Ford 7.3 Godzilla Twin Turbo

[WItoTX]

Well it's finally been reported Ford is testing a twin turbo setup on the new 7.3 Godzilla motor. All I can say is if Ford actually get's this to production, I will be one of the first to purchase. The motor can handle 1000 hp on stock internals.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a3...-godzilla-v-8/

I still say hybrid tech is the way of the future. But dang this would be a cool motor!

[bbqfan5909]

Power of a diesel motor without epa components. Been saying this a long time why someone hasn't tried this.

[WItoTX]

Power of a diesel motor without epa components. Been saying this a long time why someone hasn't tried this.

Exactly! Not to mention reduced maintenance costs. I really hope it comes out. That would be a beast for towing.

[Man]

I am suprised that they are putting R&D money into this when it seems like its supposed to all be in electric advancements.....suprised an excited.

[Mike D]

This will be a sleeper vehicle. They will keep the boost low and the power to 600hp or less I’m betting.

But then when the tuners get a hold of it......there’s already been one in the aftermarket that put out 1,100HP on pump gas with only an injector change and tuning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[WItoTX]

This will be a sleeper vehicle. They will keep the boost low and the power to 600hp or less I’m betting.

But then when the tuners get a hold of it......there’s already been one in the aftermarket that put out 1,100HP on pump gas with only an injector change and tuning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It will be interesting to see, because this motor was originally developed for an alternative to diesel in the heavy Ford lineup (450 and up). Luckily they included it in the 3/4 ton and 1 ton lineup too.

For Ford, the diesel needs to reign supreme in the lineup, so I expect somewhere around 500 hp (Not much more than the current motor), but probably 800-900 lb ft of torque. And the 10 speed is already connected to the current diesel, so no need to develop a new transmission, which gives tuners plenty of room to tune.

[kingranch]

theres a tech swap video where they threw this beast in a foxbody!!

[RifleBowPistol]

Exactly! Not to mention reduced maintenance costs. I really hope it comes out. That would be a beast for towing.

Have you ever owned a 1000 hp, twin turbo engine, of any kind? Maintenance on such a engine, ain't cheap in any form, there is a lot that should be done often and a lot of things that should never be done, that get done to many vehicles regularly. If you do a lot of what is done to common low hp engines, to a high hp engine, much less a 1000 hp turbo engine, you will kill it quick. Most guys will not do proper maintenance on a 500 hp, NA engines, the maintenance you should do on a 1000 hp turbo engine, will only get done by about 5% of the customers who own them, if these were to hit the road.

I have been contemplating building a 1000 to 1100 hp twin turbo engine for my GT. I would love to, but I know that melting pistons becomes a much stronger possibility, than if I just stick to about a 750 hp, NA engine. You have to keep very close track of what you put in such a engine for fuel. You need to keep track of engine temps, before getting into the throttle, really monitor engine temps closely all the time. Then you will need to run good oil, change the oil often, I would say no more than 1000 miles on the oil, then a very good oil filter, not Wal-Mart, or Fram, STP, ECT, like I see on 600 hp engines way too often. Then a large oil cooler, if not dual oil coolers, and water cooled turbos would be great. Then the engine cooling system would need to be able to transfer a lot more heat, than a 750 NA engine of the same size.

