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Any tundra lift/level experts here?

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    Any tundra lift/level experts here?

    Seems like every time I turn around in seeing new stuff or new brands. Can’t hardly keep up with what is considered the best or most practical.

    So, thought I’d ask here.

    For starters, I don’t want to go past 3” for a few reasons. Mainly, I don’t want to have to buy big tires to fit the look of the lift. Mo money, mo gas. Also, I don’t want to get the cv joint angle too steep. Main thing I want to do is make it level. But, not sure what the best option is to go that route. There is the least expensive spacer route but I’ve read they aren’t the best for off road. Then the 2.5” coil over in the front to lift/level it out. Then the 3/1 suspension lift that includes the back as well. I do tow with my truck and it does r take much to squat the back end so no idea how that affects doing anything on the back end.

    My truck makes it off road several times a year. Mountains in Colorado, rough dirt/mud roads in Kansas, fields and pastures, and the occasional river bottom for ducks. I don’t abuse it. I don’t drive it hard. And I don’t play in it. But I’m also not afraid to put it in rough situations within reason and safely for myself and the truck.

    So, with all that being said, I’d like to hear from anyone that’s done a similar lift/level kit and see if anyone can help point me the right directions. I was going to do this in my last truck and never got around to it. I tended to keep trucks for 5-7 years and 200k miles so if I’m gonna do it, I just as well do it now while she’s new and not sink money in after she’s older.


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    #2
    I put a leveling kit on my ‘19 Tundra. It’s got the 2.5” kit and I’m running 275/70/18 BFG AT. I feel it’s a good middle ground of nice looking with some good clearance without getting too big and kill my mileage. (Although it’s already terrible)

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      #3
      Not exactly what you’re looking for but lifting it won’t hurt anything. My Tundra spends a ton of time off-road, pretty much all I use it for anymore, lease and beach. I have had the lift on for 100k+ miles, and haven’t had any sort of issues. I’m running a 4.5” BDS lift. Also I went with 35s and it didn’t significantly decrease gas mileage, if anything I lost a half mpg or so. That said if not wanting to lift it I would go 2.5” coil over.

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        #4
        I had spacers on my 1794 from the factory rode those for about 10k just stiff overall… honestly if you want the best king coil-overs or icon coilovers. I went with the kings set them about 2.5 “ and it was level. You can also buy and front diff drop spacers kit easy to install yourself or while your getting the level. Some say you don’t need it unless you go 3” but it’s cheap insurance and not hard to install. The kings were really nice rode great on rode and off deer lease ranch roads, beach etc. I’ve hear really good reviews from toytec as well but ultimately king has the history and I loved them. I did nothing to the back and put a little bigger tire on it when it was time to replace the factory ones. It all
        Just depends on how much you wanna spend and what your looking for. My recommendation is the coilovers can’t beat the ride. Also rci for from skid plates as well great product. I put about 70 on the kings before I traded it in

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          #5
          Any tundra lift/level experts here?

          ADS, King, Fox or Icon coilovers and rear shocks with either a full old man emu leaf pack or Deaver Expedition pack in the rear. Icon add a leaf pack is also a good cheaper option. It will ride like a dream and still handle loads well with each of these. If you go extended travel in front then you definitely need aftermarket UCA. I’d go with JBA. If not extended travel then don’t need UCA but I would recommend them.


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          Last edited by DedDucks; 08-19-2021, 06:59 PM.

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            #6
            I did the rough country 2.5/1 lift on my ‘19 that was a strut replacement with off-road struts. Rode great and maintained a little rake to the front in case I was pulling my travel trailer. $700 installed in ‘19.

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              #7
              Originally posted by DedDucks View Post
              ADS, King, Fix or Icon coilovers and rear shocks with either a full old man emu leaf pack or Deaver Expedition pack in the rear. Icon add a leaf pack is also a good cheaper option. It will ride like a dream and still handle loads well with each of these. If you go extended travel in front then you definitely need aftermarket UCA. I’d go with JBA. If not extended travel then don’t need UCA but I would recommend them.


