Scope mounting/reticle alignment

[tdwinklr]

Ok, I'm humbling myself to ask this, and I 've mounted several scopes before
but is there a secret or at least a better way to keep my reticle alignment straight, vertically/horizontally?
Always had trouble with this, when tightening the scope down into the rings, the reticle alignment is thrown off slightly by doing that. It doesn't matter the rifle, scope, or rings either ... just same result and I have to guess which way its going to shift and then compensate.

[Marsh-Rat]

After getting the rifle level and secure I align the scope with a level on top turret. Slowly tighten rings alternating from side to side paying close attention to the bubble. If it shifts tap it back level and continue. I have found the twisting comes when the screws are tightened at different rates.

[cva34]

scope mounting

After getting the rifle level and secure I align the scope with a level on top turret. Slowly tighten rings alternating from side to side paying close attention to the bubble. If it shifts tap it back level and continue. I have found the twisting comes when the screws are tightened at different rates.

Don't know how to say it any better...I find on rings with screw on each side start with same gap between both sides of that ring and keep it that way..I even go as far as use a feeler gauge (automotive) when gap gets close.Close on both sides is OK (but flush and tight on one side ain't right)

I see quite a few where one side is flush and other side a 1/4 in gap or so..hope all is clearer than mud)

Wheeler makes a kit with levels..I got one BUT it has not impressed me

[catslayer]

Tighten screws down like a tire star pattern
Check it often go slow

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

[canny]

I use the plumb bob method. Once I’ve leveled the rifle in the vise I shine a light back through the scope objective to the eyepiece. This projects the reticle on the wall where I have a plumb bob hanging. Much easier to adjust and you can watch the actual reticle while tightening. There are a few problems with leveling the scope, hard to find a true flat surface (turrets are typically not perfectly flat) and also the reticle sometimes is not perfectly vertical in reference to the elevation of the scope. By plumbing the actual reticle instead of the scope body provides a better alignment IMO. Plus you can watch the reticle as you tighten to see if it’s moving while you torque the screws.




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[Mike D]

I use the plumb bob method. Once I’ve leveled the rifle in the vise I shine a light back through the scope objective to the eyepiece. This projects the reticle on the wall where I have a plumb bob hanging. Much easier to adjust and you can watch the actual reticle while tightening. There are a few problems with leveling the scope, hard to find a true flat surface (turrets are typically not perfectly flat) and also the reticle sometimes is not perfectly vertical in reference to the elevation of the scope. By plumbing the actual reticle instead of the scope body provides a better alignment IMO. Plus you can watch the reticle as you tighten to see if it’s moving while you torque the screws.




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This is the best way to ensure the reticle
Is level for all of the reasons stated in this post. Just have to make sure the receiver is level in whatever appliance you are using to hold it.


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[TX03RUBI]

Drop a plug bob against a wall. Setup 30-40 ft back with the rifle leveled facing the plumb bob. Hold a flashlight behind the ocular, and it will cast a reticle shadow against the wall. Align it with the plumb bob, then tighten the screws as mentioned above. I usually use 1/4 turn per screw, then move to the next screw diagonal from the one I just tightened. Use a torque wrench as well.

[TX03RUBI]

I use the plumb bob method. Once I’ve leveled the rifle in the vise I shine a light back through the scope objective to the eyepiece. This projects the reticle on the wall where I have a plumb bob hanging. Much easier to adjust and you can watch the actual reticle while tightening. There are a few problems with leveling the scope, hard to find a true flat surface (turrets are typically not perfectly flat) and also the reticle sometimes is not perfectly vertical in reference to the elevation of the scope. By plumbing the actual reticle instead of the scope body provides a better alignment IMO. Plus you can watch the reticle as you tighten to see if it’s moving while you torque the screws.




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You beat me to it while I was typing lol but this is the most accurate way I’ve found.

[sir shovelhands]

Plumb bob method with a flashlight through the objective is the most accurate. I've also just taped a sheet of paper to a wall and used a level to draw a straight line on it.

The problem with using a level on your turrets is that the manufacturer often doesn't align the reticle with the turrets squarely.

If you want some scope rings you don't have to worry about moving your scope, American rifle Co rings are single screw, but they're pricey.

[XR650RRider]

Only thing missing is how to align barrel and scope in perfect vertical alignment to the world. Receiver flats, ring tops are usually close enough, but some of those bubble levels aren't the best. I use the EXD Engineering vertical reticle instrument. It is two aligned v-blocks that when placed on barrel and scope objective, then you level the bubble level, the two cylinders are now aligned with each other vertically. I also use a level out of the wheeler professionally leveling kit that clamps on the barrel. You have the EXD tool level, then set the wheeler barrel level to match, then you can get EXD tool out of way, since it likes to fall off and has a narrow aperture for light source. Now with barrel and scope in vertical alignment, project your reticle on the wall with plumb line and you'll have the most aligned scope possible.

[kcnatural]

This is what I use. The only issue is it only works with one piece base weaver/1913 type rails not 2 piece.

I used feeler gauges before I got this.

[tdwinklr]

I use the plumb bob method. Once I’ve leveled the rifle in the vise I shine a light back through the scope objective to the eyepiece. This projects the reticle on the wall where I have a plumb bob hanging. Much easier to adjust and you can watch the actual reticle while tightening. There are a few problems with leveling the scope, hard to find a true flat surface (turrets are typically not perfectly flat) and also the reticle sometimes is not perfectly vertical in reference to the elevation of the scope. By plumbing the actual reticle instead of the scope body provides a better alignment IMO. Plus you can watch the reticle as you tighten to see if it’s moving while you torque the screws.




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I like that better, I just don't have a gun vise. Other options for that?

thx

[canny]

I like that better, I just don't have a gun vise. Other options for that?

thx

Just need to be able to level the gun. Before I got a vise I used a bipod


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[tdwinklr]

Got it aligned properly, at least in my eyes. Couldn't get a light to work through the scope clearly so I just clamped the gun level and drew a vertical line on the shop wall (using a level) and used that as my reference. Used a slower method of tightening the screws down, in an alternating fashion, as suggested by someone here. Had to do it twice because I was unsatisfied the first time and the scope moved again.
Using a feeler gauge helped a lot, never done that before, always just eye-balled each ring gap.
Very happy with this scope and the way it looks too.

Thanks guys!