1000+ turbo engine is great, when it holds together. But you really got to learn what will kill such a engine, and how quickly seemly minor problems will kill such a engine. Fuel issues can kill such a engine, in less than a second. I have tried many times to help people understand what should and should not be done, and how not enough fuel or low octane fuel or bad fuel, which bad pump gas, is very common, more so in the higher octane fuels. Basically not enough fuel, bad fuel, low octane fuel will kill a 1000 hp engine or even much lower hp engine, very fast. A hot engine, will detonate, much quicker and kill it's self, very quickly also. Running the crap out of a heat soaked engine is very dangerous. That's one that I can't get a lot of people to understand. Just because you were able to run your 150 hp Honda fwd 4 cylinder engine at WOT with the temps at 250 degrees and it lived, does not mean you will get the same results with a 1000 hp turbo engine.
Then you have the problem of higher octane pumps fuels are more often bad, because they sit in the tanks at the gas stations longer, before it gets pumped into someone's car or truck. Higher octane fuel goes bad just as fast as low octane fuel. Bright yellow 93 octane fuel, is just as bad for your 1000 hp turbo engine as bright yellow 87 octane fuel. You really should have a fuel test kit at that power level to make sure you are not putting bad fuel in you car or truck. It will kill a engine in seconds, or less, if you get into the throttle. Also, if you do get fuel that tests good, you should burn that fuel through your engine, inside of a week, maybe two weeks, but that's pushing it. 9 days after the fuel is mixed at the gas stations it will test bad. So there is not much chance, you can have fuel in your tank, for two weeks, that will still test good.

If you want to own a 1000+ hp engine and don't want to test all of the fuel before you put it in the tank, just buy race fuel by the 55 gallon drum, like I used to. Depending on which fuel you choose to use and where you get it from. It should cost about $8, to about $22 a gallon. You need to make sure you choose the proper fuel for your engine, get it tuned on that fuel, then run the same fuel all the time. Then you can mostly factor the fuel problems out, as long as it's not a fuel with ethanol or methanol in it. If you buy race fuel, run only pure race fuel. Again, pump gas goes bad, mix pump gas and race fuel and you are right back to the situation of the fuel will go bad inside of two weeks. Then keeping track of the fuel is not a big deal. You can just pump fuel in the vehicle and go. But you still need to keep track of fuel pressure and really wide band readings. If you have a pump fail, it will kill your engine, in a few seconds or less.

Knowing what I know about high hp turbo engines, I am leery of doing so. Mainly because of the fuel situation. If I do so, I will run E85 as often as possible, to keep the fuel costs down. But E85 kills fuel mileage and it will kill fuel system components if they are not compatible with ethanol. So if I do the twin turbo engine build for my car, I will have a race fuel tune for it, E85 tune for it, then maybe a 93 octane tune for it. The 93 octane tune will be for emergencies, when I am too far away from a station that sells E85, don't have any race fuel and need fuel right now to get back home. But to be able to change tunes, I will have to carry my lap top with me all the time. I have a large roll of 1/2" stainless steel tubing, that will work great for fuel line, and I have 5/8" ID stainless steel fuel rails. So I would just need to buy some expensive, high flow ethanol compatible injectors, a big ethanol compatible fuel pump, then good ethanol compatible fuel hose and fittings. Oh, then a fuel pressure regulator, that is ethanol compatible. Or I could buy cheaper fuel system components and run nothing but C16 race fuel. Save money on the fuel system parts and then pay $18 a gallon for fuel.

Knowing what all I know, I am still very seriously thinking of putting the turbos on the car, just because it would be a blast. But a 750 NA engine would be a lot of fun also, and a lot less head ache. I need to make a decision soon. The cam, pistons, injectors, headers, would be very different between a 750 NA engine and a 1100 whp twin turbo engine. I need to start buying those pieces.

[WItoTX]

Have you ever owned a 1000 hp, twin turbo engine, of any kind? Maintenance on such a engine, ain't cheap in any form, there is a lot that should be done often and a lot of things that should never be done, that get done to many vehicles regularly. If you do a lot of what is done to common low hp engines, to a high hp engine, much less a 1000 hp turbo engine, you will kill it quick. Most guys will not do proper maintenance on a 500 hp, NA engine, the maintenance you should do on a 1000 hp turbo engine, will only get done by about 5% of the customers who own them, if these were to hit the road.

I was talking about the engine that comes from the factory being cheap to maintain. As far as a tuned engine goes, I don't know what it would cost to maintain. BUT, my truck is tuned to 650 hp and 1200 ft lbs, and I just sold my Hellcat which was north of 700 hp. My current truck costs about $200 for oil change, fuel filters, air filters and full synthetic oil. The car cost $70 for oil and filter. The maintenance schedule for the HC was literally no different than a normal car (I tracked mine, so I went above and beyond on maintenance).

