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Old 09-21-2020, 10:07 AM   #1
Tsig
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Default Broadhead sharpening

Whats everyone using to sharpen their broadheads? i just got the stay sharp jig and i am still trying to figure it out. i seen where some guys are using something similar to a kitchen knife sharpener. the one you hold and just run the blade through the V. anyone using this how well does it work.
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:10 AM   #2
wytex
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Crock sticks for me.
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Old 09-21-2020, 12:52 PM   #3
jds247
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I use a fine diamond stone, sand paper and a leather strop along with the stay sharp jig.. key is to not let the head get real dull.. I sharpen almost everything out of the package .
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:07 PM   #4
3D Guy
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I had a buddy that used a whet stone.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:25 PM   #5
sp-bow
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Ranch fairy has a video using the stay sharp.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:11 PM   #6
kingranch
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I use the white wet stone
Soak in water for 15 mins then carefully run bh down it
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:14 PM   #7
TexasArchery_27
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I use an accusharp and a 10” piece of an old belt. I’ve tried the stay sharp guide with sandpaper and honing compound. Broadheads got real shiny, but not very sharp!
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Old 09-22-2020, 12:15 AM   #8
Loneaggie
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I use a stay sharp with 1000 and 3000 sandpaper and finally on 8000 whetstone. Can get decent heads sharp enough to be scary to put on arrows.
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Old 09-22-2020, 05:12 AM   #9
ptaylortx
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Free hand with a Work Sharp
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Old 09-22-2020, 07:09 AM   #10
Tsig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasArchery_27 View Post
I use an accusharp and a 10Ē piece of an old belt. Iíve tried the stay sharp guide with sandpaper and honing compound. Broadheads got real shiny, but not very sharp!
Exactly the problem I am having. Broadheads get really shiny but aren't very sharp.
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Old 09-22-2020, 07:33 AM   #11
hpdrifter
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guess my "old timer" will show.
Just used the finest mill file I could find.
Leather strop charged with red rouge.
Then get a polished chrome smooth shank screw driver, like a new Klein.
Use it like a steel. Use pressure and only a few strokes. Any more it rolls the edge.

Couldn't use the kitchen type on a zwickey, it's double layer and will create a hump where the metals overlap.
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Old 09-25-2020, 10:07 PM   #12
Phorizt
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I use a Stay Sharp jig and use them on wetstones. I've got both the grey and black guides for different broad heads. I have 2 stones I use and go 400, 1000, 6000(the stones are 400/1000 and 1000/6000). They get stupid sharp and I have a good sized scare on my hand as proof from the first head I sharpened.
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Old 09-27-2020, 12:06 PM   #13
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I have the Iron Will and have several I practice with and one that was run through an elk that all need sharpened. Just bought the Stay Sharp with the diamond blades. Looking forward to sharpening these heads and getting them back in the line up.

I watched the Ranch Fairy video, highly recommend everyone go watch that. The strop demonstration on a brand new Iron Will was really impressive. In addition to the Stay Sharp, I also bought a paddle strop...and I was doing so good on reducing my spending.

Ranch Fairy video:

https://youtu.be/X0AN3L02ExY

Last edited by JES; 09-27-2020 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:10 PM   #14
ctom87
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Good stuff, JES. Looks like I need a strop to put a fresh edge on some new broadheads. Glad I read up on this thread.
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:04 PM   #15
Low Fence
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I’ve had a stay sharp for years. Mine sucks. It will polish the fire out of one, but it’s 4x duller

I use diamond stone and just go by hand. It took me years to perfect it, but I got it down now and finish with leather. Insanely sharp
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:37 PM   #16
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Depends on what kind of broadheads. If itís a 2 blade or a 2 blade with bleeders, I use the wooden Lansky block with the ceramic sticks at 25*. Gets them past shaving sharp in no time.




3 blades I use a diamond stone and ceramic rods.

I had a staysharp once too, and have the same complaint as others. Polished it real nice, wonít cut paper. But I canít use a Set Angle sharpening setup worth a crap either, so it might just be me.


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Old 09-28-2020, 07:25 AM   #17
MnM
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I am currently using a stay sharp for the 4 blade Magnus ser razor also using the Innovative guide video. I’m able to shave hair, but don’t like lining up the different blade lengths from the jig. I’m tempted to change broadhead to a VPA 3 blade for simplicity. Anyone one else in the same boat as me?
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Old 09-28-2020, 07:26 AM   #18
Tsig
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Well I finally figured out the stay sharp trick. What all these youtube videos don't tell you is that you need to start with a 320 and spend a lot of time. It takes roughly 15-20 min with the 320 from there you move on to 400 and so forth. I do recommend finishing with a strop. I went from having dull shiny heads to stupid sharp shiny heads.
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Old 09-28-2020, 07:51 AM   #19
quackadikt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM View Post
I am currently using a stay sharp for the 4 blade Magnus ser razor also using the Innovative guide video. Iím able to shave hair, but donít like lining up the different blade lengths from the jig. Iím tempted to change broadhead to a VPA 3 blade for simplicity. Anyone one else in the same boat as me?

