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Old 04-06-2021, 07:28 PM   #1
Huntindad
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Default Tractor Hydrolics question

I have a Kubota L3400 tractor. been a good one, but I am new to tractors...so, need some guidence.

in the picture, I have fluid dripping from the top of the chrome piston. I've had it a while and this is the first issue I've had.

Is this something I can fix or is it a Kubota dealer fix?
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:32 PM   #2
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You need to pull it and replace the seals. Not easy to do if you don’t know what you are doing.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:32 PM   #3
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Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin View Post
Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking
Thatís your answer.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin View Post
Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking
Yep ^^^^^ Been a rancher with tractors all my life.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:39 PM   #6
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thanx guys.

I've not done any tractor work before, so It will go to local kubota folks to get both seals replaced.

thanx again.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:46 PM   #7
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Wait till that nasty fluid starts coming out your steering seals... lol. That wasn’t a cheap fix at ole Bills Tractor.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:49 PM   #8
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One other thing but I'm not familiar with Kubota tractors.. Tie the hoses up high to save all the hydraulic fluid you can.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:49 PM   #9
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You might try tighting them up and see if the leak stops. If it doesn't get a new o ring seal and change it out yourself. Less than a 5 minute job.

Last edited by brokeno; 04-06-2021 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 04-06-2021, 08:22 PM   #10
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Curious, does the chrome rod have some rough spots on it about 2-3" from the bucket end. It looks like it in the photo.
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Old 04-06-2021, 08:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by brokeno View Post
You might try tighting them up and see if the leak stops. If it doesn't get a new o ring seal and change it out yourself. Less than a 5 minute job.
Will look into that. Guess I will be Utubing stuff as well

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Curious, does the chrome rod have some rough spots on it about 2-3" from the bucket end. It looks like it in the photo.
don't think so. I think that is just junk picked up by the fluid going down the piston... Bit I will look at it closer.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:06 PM   #12
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Easy to do. Just pulle the pins on each end by removing the nut and bolt that keeps the pins in. Make sure you set the bucket flat before pulling the pins. Unscrew the lines on each end of the cylinder. Take the cylinder to a place like Hose Fast or google hydraulic cylinder rebuilds near you and you should be able to get the seals redone. Should cost about $150-$175 to get it done. The cylinder will come back filled with fluid and have plugs where the lines were screwed into it. Just pin it back in. Remove the plugs and put the lines back in and snug them up. Check your hydraulic levels and fill as needed.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:08 PM   #13
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I’ve done a pair of loader cylinders on a small 790 John Deere and it was tough getting the inner seal installed being so small. The larger 40hp ford I did was easier. Larger diameter and easier to flex and install. The large nuts inside the cylinder are loctite and torque pretty tight. You either need a super sturdy vice to hold the bucket end of the shaft or once you pull it out of the cylinder reinstall it on the bucket to hold it while trying to lessen the nut with a big cheater bar. Yes As recommended. Remove them and takem in to be replaced is less of a headache and pain. The seal could run about 100$ a set. It’s been awhile that I’ve done it.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:12 PM   #14
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You may check with Hudgins Company out near you.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:23 PM   #15
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I changed all my seals out just a few years ago. Not hard to do other than breaking them loose, but with a good pipe wrench and cheater bar gotíer done. And if you decide to do it yourself, have a bucket handy to catch the fluid inside the cylinders. Going back with new seals, I smeared a little grease on them and the shaft. Makes it a lot easier.
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Old 04-06-2021, 10:16 PM   #16
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Did mine on my L3130. Itís not that bad if you buy a seal installer tool. I would also suggest a
Good pick set to get old seals out. It bends the inner seal so you can drop it in easier. Parts can be had on messicks Kubota.

Seal tool https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-SET-Seal...765218&sr=8-11


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Old 04-06-2021, 10:27 PM   #17
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I recently bought a place with a Kubota L2800. I too don't know squat about tractors. Started it up Saturday for the first time as it had been sitting a while. While sitting and letting it idle, I raised and lowered the front and loader and then noticed that is started leaking in the same place as the OP.

Came back home and did some Googling and found a video on Youtube. Looks like the hardest part will be to remove the loader. A set of new seals costs about $80 for about $2 worth of seals. A spanner wrench will be needed for the project.

Figured I better start learning how to do this stuff myself instead of relying on a shop.
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Old 04-06-2021, 11:07 PM   #18
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Replaced them not long ago on my Father's L3400. If you do it yourself make sure you lay everything out as you take it apart so you know how it will go back together, and no one moves them. Some of the seals are a pain to get back in but it can be done. Good luck and it is not that hard to do.
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Old 04-07-2021, 12:17 AM   #19
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Changing those seals are very easy, there are many YouTube videos that will walk you through it step by step.

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Old 04-07-2021, 08:59 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin View Post
Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking
When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?
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Old 04-07-2021, 09:34 AM   #21
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Not a five minute job, some can be a bugger to take apart. Seals are in the threaded nut piece on the end of the cylinder that seal around the chrome shaft.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:21 AM   #22
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After watching a video about removing the cylinders and how to pull/replace the seals and what tools are required...

