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Old 05-15-2022, 10:33 PM   #1
cram369
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Default Sniper Hog Light Review

I've been looking at hog lights for the last few years. I even bought a Cyclops light on sale and got a NAP Green bow light for Christmas. Both were ok, but were fixed focus and you had to be quick on the trigger once you lighted up the target.

I kept reading the threads on hog lights, and Sniper Hog Lights kept coming up. I never saw a negative comment.

Fast forward to last October, I finally ordered the 38LRX bow light. Order confirmation and shipping were prompt, with good confirmation and accurate delivery date. Package arrived and everything was as described.

Took it hunting that week with the bow and it's really a quality light. First, it has 2 buttons. High and low beam. Then you can gradually go from a flood that barely illuminates less than 10 yards on low to easy 30 or 40 yards. I never bothered checking further because I don't shoot that far with a bow at night. The machining on the housing to adjust from flood to spot is very smooth. Just twist it to adjust.

Then just to see what it would do, I attached it to my rifle scope one night. I put it on flood and hight beam setting, then slowly adjusted until it painted the hog at 175 yards and shot him. I could have easily seen to shoot one at 250 to 300 yards.

There's no vibration or rattling to worry about and it's a solid light for night hunting. I got the red and green light with mine, but have only used the red so far.

If you're on the fence order it. It seems a little expensive, but you get what you pay for and won't regret it if you hunt with it much.

On a side note, the pigs seem to spook less when moon is out. Just an observation so far, but that's another thread along with spot and stalk and which broadhead to use in different situations. [IMG][/IMG]





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Old 05-16-2022, 06:14 AM   #2
AntlerCollector
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There’s a reason Sniper Hog Lights are a TBH sponsor on here. Many of us have been using those lights for years. Glad to hear you finally got one. Imo they are the best bow lights on the market. I personally have preferred the red light over the green. I’ve had Hogs spook from the green light and never from red.
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:36 AM   #3
MooseontheLoose
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Sniper makes a very high quality product. I bet I've tripled my shot opportunities at pigs since I started carrying that light in my pack/on my bow.
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:53 AM   #4
Smart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MooseontheLoose View Post
Sniper makes a very high quality product. I bet I've tripled my shot opportunities at pigs since I started carrying that light in my pack/on my bow.

x2.....They definitely have increased my opportunities . Great folks and great products. Heading out this evening and may have to put it to use.



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Old 05-16-2022, 08:54 AM   #5
chrigging
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Best bow/feeder light available IMO.
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Old 05-16-2022, 01:41 PM   #6
gonehuntin68
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Many thanks to all of you. We really appreciate your support and the kind feedback. Here are some tips on how to use the light when bow hunting over bait.

1 - As soon as it gets dark enough, turn the light on low and focus it so you have just enough light to see the pigs on the bait but not enough light to make the shot.

2 - When the pig(s) first come in, do not turn the light on, let them feed for at least 5 minutes to settle down before you turn the light on.

3 - Without drawing your bow, turn the light on low with it aimed right at them and then turn it back off ASAP. The best way to do this is to just slowly press down on the low button until the light comes on and then let go of the button as soon as it comes on to turn it off. I call this flashing the pigs. If you do this correctly the pigs will not completely spook and the low button will not make any noise. It may startle them but they don't completely leave. If it startles them at all, leave the light off for a couple of minutes until they settle back down and then flash them again. Repeat these steps until they stop reacting to the flash of light.

4 - Once they stop reacting to the flash of light. Draw your bow and get lined up the best you can with the light off and then turn the light on high and shoot. If they start to spook before you can shoot, turn the light off ASAP and repeat step 3.

The reasons I believe this works so well is

1 - Pigs know they get hunted over bait and usually get shot at within the first few minutes of showing up and are looking for a reason to spook like a light coming on. After they have been there a few minutes with no issues they tend to settle down and don't spook as easy.

2 - Because pigs are so used to game camera's going off while at bait, I believe they think the flash of light from the bow light is just another camera going off and after they see it a few times they don't pay attention to it.

Now with that said, I would say about 50-60% of the time they don't react at all to the first flash of light. Over my first 5 years of bow hunting with lights I tried all kinds of different ways to keep the pigs from spooking from a light but none of them worked consistently and then I started flashing them and it works every time for me. In the last 10 years, I have not spooked pigs completely off of bait with a light due to flashing them. You have to be patient on really spooky pigs as the longest I've had to wait from the time they showed up until the time I got the shot was 75 minutes. This was on a loan boar and every time I flashed him he would run into the brush line(only 5 yards away) and then come back out and feed. I had to flash him about 20 times before he finally stopped reacting to the flash of light. Most of the time it take about 3 to 5 times of flashing them before they stop reacting to it. You must have enough corn out to hold them so you can flash them several times if need be.

