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    Cutting fmj arrows

    I'm wanting to cut some arrows all down to the same length and add outserts to them. They currently have inserts in them, can I cut through the insert too, to make them easier to get out? I've done the drill bit trick and it seemed to take a while to get them out.

    Thanks

    Mike

    #2
    In for pros and cons.

    Good luck Mr Mike.

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      #3
      Can it be done? Yeah, of course. I personally wouldn’t do it though.

      Blank shafts are made to be cut. Shafts with inserts, not so much. Added thickness adds to heat when cutting. That will compromise the shaft’s dexterity which absolutely can cause a failure when using. I mean, even cutting through one with an insert installed is risky. That tends to be more solid than what most saws and discs/blades are designed for.

      I’m by no means a pro but every arrow that I, my wife and both children shoot were cut and built by me. I’m sure someone will come along to correct me, and all good, but I’m not cutting through an insert to build an arrow to shoot. Not for me or anyone else I’d build for.

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        #4
        I did this recently with some fmjs. I screwed in a field tip, heated the tip with a torch then pulled out the insert w/the tip attached. Basically your just heating up the glue. It doesn’t take much. I used a mini table circular saw from Harbor Freight to cut the arrow.

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          #5
          Originally posted by ktex View Post
          I did this recently with some fmjs. I screwed in a field tip, heated the tip with a torch then pulled out the insert w/the tip attached. Basically your just heating up the glue. It doesn’t take much. I used a mini table circular saw from Harbor Freight to cut the arrow.
          I've done the same. Or cut the head off a big nail and slide it in the other end and throw the inserts out. I made an arrow saw with a harbor freight mini cut off saw. Lots of plans online. I also change the blade out to a mini cut off wheel, smoother cut. An arrow squaring tool is also a must before and after reinstalling inserts.

          Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Originally posted by ktex View Post
            I did this recently with some fmjs. I screwed in a field tip, heated the tip with a torch then pulled out the insert w/the tip attached. Basically your just heating up the glue. It doesn’t take much. I used a mini table circular saw from Harbor Freight to cut the arrow.
            Like a little propane torch? I have one of those that runs off of little bottles I use to start the bbq with.

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              #7
              Originally posted by mikeyb_23 View Post
              Like a little propane torch? I have one of those that runs off of little bottles I use to start the bbq with.
              That should work, I used the plumbing type torch used to sweat pipe fittings etc. It doesn’t take much heat to get it out. Take your time on the first one.

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                #8
                Heat May or may not work. Depends on the type of glue used. Use too much heat and you’ll ruin the carbon.

                Why not just put the outsert over the end and be done? The HIT insert is far enough back to not interfere. And it adds a little weight. That’s assuming they’re already all the same length.

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                  #9
                  I’ve always used the heat method with no issues. If that won’t work, keep the insert and cut off from the vane end and then re-fletch the arrow.

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                    #10
                    Instead of using a field point, I use a bolt that will fit into the HIT insert. Heat the bolt and when the heat of the bolt breaks the glue- PULL THE INSERT STRAIGHT OUT , WITH NO WIGGLE !!!! This is kinda like brain surgery, a very delicate, risky operation, but it can be done successfully with some patience.

                    The purpose of the long screw is it helps to keep and unnecessary heat away from or touching the shaft.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Fishndude View Post
                      Heat May or may not work. Depends on the type of glue used. Use too much heat and you’ll ruin the carbon.

                      Why not just put the outsert over the end and be done? The HIT insert is far enough back to not interfere. And it adds a little weight. That’s assuming they’re already all the same length.
                      Some have inserts and some don't, they are not all the same length. The ones I was looking at are called half outs I guess.

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                        #12
                        So I tried the torch and got the first 3 out with some pulling. The next 4 I couldn't get out. Can I boil some water? Would that loosen up the glue enough?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by mikeyb_23 View Post
                          So I tried the torch and got the first 3 out with some pulling. The next 4 I couldn't get out. Can I boil some water? Would that loosen up the glue enough?
                          That will probably cause the laminate to separate from the aluminum and also between they layers. Cut off the back end and leave the inserts in them. Easier to reflech than destroy them.

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                            #14
                            yes you can cut through the insert with very little if any issue as far as the cutting goes,,, i have done hundreds.... however the advice to cut the nock end is the best way,,,,

                            if you still decide to cut through the insert, just go slow and don't force it, saw blades are very thin and can be brittle but your still stuck with removing at least part of the insert

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