I think I will pull the cylinders and look to see if a hydrolic shop or Kubota can do the R & R on the seals.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:38 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Britches View Post
When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?
Could be different issues. There are seals in the cylinder itself. Rod gland seals and piston seals. They can be tricky and unless you have some tools you might be better off to take to a local hydraulic shop.

Hoses leaking are just a matter of taking those off and having them remade somewhere. Now if you have Oring face seal fittings depends on what tractor brand etc. You may have a bad oring in the adapter. You can take the hose loose and see if your adapter has a flat face with an oring in it. If so it may just need replacing.

Tell tell sing of oring being bad is if fluid is leaking around the nut where the hose is connected to the adapter. Its either loose or oring is bad if its ORFS.

If hoses is leaking anywhere around the crimp or rubber area then hose will need to be remade.



OP problem is bad rod gland seals in his cylinder. But since he is there he needs to replace rod gland seals and piston seals. On both cylinders. My suggestion is go ahead and pull lift cylinders and tilt. Will save yourself some money in hydraulic fluid by doing it now vs later. Nowdays when a newer tractor starts leaking it wont be long and they will all start to leak. But at minimum he needs to do both tilt cylinders now.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:40 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin View Post
Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking
Good advice about doing both at the same time.

PS, the picture you're using as your avatar is just precious!
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:50 AM   #25
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Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.
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Old 04-07-2021, 11:06 AM   #26
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Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.
So one of 2 issues. Hoses is bad at the crimp. Or depending on it its ORFS you may need to just replace the oring at the nut. where the hose connects to the adapter. Most of the newer equipment is ORFS. the older JIC is a metal to metal 37deg taper. That generally doesnt ever leak if it does you can get a wrench on it and snug it up a little tighter.

Also if you take the adpater out there is an oring under the adapter where it screws into the cylinder on most tractors if its Oring boss or metric. you might replace it also but its not that common of an issue.

You can find a ORFS oring kit at your local hardware or tractor dealer for usually 20 bucks its a good idea to keep them around. They are a smaller cross section than most standard orings so you need the actual ORFS kit to get the right ones.
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Old 04-07-2021, 12:22 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Arrowslinger1 View Post
You may check with Hudgins Company out near you.
Called both Hudgins and Kubota. Kubota was way higher than Hudgins. And, Hudgins is a lot closer. thanx for the heads up

Quote:
Originally Posted by dclifton View Post
Could be different issues. There are seals in the cylinder itself. Rod gland seals and piston seals. They can be tricky and unless you have some tools you might be better off to take to a local hydraulic shop.

Hoses leaking are just a matter of taking those off and having them remade somewhere. Now if you have Oring face seal fittings depends on what tractor brand etc. You may have a bad oring in the adapter. You can take the hose loose and see if your adapter has a flat face with an oring in it. If so it may just need replacing.

Tell tell sing of oring being bad is if fluid is leaking around the nut where the hose is connected to the adapter. Its either loose or oring is bad if its ORFS.

If hoses is leaking anywhere around the crimp or rubber area then hose will need to be remade.



OP problem is bad rod gland seals in his cylinder. But since he is there he needs to replace rod gland seals and piston seals. On both cylinders. My suggestion is go ahead and pull lift cylinders and tilt. Will save yourself some money in hydraulic fluid by doing it now vs later. Nowdays when a newer tractor starts leaking it wont be long and they will all start to leak. But at minimum he needs to do both tilt cylinders now.
Are you saying to pull all 4 cylinders the lift and tilt? I was gonna pull the 2 tilt( operates the bucket) . Tractor has about 225 hours(2007 model)
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Old 04-07-2021, 01:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntindad View Post
After watching a video about removing the cylinders and how to pull/replace the seals and what tools are required...

I think I will pull the cylinders and look to see if a hydrolic shop or Kubota can do the R & R on the seals.

Iíve had about 15 forklifts over the years, and I quit replacing seals a long time ago. A good independent hydraulic shop is the way to go.


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Old 04-07-2021, 01:45 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Huntindad View Post
Called both Hudgins and Kubota. Kubota was way higher than Hudgins. And, Hudgins is a lot closer. thanx for the heads up



Are you saying to pull all 4 cylinders the lift and tilt? I was gonna pull the 2 tilt( operates the bucket) . Tractor has about 225 hours(2007 model)
I would do the 2 tilts for sure. But i can almost bet you money the lift cylinders will start leaking soon. Up to you take the 2 to start with and find you a local shop and see how they do.
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:32 PM   #30
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Had one cylinder on bucket start leaking. Friend of mine came out and took it apart. Took the old seals to a shop near him. Came back and put it back together. Probably less than a week later, the other side went out. After watching my buddy do the first one, I had no trouble doing the second one. Then, couple weeks later, the lift seals went out on one side. Thatís when I changed both at same time. Wasnít going to wait for the second one to go out!!!
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:50 PM   #31
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If you're near tomball PM me. My wife's company may offer TBH discounts

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Old 04-07-2021, 05:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Britches View Post
When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?
I was referring to the cylinder for the OP. In your case I try to tighten them up first. If that doesn't work just pull the line off and have a new one made. I go to NAPA auto parts for new hydraulic lines. Just bring in the old one and they will make one to match. Only takes them a few minutes and I'm on my way.
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Old 04-07-2021, 09:21 PM   #33
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I pulled the left side hydrolic cylinder and you could see a a bad tear in the seal.