On a side note, if the wind is iffy, you might not have time to keep flashing them. If this is the case, you have to make a decision, risk spooking them with the light or risk them spooking due to smelling you. In cases like this, I always risk spooking them with the light because I would much rather have them spook from the light then from smelling me. If they smell me they might not come back another night and even if they do, they tend to circle downwind before coming in making it very difficult to kill them.
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Old 05-16-2022, 02:07 PM   #7
justletmein
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Seems like a good thread to ask, anybody else have issues with the pressure switch/caps? I bought a used set here in the classifieds and it's got two normal caps and a cap with the pressure switch. One switch works great so I just use that without problems and didn't think much of it. The other two seem to have to be "tweaked" perfectly to work but then they're inconsistent. Also the extra length on the batteries surprised me. I tried putting in normal 18650 batteries because I've got a bunch and they don't reach the contact points. I got three factory batteries that came with it so it's not a big deal for now but eventually they'll age out I'm sure.
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Old 05-16-2022, 04:14 PM   #8
Fishndude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justletmein View Post
Seems like a good thread to ask, anybody else have issues with the pressure switch/caps? I bought a used set here in the classifieds and it's got two normal caps and a cap with the pressure switch. One switch works great so I just use that without problems and didn't think much of it. The other two seem to have to be "tweaked" perfectly to work but then they're inconsistent. Also the extra length on the batteries surprised me. I tried putting in normal 18650 batteries because I've got a bunch and they don't reach the contact points. I got three factory batteries that came with it so it's not a big deal for now but eventually they'll age out I'm sure.
Call Rob at Sniper. He will take care of you
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Old 05-16-2022, 05:57 PM   #9
cram369
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Thanks for the tip Gonehunting. I'll try it first chance I get. That may be a new thread. And you've earned the compliments and customers.

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Old 05-16-2022, 06:09 PM   #10
ttaxidermy
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I'm buying one!!!!
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Old 05-16-2022, 07:13 PM   #11
Greenheadless
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Good thread…..I have been looking at them for a little while……. Good information

My biggest issue is not wanting to be sweating my you know what’s off just to shoot a feral pig.
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:46 PM   #12
Fishndude
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Snipers head lamps are a must for every hunter. Trust me, when you turn it on, all your buddies will just turn their cheap crap off. Lol!!
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:51 PM   #13
Seatruckn
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Recently got the 40kap headlamp and it’s a beast. Perfect for hiking around and plinking in the dark.
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Old 05-17-2022, 05:56 AM   #14
Smart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishndude View Post
Snipers head lamps are a must for every hunter. Trust me, when you turn it on, all your buddies will just turn their cheap crap off. Lol!!

Yup… that 40KAP headlight is a bad mofo from a guy who turned his LED handheld flashlight off, although it wasn’t cheap…. Saved my bacon several times literally now that I own one …
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Old 05-17-2022, 05:59 AM   #15
Smart
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Default Sniper Hog Light Review

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenheadless View Post
Good thread…..I have been looking at them for a little while……. Good information

My biggest issue is not wanting to be sweating my you know what’s off just to shoot a feral pig.

Hell it’s all season hunting. And they are a heckuva challenge with a bow with those noses. You can watch Golden Girls reruns in the AC any day.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:05 AM   #16
gonehuntin68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justletmein View Post
Seems like a good thread to ask, anybody else have issues with the pressure switch/caps? I bought a used set here in the classifieds and it's got two normal caps and a cap with the pressure switch. One switch works great so I just use that without problems and didn't think much of it. The other two seem to have to be "tweaked" perfectly to work but then they're inconsistent. Also the extra length on the batteries surprised me. I tried putting in normal 18650 batteries because I've got a bunch and they don't reach the contact points. I got three factory batteries that came with it so it's not a big deal for now but eventually they'll age out I'm sure.
Our lights are designed for Protected 18650 batteries and Protected 18650 batteries are longer than unprotected 18650 batteries due to the built in protection circuit. To get the light to work with unprotected 18650 batteries, all you need to do is to unscrew the LED module and stretch the spring out a little on the back of the LED module and screw it back in. Also, if your LED module is not screwed all the way in, it can cause the issue your talking about of the tail caps not working properly. The LED module can unscrew itself a little over time from changing out the battery and from vibration so please check to make sure the LED module is screwed in all the way. Also make sure the tail cap is screwed on all the way on. If those two things don't fix the issue, you will need to send it back for repair. We will repair it for free the day we receive it and send it back to you the next business day. Please send me a PM if you want to send it back for repair and I will send you the info to send it back. You can also call us and we can talk about it over the phone if you like.

Please note that if you use a Unprotected 18650 battery in the light, you can damage the battery because the light can drain the battery too and that damages the battery and that is why we designed the lights for a protected battery. The protection circuit in the protected battery will cut power from the battery before the battery can be drained too low. For example, if you have a unprotected battery in the light and accidentally leave the light on it will drain the battery all the way down and probably ruin it. With a protected battery, it will not be able to drain the battery all the way down because it will cut power from the battery when the battery reaches about 2.7V thus protecting the battery from damage.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:10 AM   #17
justletmein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonehuntin68 View Post
Our lights are designed for Protected 18650 batteries and Protected 18650 batteries are longer than unprotected 18650 batteries due to the built in protection circuit. To get the light to work with unprotected 18650 batteries, all you need to do is to unscrew the LED module and stretch the spring out a little on the back of the LED module and screw it back in. Also, if your LED module is not screwed all the way in, it can cause the issue your talking about of the tail caps not working properly. The LED module can unscrew itself a little over time from changing out the battery and from vibration so please check to make sure the LED module is screwed in all the way. Also make sure the tail cap is screwed on all the way on. If those two things don't fix the issue, you will need to send it back for repair. We will repair it for free the day we receive it and send it back to you the next business day. Please send me a PM if you want to send it back for repair and I will send you the info to send it back. You can also call us and we can talk about it over the phone if you like.