Tuning to 1000 hp may be a different story. But the 7.3 block and the internals are rated to 1000 hp. The transmission has performed well up to 1400 hp. So there is room for tuners on the back end.

[WItoTX]

I have been contemplating building a 1000 to 1100 hp twin turbo engine for my GT. I would love to, but I know that melting pistons becomes a much stronger possibility, than if I just stick to about a 750 hp, NA engine. You have to keep very close track of what you put in such a engine for fuel. You need to keep track of engine temps, before getting into the throttle, really monitor engine temps closely all the time. Then you will need to run good oil, change the oil often, I would say no more than 1000 miles on the oil, then a very good oil filter, not Wal-Mart, or Fram, STP, ECT, like I see on 600 hp engines way too often. Then a large coil cooler if not dual oil coolers. And water cooled turbos would be great. Then the engine cooling system would need to be able to transfer a lot more heat, than a 750 NA engine of the same size.

You added to your post. First, where is the photo of this GT?! I'd love to see it, I just sold my WB HC for a GT350. Love the GT350 10x more than the HC, and it's "only" got 526 hp LOL

Second, if you got a 750 hp NA coyote, you need to work for Ford because they are only squeezing 760 hp outta a cross-plane 5.2 with a giant SC strapped to it.

With an e85 tune, 1000 hp out of a HC with a simple pulley swap and bigger pump/injectors is pretty easy, and can be run as a DD. I looked at the 1000 hp package until I realized 700 hp was way more than enough on the track, and at 700 hp, I could keep my factory warranty.

[jdg13]

They'll put it in the new SVT Tremoring Raptor Godzilla package and charge $150k to the folks who need 1000hp to haul groceries. Good marketing move for Ford.

[Texans42]

They'll put it in the new SVT Tremoring Raptor Godzilla package and charge $150k to the folks who need 1000hp to haul groceries. Good marketing move for Ford.

Probably going into the Raptor. They kept blowing up the GT 5.2

[WItoTX]

Probably going into the Raptor. They kept blowing up the GT 5.2

The 5.2 is way lighter though. They won't stick a cast iron block in the front of an off road truck like the Raptor.

I didn't know the 5.2 motors were blowing up, very interesting. Was seriously considering a new GT500 until dealers refused to build the package I wanted.

[Texans42]

The 5.2 is way lighter though. They won't stick a cast iron block in the front of an off road truck like the Raptor.

I didn't know the 5.2 motors were blowing up, very interesting. Was seriously considering a new GT500 until dealers refused to build the package I wanted.

They where blowing them up on test mules

Look up specs. Pretty close. With out Turbos I think the 7.3 is within 60lbs

[bbqfan5909]

I think you missed the OP’s point bud. Not asking for a 1100hp F250, but a 600hp twin turbo gas built to take load would be far cheaper then a diesel, with a lot less moving parts with (Egr, scr, dpf) system.

Have you ever owned a 1000 hp, twin turbo engine, of any kind? Maintenance on such a engine, ain't cheap in any form, there is a lot that should be done often and a lot of things that should never be done, that get done to many vehicles regularly. If you do a lot of what is done to common low hp engines, to a high hp engine, much less a 1000 hp turbo engine, you will kill it quick. Most guys will not do proper maintenance on a 500 hp, NA engines, the maintenance you should do on a 1000 hp turbo engine, will only get done by about 5% of the customers who own them, if these were to hit the road.

I have been contemplating building a 1000 to 1100 hp twin turbo engine for my GT. I would love to, but I know that melting pistons becomes a much stronger possibility, than if I just stick to about a 750 hp, NA engine. You have to keep very close track of what you put in such a engine for fuel. You need to keep track of engine temps, before getting into the throttle, really monitor engine temps closely all the time. Then you will need to run good oil, change the oil often, I would say no more than 1000 miles on the oil, then a very good oil filter, not Wal-Mart, or Fram, STP, ECT, like I see on 600 hp engines way too often. Then a large oil cooler, if not dual oil coolers, and water cooled turbos would be great. Then the engine cooling system would need to be able to transfer a lot more heat, than a 750 NA engine of the same size.

