In the old days I wonder if they cleaned them like guys today recommend? Probably not
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Breaking in a new rifle
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by Bumpy View PostIn the old days I wonder if they cleaned them like guys today recommend? Probably not
One thing to remember is improper cleaning can hurt a bbl more than help...better have a good bore guide & not let the rod scrape the crown. I use the foam now & haven't used rods in years.
Comment
-
Originally posted by XR650RRider View PostI use foam as well but still use a rod to get it out of barrel, I must be missing something.
You can keep one in your game bag & works great for emergencies if you ever plug the bbl...poke loose the debris & pull through the muzzle end & your hunt is still on. Just pull straight & not at an angle to keep the crown safe.
Comment
-
1 shot clean until copper fouling stops. On a custom lapped barrel this will be 5-8 cycles. Out of the box barrel 20 rounds or so. Do this with a patch only. Then do 3-4 round cycles with a bronze brush until color change is done. Clean the chamber each time. Don’t over heat. Once fouling is done and the barrel cleans easy, I would not clean but every 250-500 rounds. Maybe a chamber cleaning now and then. If you want to solve breakin or not argument call a barrel manufacturer.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Artos View PostI use a piece of weed whacker string to pull the patches. Burn one end till it starts to melt & tap out on a wet surface & sharpen the other end to a point to pierce the patch. Blunt melted end keeps it on.
You can keep one in your game bag & works great for emergencies if you ever plug the bbl...poke loose the debris & pull through the muzzle end & your hunt is still on. Just pull straight & not at an angle to keep the crown safe.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Artos View PostI use a piece of weed whacker string to pull the patches. Burn one end till it starts to melt & tap out on a wet surface & sharpen the other end to a point to pierce the patch. Blunt melted end keeps it on.
You can keep one in your game bag & works great for emergencies if you ever plug the bbl...poke loose the debris & pull through the muzzle end & your hunt is still on. Just pull straight & not at an angle to keep the crown safe.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Artos View PostI use a piece of weed whacker string to pull the patches. Burn one end till it starts to melt & tap out on a wet surface & sharpen the other end to a point to pierce the patch. Blunt melted end keeps it on.
You can keep one in your game bag & works great for emergencies if you ever plug the bbl...poke loose the debris & pull through the muzzle end & your hunt is still on. Just pull straight & not at an angle to keep the crown safe.
Comment
-
Originally posted by krisw View PostBreak in seems to be one of those things you can’t prove or disprove. I clean the gun then just shoot it. I’ll clean again when the groups start to open up.
Comment
-
Whatever makes you feel good about the rifle is my answer here. I have a lot of custom guns and even more factory rifles. I have done the shoot, clean, shoot method and it is a waste of time IMO. If there is chatter and marking in the throat area you will always have to run more patches. That does not mean that rifle will not shoot, in fact it may shoot better with some fouling. I expect a match barrel with a properly cut chamber to clean about the same on 1-5 as 20-60 rounds. I have inspected all my bores with a bore scope. The ones that clean easy are that way from day one and you can see why. The ones that foul have chatter marks and you will see deposits of copper. However, some of those chattered factory barrels shoot very very well.
Sum it up, do not burn the barrel with heat cracks and just shoot it.
Comment
Comment