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Old 01-11-2022, 06:34 AM   #1
Bryan11
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Default Knife Sharpening for a Novice

What's everyone's go to for getting their hunting knife, EDC and Kitchen Knifes back in shape?

I was never properly taught how to free hand on a stone. I've tried with very limited success. Most all my contraptions are the free hand type stones and i can never get the results i'm looking for.

I've used a work sharp with the belts and had some success and know people swear by them, but mine had been shredding belts and turns out to be a bad bushing/bearing.

So i'm at a crossroads where i either replace my worksharp with another one, try to find a part and repair it or try something else out like the guided lansky?

Trying to stay around $100 or less, unless you can really help me justify spending more for being an average outdoorsman.
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Old 01-11-2022, 06:38 AM   #2
Big Lee
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Call WS customer service. They may warranty it out for you.
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Old 01-11-2022, 06:38 AM   #3
Hoggslayer
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I got my Wife a RADA for her kitchen knives but I use it often.
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Old 01-11-2022, 06:42 AM   #4
kingranch1886
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I’ve got both a work sharp and a guided Lansky. The Lansky is better hands down. Too much give in the work sharp.
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Old 01-11-2022, 06:51 AM   #5
JES
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Default Knife Sharpening for a Novice

I have this Worksharp and use it for my kitchen knives, Ive been very happy with it:







Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite Knife Sharpener Including Additional Sharpening Stones and Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FWWDFF9...BM1KYDJH55WP7A

Last edited by JES; 01-11-2022 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 01-11-2022, 06:55 AM   #6
oktx
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If it’s not the motor bearings the part where you put the belt on can be replaced. $15.00 from WS.
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Old 01-11-2022, 07:06 AM   #7
retrieverman
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I was introduced to Lansky sharpeners in 1993. Get a Lansky with diamond stones, and you won’t regret it.

I keep a work sharp for sharpening my KOA Ulu, but other than that, it doesn’t do near as good of a job as the Lansky.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:02 AM   #8
RJH1
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Sharpening a knife to shave hair is pretty easy. My recommendation is to go buy a diamond Stone and a knife with a easy to sharpen bevel and blade like a mora that's not really expensive, and use it a lot, and start practicing. It's not rocket surgery and people have made knife sharpening way more complicated than it needs to be in the last 20 or so years. Also, on the diamond Stone no need to spend a ton of money there either. The bigger Smith's brand like you get at Lowe's or academy will work just fine. Good luck
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:21 AM   #9
Jason Fry
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A trick... color the edge with a sharpie. That'll show you where your strokes are cutting and if you're getting all the way to the edge. Sharpening to a burr is critical. After that, it's just polishing.

Work Sharp is a decent machine if you use a light touch. Don't use it to grind your blade away.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:28 AM   #10
Brute Killer
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I learned how to sharpen knives as a kid, wearing out several in the process.
It's worth learning.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:30 AM   #11
hopedale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lee View Post
Call WS customer service. They may warranty it out for you.
This
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:30 AM   #12
JakeGraves
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Send it to me and Ill get the edge stupid sharp. Like hair jumping off your arm before the blade touches them sharp. $10/blade plus shipping back to you.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:39 AM   #13
muzzlebrake
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Worksharp is good IF you know how to use it. Easy to ruin the tip and screw up the back at the ricasso. Being a knife maker I don't use them but I do sharpen all my knives on my 2x72 belt grinder using Trizact belts and finish on my hard wheel buffer. For touch up in the field I use a 2500 grit ceramic honing rod. I also have Japanese water stones but seldom ever use them.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:53 AM   #14
Outback
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I used a Lansky for years but it took so long to get an edge that I got where I wouldn't shoot hogs because it would dull a couple of knives that would take me an hour to resharpen. I moved to a Worksharp and haven't looked back. I will sharpen 4-10 knives at a time - 10 times on medium on all blades, 10 on fine for all blades and then, and this is key, strop the blade on smooth leather to remove the burrs. I use the back of the sheath of my Schrade Sharpfinger. Every one shaves easily and takes no time at all.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:57 AM   #15
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I used to be very good at putting edges on most all of our knives 30 plus years ago. The knives I have bought in the past 20 years, I am not any good at putting an edge on them. I have a collection of diamond stones, ceramic stones, old wet rocks. I have tried all types of angles and combination of diamond or ceramic stones. I can get somewhat of an edge on the blades, but nothing like when the knives were new.

30 plus year ago, I could put a edge on a knife, hold the edge of the blade 3/16" over my arm and go across my arm and cut all the hairs off 3/16" high. Cutting them flush at the base was easy. I don't have a single knife I can get close to that level of edge now days. Multiple knives I have, were that sharp when I got them. I think it's the metal the blades are made of, but also have been told, it is largely a result of most knives being sharpened with lasers when they are made. That you will never get a knife blade very sharp, with any type of stone, that was originally sharpened with a laser.

