Bare Shafts Flying Tail-Right - What Does it Mean?

[bountyhunter]

I stand by my answer. I will be the first to admit that I am no carbon arrow guru but I have made and tuned the wood arrows that have won over 10 world traditional titles both male and female, recurve and longbow. That being said, if I were helping someone bareshaft tune and saw that there arrows were striking the target in the bullseye yet the nock is 4'' outside of that plane I would consider my work unfinished.. I will also confess that I am not a big fan of bareshaft tuning for relative newbies. My thoughts on that are that most newbies lack the form to make an accurate assesment of what is really going on with their arrow. That being said, I have seen a number of people that purport themselves as being long time trad archers that their form doesn't lend itself to bareshaft tuning either. Correct be if I am wrong but isn't an arrow propelled? A rope is a limp object that lacks spine unlike an arrow so yes it would be easier to pull it rather than push it. However we are talking archery here and the rope in this case is an arrow and it is being propelled from the nock end toward the target by a working machine with two opposing forces at work which are tension and compression. Respectfully, I fail to see the analogy as valid . As for fletching, yes they will help make up for some of our form and release failures that is why I always put as much helical as I can on an arrow. The spin of the feather acts as the rifling on a bullet as well as aiding in the archers paradox. I have heard it said that most traditional archers lack the God given shooting talent that it takes to realize what bareshaft tuning does for them. That statement sure got me to thinking.

Terry we all know you make good arrows, no need to brag......

You are right that the rope example wasn't the best as an arrow is propelled and not pulled to start. However, I think we are all right in our own way, we just don't aways explain everything clearly all the time...

Like I said though there are far more varables that just the arrow's spine in play. That is why just shooting bare shaft arrows at a target is a bad test. You have to have some type of reference to base the outcome on and that is especially true for us that "Lack the God given shooting talent". In fact most archers are going to get some kind of tail right or left from bare shafts because everything is not perfect. Also a target needs to be one that does not affect the arrows appeared flight after impact. In other words bag targets should not be used for this type of testing if you are only looking for an indication given by the tail direction of the arrow.

[brent.westbrook]

the first time I tried bare shaft tuning, wow, talk about test of patience, my release was so bad I would have to shoot around 5 times and average my results because my release was so bad I couldnt get a defined repeat of every shot. As far as I arrow straight or impact where I want it, to me and IMO I want both, penetration will suffer if the arrow is not impacting straight. I do not practice to hit bullseyes, I shoot to be able to be a better hunter.

[b0whunter]

OK. So let's say the 31" bare shaft carbons fly great with 125 grain tips when I draw 28". I want to cut them down to 29". I think this will help me to be more consistent with my draw and anchor. I realize that this will affect the spine of the arrow, but roughly, how much? About how much should I increase the tip weight? I know that it depends upon the individual archer. I am looking for a rough estimate, based upon more experienced archers' past results.

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[Bisch]

I cannot give you a number for how much weight to add up front but I can tell you that cutting 2" off a carbon arrow shaft will make it A LOT stiffer.

Bisch

[RickBarbee]

Shortening the arrow by 2" is going to increase the dynamic spine by near 20# with the 125gr point.

You will need to take your total front load ( insert/point combined ) to around 200gr to get back to the current dynamic spine you have at 31".

Actually a total front load of 210 to 215 gr should put you right back where you were for spine.

You're also gonna have some good FOC of around 20 to 21 percent.

Rick

[b0whunter]

Thank yall very much!

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