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              You lost me at extended travel and UCA. I’m about as dumb on lifts and suspension as Biden is on foreign policy.


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              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by DedDucks View Post
                ADS, King, Fix or Icon coilovers and rear shocks with either a full old man emu leaf pack or Deaver Expedition pack in the rear. Icon add a leaf pack is also a good cheaper option. It will ride like a dream and still handle loads well with each of these. If you go extended travel in front then you definitely need aftermarket UCA. I’d go with JBA. If not extended travel then don’t need UCA but I would recommend them.


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                Any estimate on coil overs and upgraded rear suspension?


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                  #9
                  Originally posted by DapperDan View Post
                  Any estimate on coil overs and upgraded rear suspension?


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                  $2k to $2500 and up depending what options on coilovers. Check out an Icon stage 2 setup. I think that would likely give all you need and will perform awesome.


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                    #10
                    Get your wife to lift it! And take pictures!

                    Sorry, couldn’t resist!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I went with OME 3” lift in front, full OME rear leaf pack in rear, SPC UCA’s, front diff drop and 35” Toyo M/T’s. I’m happy with it.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by CabezaBlanca View Post
                        Get your wife to lift it! And take pictures!

                        Sorry, couldn’t resist!

                        Lololololol


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                        Comment


                          #13
                          So thing to remember with shocks is they wear out and you have to replace or rebuild them. So about to rebuild the kings on my wife’s 4runner. It’s 1100 bucks to have them rebuilt if you pull them off.

                          Set of cheap bilsteins costs half that new. Unless you actually need heavy duty Coilovers and are going to seriously wheel the thing stick with bilsteing 5100s front and 5160 rears.

                          Oooooor if you are going to go fast get ADS coilovers and the ads triple bypasses in the rEar with a set of deaver k37s. I have had kings, icon, and now ADS and they are the best from a durability and comfort standpoint when you daily drive in my opinion.

                          Icons are digressive valved and I thought they road pretty stiff. Kings are progressive valved and rode pretty good with a 600 lbs spring but crappy with a 700 lbs spring. I had to make them super stiff to not go through the spring when I was being rowdy. But the ads with a 700 are like buttah. And the rear bypasses.... ohhhh those bypasses.

                          If you lift get you really need new upper control arms probably get JBA ball joint ones so you don’t have to mess with piling uniball etc. I have MCM fab uniball and they actually align right unlike icon and total chaos (ask em how I know). Don’t buy the billet upper control arms from camburg or icon either. While you can align them, galvanic corrosion is a very real thing (ask me how I know). Oh and take it to a Good alignment shop and tell them what specs you want. Let me know and I’ll get them for you. DO NOT LET THEM SAY OH ITS IN THE GREEN!!! You will be buying new front tires in no time.

                          Oh and don’t do a block in the back whatever you do. Do lift shackles. Tundras have super long leaf springs and as it is they de-arch just stock over time. With a block they will be flat in a year or two and you get a drive line shudder when you accelerate. Regardless you will probably need a diff drop. If you don’t have one you will get shudder when you tow much of anything and are accelerating.

                          Ummm. That’s all I can think of.

                          Oh and tires. Don’t go bigger than 35s and choose your offset carefully. Unless you are super careful you will have to cut your body mount so the tires clear it at full lock. And trim the skid plate.

                          Ok that’s all I got. I’ll help you install stuff if you want to do it and we can work out a time.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Bilstein 5100s on medium setting, ride on stock rims and 295s. Really improved ride and gained a few inches of clearance. Have 100k on my 19’ tundra, been great so far.

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                              #15
                              I went with fox performance 2.0 front coil overs and rear shocks. The coils lifted the front 2 inches and I lifted the rear 1 inch with toytec lift shackles. It’s been smooth and I don’t have to worry about hitting anything at speed. That height you don’t mess up the traction control, speedometer, or need a differential drop. For what you will be doing you don’t have to have the 2.5 shocks.

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