Looking to upgrade to a stainless set up. Looking for feedback on which one and why. Precision rifle cases. No heavy amounts. 100-200 cases at a time max. If there’s a good one on sale that info helps too but I don’t want junk!
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Stainless Tumblers. Which one?
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Originally posted by M16 View PostI have this one and really like it.
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ars...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
How do you dry the cases once done?
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I've had the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series tumbler for several years now, and it works great. I use it for bulk pistol brass, and it comes out looking brand new. It wouldn't be any different with rifle brass. If you deprime prior to tumbling, it will get your primer pockets clean as well. As for capacity, I can tumble a gallon ziplock full of 9mm or 45 ACP brass, 5 lbs of pins, and water to the top. That comes in right under the weight threshold for the unit which is 30 lbs I believe. I know you only mentioned a few hundred cases, but it will handle a lot. As for accessories, you need the magnet Frankford Arsenal sells. It's only $12-15, and I can't imagine using this tumbler without it. I also have a trough and screen stainless media separator from Lyman which is nice. Lastly, I use the brass dryer from Frankford Arsenal. It's essentially a food dehydrator, and those may work as well. Gets the brass dry inside and out in no time. I still dry tumble all my precision rifle brass, typically due to the batch size. Stainless tumbling is a process that I find to be a bit of a pain for small lots of brass. The actual process is very simple. The whip is separating the media, keeping up with all the pins, making sure there aren't any pins stuck in your cases prior to sizing, washing, rinsing, drying, etc... For large batches of bulk brass, or really dirty range pick-ups, it makes sense to me. For a few hundred pieces of my meticulously cared for rifle brass, it doesn't. It does make some pretty cases though.
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Originally posted by trophy8 View PostThat’s the one I was looking at.
How do you dry the cases once done?Last edited by M16; 10-12-2021, 07:31 AM.
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Originally posted by Kong View PostBuy once cry once, heres the one I use and it’s head and shoulders above anything I’ve used previously. Their not cheap but they work great and you can do a lot of brass at once.
https://big-shot-tumblers.myshopify.com/
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I like quality stuff and clean a ton of brass so that may be more than you need but I’d say anything made currently would be a good choice.
You probably know already but most guys that shoot long range don’t like to SS pin thr brass, I do but I finish it off with a corn media before priming and seating the bullets. I’ve routinely seen as much as 13 pounds of seating pressure differential without media tumbling before seating the bullets and it shows up on paper. I know you shoot a lot so I’m simply giving you a heads up in case you didn’t know.
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Originally posted by Kong View PostI like quality stuff and clean a ton of brass so that may be more than you need but I’d say anything made currently would be a good choice.
You probably know already but most guys that shoot long range don’t like to SS pin thr brass, I do but I finish it off with a corn media before priming and seating the bullets. I’ve routinely seen as much as 13 pounds of seating pressure differential without media tumbling before seating the bullets and it shows up on paper. I know you shoot a lot so I’m simply giving you a heads up in case you didn’t know.
I use hornady one shot and don’t clean that off either and it works
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I’m not a scientist lol but the word is it’s due to removing the carbon and the lack of any residue left on the case the seating pressures change which in turn makes the bullet removal pressures change. Some call is cold friction but all I know for sure is personally I can most definitely see higher seating pressures from it and I can see it on paper. If that’s all you do you can use a different bushing getting the seating pressures lower if the chamber will allow for it but when I tried it I ran into issues so I changed up my routine. I rarely if ever SS pin my target stuff but when I do I use a media before seating everything and still use a media on all my other stuff after pinning them.
I’m not saying one way or another is your best option, simply giving you a heads up before you do something different and it changes your results.
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Originally posted by Kong View PostI’m not a scientist lol but the word is it’s due to removing the carbon and the lack of any residue left on the case the seating pressures change which in turn makes the bullet removal pressures change. Some call is cold friction but all I know for sure is personally I can most definitely see higher seating pressures from it and I can see it on paper. If that’s all you do you can use a different bushing getting the seating pressures lower if the chamber will allow for it but when I tried it I ran into issues so I changed up my routine. I rarely if ever SS pin my target stuff but when I do I use a media before seating everything and still use a media on all my other stuff after pinning them.
I’m not saying one way or another is your best option, simply giving you a heads up before you do something different and it changes your results.
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I’m not sure about good info but it’s what I’ve learned in the last few decades Let me know what you come up with, if your ever up this way we can put your shooting skills to the test on pigs at 800 yards while eating BBQ and drinking beer, that’s the beauty of back porch long range shooting
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Originally posted by Kong View PostI’m not sure about good info but it’s what I’ve learned in the last few decades Let me know what you come up with, if your ever up this way we can put your shooting skills to the test on pigs at 800 yards while eating BBQ and drinking beer, that’s the beauty of back porch long range shooting
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