2000 Honda Civic : Blinking Check Engine Light

[COACH_EM_UP]

My commuter car (2000 Honda Civic LX) started running rough and the check engine light started blinking yesterday. Luckily, it happened as I was pulling into the driveway, so I didnt drive it that far while blinking.

I am pretty sure that I know what the problem is and I have hooked it up to a code reader, but wanted to check on here to see if anyone else had this problem and where you went from here. I am just looking to solidify what I think is wrong with the car, based on the codes and some research online.

Anyone experienced this before on their HONDA or pretty much any older import car? Thanks.

[SabineHunter]

My commuter car (2000 Honda Civic LX) started running rough and the check engine light started blinking yesterday. Luckily, it happened as I was pulling into the driveway, so I didnt drive it that far while blinking.

I am pretty sure that I know what the problem is and I have hooked it up to a code reader, but wanted to check on here to see if anyone else had this problem and where you went from here. I am just looking to solidify what I think is wrong with the car, based on the codes and some research online.

Anyone experienced this before on their HONDA or pretty much any older import car? Thanks.

Since you aren't telling us the codes, the only thing I can say because the CEL is blinking, don't drive the care, don't start it up, have it towed to a repair shop.

[Rubi513]

Misfire on cylinder 3.

[CDF]

If the light is blinking its a misfire code Most likely a bad coil or plug

[COACH_EM_UP]

Since you aren't telling us the codes, the only thing I can say because the CEL is blinking, don't drive the care, don't start it up, have it towed to a repair shop.

The code that came up was:

P1399

[COACH_EM_UP]

If the light is blinking its a misfire code Most likely a bad coil or plug

So, I had the plugs replaced back in January. Also had a new oxygen sensor put in. Back in 2019, I had new wires. I have not changed the coil or distributor or the rotor. Car has 171,500 miles on it.

Some research that I have done says it may be a burnt valve, possible catalytic converter issues, misfires, possible timing issue, problems with the VVT, or possible valve needing adjustment. The car was low on oil when all of this started to happen, so I sure hope it is not something with the valves.

[Benno]

If my check engine light isn’t on in my work car, I just assume the bulb finally burnt out.

[TeamAmerica]

you could swap the spark plug wire/coil pack with another one, clear the code and see if the code comes back on the same cylinder.

how is the car running and driving? it would help if you gave us the symptoms you have.

[BrianL]

burnt valve, coil, or injector

[COACH_EM_UP]

you could swap the spark plug wire/coil pack with another one, clear the code and see if the code comes back on the same cylinder.

how is the car running and driving? it would help if you gave us the symptoms you have.

The car started driving rough last week. Would almost die out and did not seem like it had power. It was 2 quarts low on oil. I added the oil, drove home, and CEL light came on. I put the code reader on the car and got P301 and P1399. I am an idiot and cleared the codes with the reader. I took the car to my mechanic. I told him the codes and he was unable to locate the source of the problem. He is the same mechanic that changed the plugs, o2 sensor, and some other work back in January 2021. He did find that the fuel filter was clogged, so he changed that and the car ran fine. That was Tuesday night.

Yesterday, I drove the car to work and back home. On the way home, when going up a hill, I noticed that I had to downshift to get up the hill, rather than stay in 5th gear. and accelerate up the hill. This happened on almost every hill that I encountered. I also noticed that the car was sluggish, did not have any get up when I accelerated, and just felt like it was bogged down. I gave it some gas, accelerated downhill to the entrance and noticed that the CEL was flashing as I gave the car gas to pull into the neighborhood. As I was pulling into my neighborhood, it felt like the car would just not go. I got to my driveway, parked the car, turned it off, and ran the code reader again. I got code P1399 again. I let the car sit and cool down for a couple of hours. I went back and turned the ignition on to see if the CEL was still on. It was not blinking anymore, so I turned the car off. It has been sitting there ever since, not being turned on. I am going to get my trailer and load it and take it to my mechanic tomorrow.

Any suggestions as to what it might be? Like I said, my online research has said everything from a misfire to a bad coil to bad distributor cap/rotor to burnt valve to valve adjustment to possibly being on the edge of snapping the timing belt. I wanted to get on here to see if I could narrow it down from the people in the know before I hauled it to the mechanic.

[Matt_C]

Could be the O2 sensor. If the sensor cools then the code may not flash then after warming up flashes. Thoughts?

[SabineHunter]

Burnt valve, overheats. New car time.

[COACH_EM_UP]

Burnt valve, overheats. New car time.

I have heard that about the burnt valve, but the car does not overheat.

I am not getting a new car. I can have this one fixed or find a replacement motor and have it installed for $1100.

[Bassdeer]

If my check engine light isn’t on in my work car, I just assume the bulb finally burnt out.

good one

[kurt68]

I have the exact same car, even the LX. The 4 cylinder cap and rotor gets pretty bad if you haven't changed it. My has 165,000 miles on it. I bought it with 107,000 on it. The corrosion was really bad on it. Also, I had almost the same thing happen. One spark plug wire wasn't hitting right. Took the sparkplug out and noticed it was not firing. Changed plugs and wires and it ran again. I'm getting ready to sell it, the ac went out and I need a pickup.