1000+ turbo engine is great, when it holds together. But you really got to learn what will kill such a engine, and how quickly seemly minor problems will kill such a engine. Fuel issues can kill such a engine, in less than a second. I have tried many times to help people understand what should and should not be done, and how not enough fuel or low octane fuel or bad fuel, which bad pump gas, is very common, more so in the higher octane fuels. Basically not enough fuel, bad fuel, low octane fuel will kill a 1000 hp engine or even much lower hp engine, very fast. A hot engine, will detonate, much quicker and kill it's self, very quickly also. Running the crap out of a heat soaked engine is very dangerous. That's one that I can't get a lot of people to understand. Just because you were able to run your 150 hp Honda fwd 4 cylinder engine at WOT with the temps at 250 degrees and it lived, does not mean you will get the same results with a 1000 hp turbo engine.
Then you have the problem of higher octane pumps fuels are more often bad, because they sit in the tanks at the gas stations longer, before it gets pumped into someone's car or truck. Higher octane fuel goes bad just as fast as low octane fuel. Bright yellow 93 octane fuel, is just as bad for your 1000 hp turbo engine as bright yellow 87 octane fuel. You really should have a fuel test kit at that power level to make sure you are not putting bad fuel in you car or truck. It will kill a engine in seconds, or less, if you get into the throttle. Also, if you do get fuel that tests good, you should burn that fuel through your engine, inside of a week, maybe two weeks, but that's pushing it. 9 days after the fuel is mixed at the gas stations it will test bad. So there is not much chance, you can have fuel in your tank, for two weeks, that will still test good.

If you want to own a 1000+ hp engine and don't want to test all of the fuel before you put it in the tank, just buy race fuel by the 55 gallon drum, like I used to. Depending on which fuel you choose to use and where you get it from. It should cost about $8, to about $22 a gallon. You need to make sure you choose the proper fuel for your engine, get it tuned on that fuel, then run the same fuel all the time. Then you can mostly factor the fuel problems out, as long as it's not a fuel with ethanol or methanol in it. If you buy race fuel, run only pure race fuel. Again, pump gas goes bad, mix pump gas and race fuel and you are right back to the situation of the fuel will go bad inside of two weeks. Then keeping track of the fuel is not a big deal. You can just pump fuel in the vehicle and go. But you still need to keep track of fuel pressure and really wide band readings. If you have a pump fail, it will kill your engine, in a few seconds or less.

Knowing what I know about high hp turbo engines, I am leery of doing so. Mainly because of the fuel situation. If I do so, I will run E85 as often as possible, to keep the fuel costs down. But E85 kills fuel mileage and it will kill fuel system components if they are not compatible with ethanol. So if I do the twin turbo engine build for my car, I will have a race fuel tune for it, E85 tune for it, then maybe a 93 octane tune for it. The 93 octane tune will be for emergencies, when I am too far away from a station that sells E85, don't have any race fuel and need fuel right now to get back home. But to be able to change tunes, I will have to carry my lap top with me all the time. I have a large roll of 1/2" stainless steel tubing, that will work great for fuel line, and I have 5/8" ID stainless steel fuel rails. So I would just need to buy some expensive, high flow ethanol compatible injectors, a big ethanol compatible fuel pump, then good ethanol compatible fuel hose and fittings. Oh, then a fuel pressure regulator, that is ethanol compatible. Or I could buy cheaper fuel system components and run nothing but C16 race fuel. Save money on the fuel system parts and then pay $18 a gallon for fuel.

Knowing what all I know, I am still very seriously thinking of putting the turbos on the car, just because it would be a blast. But a 750 NA engine would be a lot of fun also, and a lot less head ache. I need to make a decision soon. The cam, pistons, injectors, headers, would be very different between a 750 NA engine and a 1100 whp twin turbo engine. I need to start buying those pieces.