Other side was dry as dust... gonna leave that one alone. I musta hit the seal with a cedar limb or something.

gonna take it to a local hydraulic shop in the morning.

thanx for all the suggestions...ideas and advice. been educational.
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Old 04-07-2021, 09:28 PM   #34
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Let us know what they charge. Hope you donít get sticker shock!!!
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Old 04-07-2021, 09:36 PM   #35
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will do. should be reasonable. we'll see.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:02 PM   #36
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The guy I uae charges $70 on average.
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Old 04-12-2021, 10:18 PM   #37
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Let us know what they charge. Hope you donít get sticker shock!!!
Went and picked up the cylinder today. Pretty pricey I thought 191.00 for one cylinder.

25 of that was shop supplies and shipping(guess they had to order parts)

little more expensive than I thought it would be from a hydrolic shop.

Labor was 115. With only 22 hours on it, figured I'd just take the bad one in.
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Old 04-12-2021, 10:26 PM   #38
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question fro the more experienced tractor folks.

outside of hittin a seal with a cedar tree limb and damagined it...what kind of life expectancy could one expect under nornamal use.
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Old 04-12-2021, 11:22 PM   #39
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Quote:
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question fro the more experienced tractor folks.

outside of hittin a seal with a cedar tree limb and damagined it...what kind of life expectancy could one expect under nornamal use.
Impossible question to answer. And hate to answer your bubble but thatís the wiper seal on outside that you tore. I suspect the other cylinder will go out soon. Unfortunately they just dry out over time from lack of use siting is usually worse on them then being used.
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Old 04-13-2021, 07:05 AM   #40
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My bad...not 22 hours on it...225 hours.
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Old 04-13-2021, 07:25 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntindad View Post
question fro the more experienced tractor folks.

outside of hittin a seal with a cedar tree limb and damagined it...what kind of life expectancy could one expect under nornamal use.

I have same tractor with around 1000 hours in it. I donít think Iíve had to fix the same cylinder more than once yet, if that helps any.

I love Kubotaís hydraulics and donít sweat having cylinders fixed once in a while.


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Old 04-13-2021, 07:36 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Britches View Post
Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.
Get a wrench and try tightening it up. Usually that will fix it. If it does not run in and get a hose made at your local Napa, oreillies etc. Just google hydraulic hose places near you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale Moser View Post
Iíve had about 15 forklifts over the years, and I quit replacing seals a long time ago. A good independent hydraulic shop is the way to go.


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Exactly right, hydraulic cylinders are a pain in the *** to deal with. We usually will fix dang near anything we can in house for as long as I can remember on all of our heavy equipment, tractors, dozer, grader, etc... And as long as I can remember we have always taken them in to be repaired. Less mess in the shop, quicker, and easier. And usually pretty cheap and the money is well spent letting some one else deal with it.
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Old 04-13-2021, 07:51 AM   #43
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Thanks, west!
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Old 04-13-2021, 08:17 AM   #44
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There is often trapped pressure in these cylinders, so it's always a good idea to cycle the handle that controls that cylinder when the engine is turned off. That should relieve any high pressure trapped in the cylinder. You don't want high pressure in your face when you break the fitting loose.
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Old 04-13-2021, 08:19 AM   #45
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If you have never replaced seals on a hydraulic cylinder, you might be better off taking the cylinder off, capping the end of the hose and taking the cylinder to a hydraulic shop. They will be able to rebuild the cylinder easily. Not sure what they charge to do so, but it's pretty easy to do, when you know how, so I would not think it would cost a lot.
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Old 04-13-2021, 08:34 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowslinger1 View Post
Easy to do. Just pulle the pins on each end by removing the nut and bolt that keeps the pins in. Make sure you set the bucket flat before pulling the pins. Unscrew the lines on each end of the cylinder. Take the cylinder to a place like Hose Fast or google hydraulic cylinder rebuilds near you and you should be able to get the seals redone. Should cost about $150-$175 to get it done. The cylinder will come back filled with fluid and have plugs where the lines were screwed into it. Just pin it back in. Remove the plugs and put the lines back in and snug them up. Check your hydraulic levels and fill as needed.
Well, it had duct tape over the line connections. Got it all greased up today and moved some dirt.

Will check the hydrolic levels tomorrow.
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