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    Protecting Exterior Cedar Siding Questions

    Need some advice on prepping, staining or painting and protecting Cedar tongue and groove siding.

    I am building a small off the grid cabin in Rocksprings. I have a thread here for the complete build: https://discussions.texasbowhunter.c...d.php?t=701156


    Behind the exterior siding is plywood covered with tyveck.

    I am thinking ahead to the exterior siding. I already have all the cedar tongue and groove siding. Some of it is grayed a bit and some looks brand new (i have had it for almost a year now covered at the build site. this is fine i think because I want it to be a dark grey color with no wood grain showing. My first thought was to use an exterior paint, possibly oil based to seal and color the wood.

    I am now thinking that using a solid stain would be better because Cedar, as some people have told me, needs to breathe.

    So here is my ask's:

    1) What should I use Paint or Stain.
    2) Do I need to use a primer or stain prohibitor because of the cedar resins or because it is really dry (aged) these is no need.
    3) Should I use a sealer before or after?
    4) What should I do to prep the wood before installing. (sand outside facing only or both sides, etc)

    Any advice you all can give me that will help this siding last longer the better.

    thanks!!!

    #2
    I use FLOOD stain in Cedar color for all of the cedar on my house.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Palmetto View Post
      I use FLOOD stain in Cedar color for all of the cedar on my house.
      What do you do to prep the Cedar?

      Should I sand it and then use a stain blocker before I stain it or just stain and be done with it?

      Comment


        #4
        Ready Seal if you want to stain it. just make sure it is clean and dry. Will need to restain in 5-8 years. Really good quality paint job would last longer.

        Comment


          #5
          People typically use stain if they want more of the grain to show, whether it’s solid or semitransparent. Solid stain will last longer. No need for primer if you stain because stain needs to penetrate the wood. Power wash clean and let it dry. Stain typically last 3-5 years. Prime and paint will last longer but you take away from the look of the wood by putting on a coating that builds and fills in some of the grain but will give you longer life. Paint will last 10+ years depending on the paint used. Hope this helps, I’ve worked for Sherwin Williams for 17 years.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jlopez View Post
            People typically use stain if they want more of the grain to show, whether it’s solid or semitransparent. Solid stain will last longer. No need for primer if you stain because stain needs to penetrate the wood. Power wash clean and let it dry. Stain typically last 3-5 years. Prime and paint will last longer but you take away from the look of the wood by putting on a coating that builds and fills in some of the grain but will give you longer life. Paint will last 10+ years depending on the paint used. Hope this helps, I’ve worked for Sherwin Williams for 17 years.
            Have you ever heard that cedar should not be painted? I have had two people tell me this. they say it will get mold.....

            Personally I do not want wood grain showing on the outside. Inside I am using the same wood but will stain that. I would prefer to Prime and paint it. Should this be an oil based Paint for this or is exterior latex fine?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by wlee15 View Post
              Have you ever heard that cedar should not be painted? I have had two people tell me this. they say it will get mold.....

              Personally I do not want wood grain showing on the outside. Inside I am using the same wood but will stain that. I would prefer to Prime and paint it. Should this be an oil based Paint for this or is exterior latex fine?
              It will not mold. Cedar has tannin that can bleed through the coating. Use a slow dry oil based wood primer and allow it to dry for 24 hours. If you have knots you may want to spot prime those first, let dry then fully prime the surface. This will seal in the tannin. Then topcoat with a quality latex paint and you should be good. Oil based paints do not have mildicide and will mildew quickly outside. Hope this helps!

              Comment


                #8
                Just curious, but why spend money on cedar if you want to paint it?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Palmetto View Post
                  Just curious, but why spend money on cedar if you want to paint it?
                  I got the cedar for almost nothing. I got this entire stack for $400.00, the retail price of it was over $14,000.00
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Cedar is great stuff, wont mold. My house is all brick except for soffit and fascia ,fascia is rough cut cedar built in the mid 90's and 99% of it is like new. Has been painted. Getting ready for another coat of fresh paint.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Have you tried a pressure washer to bring out the color and leave it more natural.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by MisterB View Post
                        Have you tried a pressure washer to bring out the color and leave it more natural.
                        That is the plan for the inside walls. On the inside I am doing the bottom of the wall wainscoting with rusty corrugated tin, with the remaining wall Natural Tone Cedar, and the ceilings done with new shiny corrugated tin (to keep it bright)

                        I want the look of the outside to look kind of like the pic below but the wood will be a dark Grey, and the Trim boards will be stained the same color as the deck. I will be using R- Panel for the bottom instead of corrugated.

                        At least that is the plan for now anyway, we will see how thing move along.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                          #13
                          we sprayed Thompsons waterseal on ours with a bug sprayer every March for 20 years and never had a problem. Looks the same as it did when it was put up.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Kinda funny I knew some old timers that would use roofing tar thinned with Kerosene to stain or seal wood including old cedar because thats what they had on hand. Crazy what people would do back in the day.

                            I've personally had the best luck with PPG Sikkens SRD semi transparent stains for a lot of commercial projects over the years with lasting effect. Colors are limited but I have not found a one coat product that will out last it. The last 5gal bucket I purchased was around $250-300 I belive.

                            Painting has its own problems as mentioned. Flood was mentioned and is also another good alternative and can be tinted for a custom color but will not last as long (half) as Sikkens in my experience. Only issue I see is non conformity in wood color you have while using a transparent stain.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by wlee15 View Post
                              .....retail price of it was over $14,000.00
                              What kinda cedar is that?

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