Please note that if you use a Unprotected 18650 battery in the light, you can damage the battery because the light can drain the battery too and that damages the battery and that is why we designed the lights for a protected battery. The protection circuit in the protected battery will cut power from the battery before the battery can be drained too low. For example, if you have a unprotected battery in the light and accidentally leave the light on it will drain the battery all the way down and probably ruin it. With a protected battery, it will not be able to drain the battery all the way down because it will cut power from the battery when the battery reaches about 2.7V thus protecting the battery from damage.
Thanks for the heads up on the batteries, makes sense. I'm not the original owner, bought the whole rig used here on TBH, so wasn't sure on any warranties and all that. One tail cap works great and I've changed the LEDs back and forth for different colors so nothing's wrong with the light or light setup I don't think. It's just the other tail cap is inconsistent and the pressure switch cap pretty much never works. I wasn't really too worried about it because the one cap is fine. I really like the light but don't hunt at night much so the one tailcap is perfectly fine. I was just curious if it was something people have seen before or if this light had maybe seen a lot of time in the field.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:45 AM   #18
gonehuntin68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenheadless View Post
Good thread…..I have been looking at them for a little while……. Good information

My biggest issue is not wanting to be sweating my you know what’s off just to shoot a feral pig.
I understand this and that is why in the Spring and Summer all our feeders don't go off until right after dark. This way I don't have to get to my stand until the sun goes down. I also don't hunt out of blinds because they are too hot, I'm either hunting out of ladder stands, tripods or just a chair on the ground. I also wont hunt unless there is at least a 10mph wind. When you do this, it is not that hot out and I'm not sweating my you know what off. Well that is until it's time to track the hog and drag it, then I get really sweaty but for me it's more than worth. Pigs always seem to pattern much better in late spring and summer. I think this has to do with less hunters in the woods and less feeders running overall. I also believe in feeding much more than anyone else in my area because if there is 3-4 feeders all within about the same distance from the pigs bedding area, they are going to go to the feeder that is throwing the most corn first. This means I don't have to sit as late because the hogs come to my feeders first. My feeders go off for 12 seconds right after dark and then another 12 seconds about 1 hour after dark. I don't even hunt a feeder unless the hogs are coming in before the second feeding. I have the second feeding mainly for the bigger boars because the bigger boars tend to not move until after dark in my area and I want there to be corn on the ground when they start moving.

Here is some more tips that I've learned over the years.

1 - Make sure your feeding enough to make your spot very attractive for hogs to want to hit your spot first.
2 - If you hunting over a feeder, never put out something new when your hunting it. This will more than likely spook the pigs. This includes throwing out a bunch of extra corn. Sure you can still kill pigs doing this but your cutting your chances down. You don't want your setup to look any different or smell any different than it does when your not there.
3 - Never walk through the area of your bait within a few hours of hunting that spot. Smart pigs will bust you if you do. It doesn't matter if you wearing rubber boots and all kinds of scent killer, they can still bust you. I've seen hogs bust my scent from where I walked 6 hours after I walked it with rubber boots.
4 - Pigs have great hearing, you need to be quiet while on stand. When it's dark out, you could have pigs within 20 yards of you and not even know it. If they hear you, you will probably not even know they busted you.
5 - Don't shoot at other animals if you want to kill a pig. I learned this the hard way because I was always shooting raccoons before the pigs came in and the pigs would smell my arrow or the blood from the raccoon and bust me. Sure you can get away with it sometimes but not every time. I wont shoot a raccoon until I'm ready to leave.
6 - I wont hunt pigs unless I have at least a 10mph wind because any less than that and the wind tends to swirl and pigs have too good of nose and will bust you most of the time when bow hunting. I also don't like to have a wall of brush or tree's behind me and to the left and right of me because that will also cause the wind to swirl. I like to set up in or right in front of a loan tree or bush. This way the wind doesn't have anything to hit and swirl around, it just blows straight through.
7 - Do not bow hunt a spot if the wind isn't right, once pigs bust you by smell they have a tendency to circle downwind before they come in after that and if the pigs start coming in downwind, your going to have a tough time killing them at that spot.
8 - If your hunting pigs much from a feeder, you should move that feeder every 1 - 2 years because eventually the pigs are going to learn your setup and they will continually come in from down wind making that spot very difficult to kill pigs with a bow. You don't have to move it far but move it at least 100 yards. Now if you also hunting deer of that feeder and deer are more important to you, it would probably be best to not move the feeder.

Now with all that said, I'm only saying what works best for me, if you don't agree that is OK. One of the great things about hunting is figuring out what works best for you.
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