My wife bought me a Work Sharp, sharpener, there are some things it does pretty good on, but not any of my hunting knives.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:57 AM   #16
scott1022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Fry View Post
A trick... color the edge with a sharpie. That'll show you where your strokes are cutting and if you're getting all the way to the edge. Sharpening to a burr is critical. After that, it's just polishing.

Work Sharp is a decent machine if you use a light touch. Don't use it to grind your blade away.
Great trick here. I like using a wet stone. Amazon has plenty of good stones. I also had a ceramic rod that I use for polishing the blade after the wet stone.

As someone else said, just practice a lot. It's a matter of muscle memory. Your edge is going to be different from a factory edge. So if you try to sharpen a new knife, it may take you a little bit longer to get your edge to fully take over the factory edge. Keep at it and enjoy the process.
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:01 AM   #17
Dusty Britches
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I got this for Christmas and I sharpened knives and scissors that haven't been sharp in decades. They were tossed in a drawer as "maybe someday I'll find someone who can sharpen it." It even does broadheads. Watch the product video.

https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/...arpener/?nab=1
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:07 AM   #18
S-3 Ranch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JES View Post
I have this Worksharp and use it for my kitchen knives, Ive been very happy with it:







Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite Knife Sharpener Including Additional Sharpening Stones and Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FWWDFF9...BM1KYDJH55WP7A
This is the way to to go IMO, the belts do a convex edge,
And belts dont do some steels very well, steels that are 60+ hrc , diamonds are better for complex steels
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:08 AM   #19
Casey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty britches View Post
i got this for christmas and i sharpened knives and scissors that haven't been sharp in decades. They were tossed in a drawer as "maybe someday i'll find someone who can sharpen it." it even does broadheads. Watch the product video.

https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/...arpener/?nab=1
this! This! This!
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:08 AM   #20
powderburner
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my hunting back pack is full of knives. 95% custom from lots of various makers.
I have to sit down this year and start the process of sharpening knives.

The number one thing is take your time.

DO NOT RUSH IT

Once you get YOUR edge not the Factory or what was on it before. Then it should only take a few licks to get it back to where you left it.
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:32 AM   #21
Bryan11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Fry View Post
A trick... color the edge with a sharpie. That'll show you where your strokes are cutting and if you're getting all the way to the edge. Sharpening to a burr is critical. After that, it's just polishing.

Work Sharp is a decent machine if you use a light touch. Don't use it to grind your blade away.
I've used this trick when trying to true up my grinding plates for my meat grinder. I guess i need to start on my knives.
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:33 AM   #22
Bryan11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute Killer View Post
I learned how to sharpen knives as a kid, wearing out several in the process.
It's worth learning.
Not giving up on learning, just need a more fool proof way to keep my daily use knives in good shape while i still master sharpening by hand.
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:48 AM   #23
MadHatter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan11 View Post
What's everyone's go to for getting their hunting knife, EDC and Kitchen Knifes back in shape?

I was never properly taught how to free hand on a stone. I've tried with very limited success. Most all my contraptions are the free hand type stones and i can never get the results i'm looking for.

I've used a work sharp with the belts and had some success and know people swear by them, but mine had been shredding belts and turns out to be a bad bushing/bearing.

So i'm at a crossroads where i either replace my worksharp with another one, try to find a part and repair it or try something else out like the guided lansky?

Trying to stay around $100 or less, unless you can really help me justify spending more for being an average outdoorsman.
Wish you were closer.
I could spend about 10 min with you and have you putting a razor edge on a knife.
Like mentioned, people way over complicate trying to sharpen a knife, it has almost become like some type of voodoo
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Old 01-11-2022, 09:52 AM   #24
MadHatter
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This is something I posted several years ago.

Learn to do it without gimmicks, it's a good skill to have. The edge of a car window, edge of coffee cup, all kinds of things can become sharpeners. All that is required is a consistent angle on each side. You already can do it, you just don't know how. Every time you roll your wrist, left to right, your wrist articulates on the same path everytime. You don't even need to hold the blade at the same angle, left to right. If the right side is at angle x the left doesn't have to be at angle x also. It can be at angle y for example. Meaning if you hold the right side at 30 but the left side at 34 it doesn't matter. What matters is that the right is at 30 on every stroke and the left is at 34 on every stroke. Your body does this naturally. This is YOUR angle. A new knife or the knife your buddy gave you is NOT at your angle. So, you may sharpen a knife for hours and never put a edge on it. Why, the knife is at angle whatever, we'll say angle z. So the knife edge is at z angle but your laying the edge to the stone at x angle, and never getting anywhere. Now your mind is messing with you, your trying different things, really concentrating, all to no avail. You have to put your angle on the knife. This requires you to sharpen it until angle z is no longer there. Once you get the knife to this point, anytime you lay the edge to anything, it's at your angle. Every stroke is now sharpening the knife. It really is that simple, no rocket science involved. This was explained to me by an uncle, the Christmas I turned 11. He gave me an Old Timer muskrat, and a Smith 4" Arkansas stone. On my first attempt I put a razor edge on that knife and there was nothing to it. To pick up any knife, lay it to a stone at the exact edge it already has, and put a razor edge on it, is a skill that takes time. And really it's just feel, and not too difficult. I hope this makes sense and not to hard to understand. Try it, it will work for anyone. I would suggest a course stone at first because you will need to remove some metal.
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Old 01-11-2022, 11:13 AM   #25
Gulfcoastin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JES View Post
I have this Worksharp and use it for my kitchen knives, Ive been very happy with it:







Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite Knife Sharpener Including Additional Sharpening Stones and Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FWWDFF9...BM1KYDJH55WP7A
This Right here! Wife bought me one for Christmas. Watched a couple YouTube videos and it was game on. Its a fine tool to have.
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Old 01-11-2022, 12:43 PM   #26
kd350
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Lansky or wharthog v sharp
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Old 01-11-2022, 01:31 PM   #27
Leon County Slayer
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I sharpen 100+ knives a year as I make many and take care of my friends. DOA. Quick search and I’ve probably posted an article I wrote years ago on sharpening or feel free to pm me and we can talk options or a quick method of mastering the stone by hand. (A course stone, fine stone and ceramic lansky rod is what I use)

Last edited by Leon County Slayer; 01-11-2022 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 01-11-2022, 02:50 PM   #28
Lone_Wolf
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If you have knives that don't have the edge absolutely destroyed already, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is great, but if you're blade needs a ton of work, it can take awhile if you really need to remove alot of material. My strategy, start out with a nice knife and don't let the edge ever get to messed up. the Spyderco works great to keep them shaving sharp if you start out with decent knives. AND any idiot can use one.
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Old 01-11-2022, 03:01 PM   #29
BLee15
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We use the warthog with pretty good results and easy to use
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Old 01-11-2022, 04:01 PM   #30
Buffalo1
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A butcher steel rod & leather strop & paste.
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Old 01-11-2022, 08:50 PM   #31
dustoffer
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Here's the best one I've ever used in terms of good work and little time invested.

https://shop.gohunt.com/products/g5-...All%20Products
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Old 01-11-2022, 10:02 PM   #32
S-3 Ranch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustoffer View Post
Here's the best one I've ever used in terms of good work and little time invested.

https://shop.gohunt.com/products/g5-...All%20Products
I have used those tungsten carbide grove sharpening tool, but only on a filet knife or kitchen, scared to remove that much steel on a more complex steel like M4 or k390 , s60vn
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Old 01-12-2022, 10:24 AM   #33
Bryan11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadHatter View Post
This is something I posted several years ago.

Learn to do it without gimmicks, it's a good skill to have. The edge of a car window, edge of coffee cup, all kinds of things can become sharpeners. All that is required is a consistent angle on each side. You already can do it, you just don't know how. Every time you roll your wrist, left to right, your wrist articulates on the same path everytime. You don't even need to hold the blade at the same angle, left to right. If the right side is at angle x the left doesn't have to be at angle x also. It can be at angle y for example. Meaning if you hold the right side at 30 but the left side at 34 it doesn't matter. What matters is that the right is at 30 on every stroke and the left is at 34 on every stroke. Your body does this naturally. This is YOUR angle. A new knife or the knife your buddy gave you is NOT at your angle. So, you may sharpen a knife for hours and never put a edge on it. Why, the knife is at angle whatever, we'll say angle z. So the knife edge is at z angle but your laying the edge to the stone at x angle, and never getting anywhere. Now your mind is messing with you, your trying different things, really concentrating, all to no avail. You have to put your angle on the knife. This requires you to sharpen it until angle z is no longer there. Once you get the knife to this point, anytime you lay the edge to anything, it's at your angle. Every stroke is now sharpening the knife. It really is that simple, no rocket science involved. This was explained to me by an uncle, the Christmas I turned 11. He gave me an Old Timer muskrat, and a Smith 4" Arkansas stone. On my first attempt I put a razor edge on that knife and there was nothing to it. To pick up any knife, lay it to a stone at the exact edge it already has, and put a razor edge on it, is a skill that takes time. And really it's just feel, and not too difficult. I hope this makes sense and not to hard to understand. Try it, it will work for anyone. I would suggest a course stone at first because you will need to remove some metal.
Makes total sense about having to set your angle vs matching the factory edge exactly. I've got a coarse, medium, and fine arkansas stone. Sounds like i just need to put more time in on an old buck skinner i have and set my own edge.
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Old 01-12-2022, 10:36 AM   #34
MadHatter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan11 View Post
Makes total sense about having to set your angle vs matching the factory edge exactly. I've got a coarse, medium, and fine arkansas stone. Sounds like i just need to put more time in on an old buck skinner i have and set my own edge.
Yes sir .
You'll find it's not the least bit complicated and really doesn't require any skill, just a bit of understanding as to what it is you are doing.
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