . You'll waste a lot of time chasing the perfect tear and the arrow rest settings are going to get changed anyways when you broadhead tune.

Bare shaft tuning: Not much use for hunting other than indicating how well your fletching is compensating.

Walk back tuning: Now we are getting somewhere. To do this, aim at the same point with your 20 yard pin for distances from 20 to 60 yards. Obviously your 60 yard arrows will be impacting much lower than your 20 yard arrows. If the rest is adjusted correctly , the arrows will all be in a straight line perpendicular to the ground. This should save some wear on your target when broadhead tuning but isn't a good indicator of rest/nock height.

Broadhead tuning: The goal here is to get your field points and broadheads hitting in the same spot by ensuring the arrow is flying perfectly straight. The broadheads need to be straight, pass the spin test, and helical fletching is a plus. The problem with broadheads (even mechanicals,) is that they act like a wing and can shift the front of the arrow unlike a field point. I usually start at 20 yards and then move back to 40 and make adjustment using the chart below.