Those crock sticks I posted will get a Magnus sharp in no time.


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Old 09-28-2020, 08:31 AM   #20
sir shovelhands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsig View Post
Well I finally figured out the stay sharp trick. What all these youtube videos don't tell you is that you need to start with a 320 and spend a lot of time. It takes roughly 15-20 min with the 320 from there you move on to 400 and so forth. I do recommend finishing with a strop. I went from having dull shiny heads to stupid sharp shiny heads.
The duller the blade, the coarser the grit you should start with. My knives that still have somewhat of an edge I'll start with 600 and finish with 1500. The blunt ones I start at 120 and work up to 320, 600, 1500.
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Old 09-28-2020, 08:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jds247 View Post
I use a fine diamond stone, sand paper and a leather strop along with the stay sharp jig.. key is to not let the head get real dull.. I sharpen almost everything out of the package .
This for me...minus the sand paper...seems redundant...and minus stay sharp jig (even though Inhave one and have used it). I finger my blades to feel the edge on the stone. I back blade wipe on my pants to deburr some between strokes. I mounted a fine diamond and screwed leather to a 2x4x3’ and it handles nicely having everything consolidated. 10 strokes. Flip. 10 strokes, flip. 5 strokes etc. 3 strokes etc. 1 stroke etc. 1 stroke etc. Stroke lighter. Stroke even lighter. Etc.

I really struggled for a long while sharpening until a late night last year when I got the idea to back blade on the fine stone. Hairs started popping afterwards and I almost shaved my arm bald...I was so excited. Just a few light passes and boom. It really helps on maintaining too...I can simply back blade a few time on a dull knife or broadhead and its back in business. Ive gotten to where I only forward blade to recondition a dull blade.

Sharpie your edge to see that your actually hitting the bevel and edge.

Glad you found something that works Tsig. I hope the critters bleed profusely and I see your LDPs.

Last edited by Briar Friar; 09-28-2020 at 08:53 AM. Reason: FingerBladeSpake
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Old 09-29-2020, 02:40 AM   #22
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I got a stay sharp guide, grey, a few weeks ago. Loved it for the main blade on the Magnus Stinger. Hated it for the the bleeders, they kept moving on me.

Make sure you draw a line on the broad head next to the guide. If your blade moves you can readjust so you keep the same angle.

Yes you need to start at a 220/320 grit and work your way up. Since you are starting with a new angle for your edge you have to start very coarse, and work the metal down evenly on both sides. Definitely need to use a sharpie to prove that you are actually reshaping the entire edge. It took me about about 15 minutes on 220, 10 strokes up and down on both sides till all the sharpie was off. Reapply the sharpie several times to make sure. After the sharpie was gone I moved to 800 then 1500 then 2500 then a strop. Took about and hour or hour and fifteen minutes per broad head. They are scary sharp now.

Last edited by HelmCrusher; 09-29-2020 at 02:46 AM. Reason: added detail and clarification
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Old 09-29-2020, 06:46 AM   #23
lovemylegacy
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Lansky
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Old 09-29-2020, 09:14 AM   #24
Low Fence
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.... yeah, I’m not working an hour-2 hours to sharpen a blade. I can get new for $3. I can hand sharpen a moderately sharp to satisfaction in 5 minutes
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Old 09-29-2020, 10:14 AM   #25
Tsig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Fence View Post
.... yeah, Iím not working an hour-2 hours to sharpen a blade. I can get new for $3. I can hand sharpen a moderately sharp to satisfaction in 5 minutes


.... lol where are these 3$ broadheaads at
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:33 AM   #26
Low Fence
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Replaceable blades. Came out in the early 80’s

Or muzzys on sale for $9 a 3 pk
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Old 09-29-2020, 08:50 PM   #27
IbeHuntn
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Diamond stones and leather. I shoot 3 blade VPAís so I just them flat on the stones and go to work


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Old 09-29-2020, 09:12 PM   #28
wdtorque
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Used this at lunch yesterday. Almost and sharper will work. Keep a consistent angle and use a sharpy on the edge to see your angle if needed. Donít sharpen anything after 1 brown water. Just sayin....


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Old 09-30-2020, 08:26 AM   #29
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I would recommend getting a set of sharpening stones, learning how to make a good edge. This is a rather expensive hobby, but if you are interested, you can always try. Well, or alternatively, find someone who is sharpening nearby.
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:01 PM   #30
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Purchased a strop today because of this thread.

Last night I took my 3000 and 8000 whetstone and ran one of my new, unused broadheads across it. I was not sure if I needed to sharpen something straight from the factory.

Well, I only did one and I compared it to one that I didn't touch. It was hard to tell a difference, but I actually think after 8000, I may have slightly dulled the broadhead I worked on. The difference may have been negligable.

I took that same broadhead and ran it across the coarse leather with a compound 10 times on each side. I then did it 15 times on each side on the fine side of the strop.

I could definitely tell a difference after using the strop. I now have a mirror like finish on my broadheads and they are now sharper than the factory finish they came with.
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:49 PM   #31
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Hand sharpened and stroped SlickTrick. Both big bones in shoulder... STILL razor sharp
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