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School me on diesel trucks

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    #31
    Originally posted by Nova View Post
    I think it sounds like a good deal if the truck is solid. As I said above, the fuel pumps can be a problem but the 10k repair comes when your fuel pump trashes your fuel rails and injectors. They make a fuel rerouting kit that prevents that from happening and I think it is good insurance.

    For that price i'll bet you could buy it and flip it.

    What does a "fuel rerouting kit" cost, installed? That prevents it from trashing the fuel rails and injectors? Is this a Ford item, or aftermarket?

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      #32
      Originally posted by Keith View Post
      I did a search on the high pressure fuel pump and it said they typically last about 100k miles. Is that right?? That is crazy to expect a $8,000 to $12,000 repair every 5 years!

      Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
      Take this with a grain of salt because I dont even have a 6.7 but I do listen to a bunch of diesel podcasts that gets a bunch of diesel shops input on what issues trucks have, why it happens and then convienently tell you how they have a product to solve for said issue. Based on what I have heard the majority of fuel pumps that they open up have rust spots in it due to water in the fuel. Yes there is also a lubricity issue but the main issue is people getting bad fuel that has too much water in it that the seperator can not catch. Rust spots start wearing into the material of the pump and shavings go down stream tearing everything up. I have not heard anyone say that they had to replace one at 100k just do to normal wear and tear, there was always an underlying issue.

      I do strongly suggest the hotshot sectret EDT every fill up. Cheap insurance in the long run.

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        #33
        Fuel mileage… in a diesel? They are meant to pull so you just get a drag-up tank and fill them up when they get low! If you want mileage get a VW. ;-)

        Also, if you are running considerably larger tires then the gears need to match accordingly!

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          #34
          Originally posted by Keith View Post
          What does a "fuel rerouting kit" cost, installed? That prevents it from trashing the fuel rails and injectors? Is this a Ford item, or aftermarket?


          Here you go sir. Like Nova said, it is good insurance.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Keith View Post
            I did a search on the high pressure fuel pump and it said they typically last about 100k miles. Is that right?? That is crazy to expect a $8,000 to $12,000 repair every 5 years!

            Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
            I know several folks with well over 100k that have never had to replace the pump. My bil is pushing 230k and has never had 1 issue. He deleted around 100k.
            I have 86k on my 16. Not one issue. All stock.
            Last edited by Rubi513; 07-30-2021, 04:52 PM.

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              #36
              Originally posted by S-3 Ranch View Post
              Sounds about right!

              My f350 @101,000 “ out of warranty “ had a/c problem I about had a heart attack when they told me they needed to basically remove the cabin to fix the problem, and I should replace A-X

              While the cabin was off , spent $397.78 to recharge it and drove it

              To the dealership for a $24000 trade in , $9000 ac repair and death wobble will have me thinking twice about a Ford and a diesel again
              What causes the "death wobble"? I have seen it mentioned here and have seen videos of Ford's that do it, but what causes it to happen? What is the fix, or is there one? Is there anything I can do on a test drive that would make it go into the death wobble? I think it only happens from time to time, even on trucks that are prone to it, yet others never seem to have that issue.

              Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

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                #37
                Going to look at it in the morning. I know to check for leaks, rust, body and frame damage and milky oil. Anything specific I need to check on a Ford 6.7?

                Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Bucknaked View Post
                  Fuel mileage… in a diesel? They are meant to pull so you just get a drag-up tank and fill them up when they get low! If you want mileage get a VW. ;-)

                  Also, if you are running considerably larger tires then the gears need to match accordingly!
                  Verifying his claimed fuel mileage is more to see if the guy is lying. If he's lying about that, he's probably lying about the rest of the truck.

                  Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

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                    #39
                    Looks like a nice truck. 26k is a great deal if it’s clean, a steal if it’s clean and has a lot of options.

                    18 might be doable unloaded all highway but kinda doubt it with the wheels/tires on there.

                    I don’t care to calculate mileage anymore but I get 15/16 unloaded mostly highway with 37s.

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                      #40
                      School me on diesel trucks

                      Originally posted by Keith View Post
                      Verifying his claimed fuel mileage is more to see if the guy is lying. If he's lying about that, he's probably lying about the rest of the truck.

                      Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

                      Easy there Keith, lying about fuel mileage is second up to lying about what someone paid for a vehicle. (For some) [emoji16]
                      I wouldn’t base your decision on that alone.

                      Get it up to speed, hit reset on the instant miles per gallon then drive it about 10 miles at speed, no stops and you’ll know a round about figure for mileage (minus regens).

                      What to look for offhand- there are 2 coolant systems- 2 reservoirs- that water doesn’t touch each other -as in completely separate. They will most likely look like pond water on each one. If they are green or orange in color, kudos to the owner for actually changing them out.

                      Radiator leaks- the frame flexes and causes the radiator to crack on SOME of these trucks, not all. But if so there will be soil spots below each side of the radiator, it’s the sides that crack, not the core.

                      Body mounts, not too expensive to replace- but not cheap either. There are 8-10 sets if I remember correctly, it’s the ones at the front of the cab and under front seats that like to crumble. Easy to spot, lack of cushions where they belong.

                      To get a truck to death wobble you need to drive over some bumpy pavement at speed, purposely hit bumps with one tire but not both. That should bring it on.
                      My 2011 never had it, but my 19 felt loosely goosy until I had it’s recall done- which feels to have cured it.

                      Check for smells in cab, my neighbor had a 14 that would not quit leaking water on passenger side inside cab. He chased it for years then finally gave up and traded it for a GMC. It evidently stunk on the passenger side near the floorboard.

                      I can’t dream up anything else offhand that hasn’t already been covered. I’ll post before you leave if I do.


                      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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                        #41
                        Thanks for the tips everyone, I am going to look at it tomorrow morning. If you think of anything else I should check or be aware of, please post it. I don't want to make an expensive mistake.

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                          #42
                          I’m not gonna ad much, since so much has already been said, but I will say this. The 6.7 Scorpion is one of the most reliable/solid diesel engines Ford has produced (sorry 7.3 guys). By 2014, the few minor issues that they did have, were lined out. Of the 6.7’s, I’ve had a 12, 14, 17, and a 19….not a single issue with any of them. Keep the fuel filters replaced and keep a spare set in the truck with you. When you start to hear a whining noise coming from under the drivers seat/side of the truck, change the filters right then. If not, it’ll leave you sitting on the side of the road. The factory shocks on these trucks sucked and still do. Especially the rears. Change them out with a quality shock. The paint that FoMo used on the frame/underside of these trucks sucked. Don’t be surprised to see some surface rust on drive line components, axles, etc….. it’s normal. Even a new truck with 10,000 miles on it would already have some surface rust on the U-joints.
                          The truck is out of warranty. Delete it. Get a good programer that will “learn” your transmission and TC. Not a single canned tune. Get a 4”-5” turbo back stainless exhaust. Even with straight pipe and nothing else the truck won’t be very loud. At a stop light it’s going to sound like a giant hair dryer. Not much different when you take off either.

                          That truck should have an E-locker with 3.31 gears, unless special ordered differently. Those gears may seem high, but tow with it and you’ll see that they aren’t. My 14 had 22” wheels with 40” tires and I pulled a triple axle trailer w/ 35ft Donzi with it all over the country. It never missed a beat. Don’t let anyone tell you it needs to be regeared to haul anything it’s capable of stopping.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by Keith View Post
                            What causes the "death wobble"? I have seen it mentioned here and have seen videos of Ford's that do it, but what causes it to happen? What is the fix, or is there one? Is there anything I can do on a test drive that would make it go into the death wobble? I think it only happens from time to time, even on trucks that are prone to it, yet others never seem to have that issue.

                            Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
                            Death wobble is a very opinionated sunject. I think it is a track bar and bushing issue both of which are taken care of by an aftermarket track bar. Caster is also a big issue. I have heard from several reputable shops that they get stock trucks right off the dealership lot that are out of spec for the caster. People will say just add a dual stabilizer which can/might take care of the issue but you are treating the symptoms not the disease IMO.

                            With all of that said I have heard people claim they replaces all the moving joints and bushings including the track bar, made sure their caster was perfect and added a dual stablizer and the truck still has death wobble. I wouldnt let it deter me from buying a truck because I have gotten rid of my death wobble and helped fix several of my other friends trucks also.

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                              #44
                              Dang Kieth, asking all the questions that have widely varying, sometimes very politicized answers!

                              Let us know how the test drive went.

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                                #45
                                Well did we end up with a new truck?

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