80 lb Draw Weight bows?

[WItoTX]

I am looking for a bow, and want to go to a 80 lb draw weight. I have to research a bit before going to the bow shop so I know what I am getting into. I want to understand the very basics before I got to the bow shop, and Google has not been very helpful in my searches.

Does anyone make an 80 lb draw weight bow that is light enough to be carried through the elk woods?
Do I have to go to aftermarket limbs to get there?
What does it do to the life of the bow?
Does one company make a better bow to modify than others? I am preferential to Mathews, but I hold no loyalty to any company.
What else should I consider?

My end game is to shoot a 500 gr arrow out to 100 yards. I don't plan to shoot at animals that far, but for target practice, nothing makes a 70 yard shot easier than practicing at 80 yards. And my current HTX, while it works for that shot, it maxxed around 80 yards.

[kd350]

I know Pse and Hoyt does. I will add when my pse was at 76 I was able to get wayyy past 100 with my sight. 76/28/494/283 FPS. Now at 65 lbs with the same arrow I can still get 100

[WItoTX]

Originally Posted by kd350

I know Pse and Hoyt does. I will add when my pse was at 76 I was able to get wayyy past 100 with my sight. 76/28/494/283 FPS. Now at 65 lbs with the same arrow I can still get 100

Good to know. Going to start looking there. I appreciate it.

[KevinG]

I have the Matthews V3 27. 75 LB module’s and a custom string made it’s peak draw weight 82LBs.

[WItoTX]

Originally Posted by KevinG

I have the Matthews V3 27. 75 LB module’s and a custom string made it’s peak draw weight 82LBs.

Interesting. How do you like it? Do you know what you are getting for speed? How heavy of arrow are you shooting?

[popup_menace]

Originally Posted by KevinG

I have the Matthews V3 27. 75 LB module’s and a custom string made it’s peak draw weight 82LBs.

Could be a dangerous way to run that bow. 2-3# above your listed weight is ok. 7# means you could be running it well beyond factory spec and void your warranty.

Not saying that’s the case here, just something you may want to check. Run a tape on your ATA and BH measurements to be sure you’re not overtwisted on your cables.

To the OP, an 80# bow is going to have the same mass weight as a 70# bow, so that’s not an issue. You’re going to have a tough time finding a shop that has one on the shelf, so there’s something to think about before purchasing. Go draw back and let down on a 70# bow. If it’s tough to let down without it yanking your arm, I wouldn’t recommend an 80# bow.

However, it’s your bow so do whatever you’d like and have fun shooting!

[Tom]

[QUOTE=popup_menace;15873563]Could be a dangerous way to run that bow. 2-3# above your listed weight is ok. 7# means you could be running it well beyond factory spec and void your warranty.

oh I don't know. All you can do is crank it all the way up and that won't void warranty. I have cranked every bow I have had all the way up and never got more than a pound or two over the 70lb rating but every bow is different.

[Black-N-Red]

I’d recommend looking at the PSE Full Throttle. It can do what an 80#er can do at 70#’s. I’ve got mine set at 60#’s now & shoots a 471gr @ 295. Also I have freind that has an 80# bow, I believe it’s Hoyt but not sure. I’ll have to ask him his specs on the bow but he’s shooting a 500gr arrow @ 300. My Full Throttle at 70 is a tad bit faster than his. We’re supposed to get together & shoot & I can get some #’s for you.


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[Aggiehunter08]

My last Hoyt (nitrum) and the one now (ventum) are 80 lbs. I carried the nitrum after elk several times.

[Edward F]

I have an RX3 that’s 80#.

[WItoTX]

Thanks for the info everyone. I will be researching heavily once I get home.

Once the new bows come out and the bow shop traffic dies down a bit, I will be going in to see what they can do for me.

[Mr. Whiskers]

I shot 80 lbs for a good while. All Bowtech Bows. Allegiance, Tribute, Guardian and Insanity. I still have the Insanity.

[IOWA BOW HUNTER]

RX5 ultra is a solid bow that goes up to 80#. Thinking about trading in my bear (which I love) to buy one.

[SETX_Insanity]

[quote=Tom;15880067]

Originally Posted by popup_menace

Could be a dangerous way to run that bow. 2-3# above your listed weight is ok. 7# means you could be running it well beyond factory spec and void your warranty.

oh I don't know. All you can do is crank it all the way up and that won't void warranty. I have cranked every bow I have had all the way up and never got more than a pound or two over the 70lb rating but every bow is different.

Put a few twists in your cables and you can get more than two pounds over the limb rating...

[Cullbuck]

PSE just came out with the Levitate, it’s a carbon bow with 80lb limbs. Weighs 3.6 but it comes with a price tag lol John Dudley just did a video on youtube setting it up and shooting out to 120 yards with a 5xx grain arrow


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[Stephenc]

I shoot an 80# Hoyt Ventum 30 and I love it.

[Ruttin&Struttin]

Most manufacturers make an 80lb model. Personally, I'd go to different shops and find out what manufacturers they carry. Shoot all of their 70lb bows and make a decision based on that knowing an 80lb bow will be a bit harder to pull than the 70s. I've only ever shot 80+ over the last 20+ years. That said, a fast 70lb bow can easily keep up with a slower 80lb bow. If you find a fast IBO 70 it may perform as well as a slower IBO 80 while still being a little easier to draw.
What's your DL? Switching to a thumb release from a trigger release will likely lengthen your draw length. Adding inches to your draw is usually an easier way to pick up speed. An inch of draw is probably equivalent to a few pounds of draw weight.
Good luck with your decision and keep us posted what you go with.

[WItoTX]

Originally Posted by Ruttin&Struttin

Most manufacturers make an 80lb model. Personally, I'd go to different shops and find out what manufacturers they carry. Shoot all of their 70lb bows and make a decision based on that knowing an 80lb bow will be a bit harder to pull than the 70s. I've only ever shot 80+ over the last 20+ years. That said, a fast 70lb bow can easily keep up with a slower 80lb bow. If you find a fast IBO 70 it may perform as well as a slower IBO 80 while still being a little easier to draw.
What's your DL? Switching to a thumb release from a trigger release will likely lengthen your draw length. Adding inches to your draw is usually an easier way to pick up speed. An inch of draw is probably equivalent to a few pounds of draw weight.
Good luck with your decision and keep us posted what you go with.

This is helpful. I am currently at 28.5 draw length (maxxed out) on my HTX, and shoot a tension release.

The other issue I am finding is finding anyone that has a lefty in stock.

[KevinG]

Originally Posted by WItoTX

Interesting. How do you like it? Do you know what you are getting for speed? How heavy of arrow are you shooting?

Love it. It’s smooth and crisp. I get 317 on a 446 grian setup. 29 inch draw. I had custom tapes made for it also. Very nice setup.

[KevinG]

Originally Posted by popup_menace

Could be a dangerous way to run that bow. 2-3# above your listed weight is ok. 7# means you could be running it well beyond factory spec and void your warranty.

Not saying that’s the case here, just something you may want to check. Run a tape on your ATA and BH measurements to be sure you’re not overtwisted on your cables.

To the OP, an 80# bow is going to have the same mass weight as a 70# bow, so that’s not an issue. You’re going to have a tough time finding a shop that has one on the shelf, so there’s something to think about before purchasing. Go draw back and let down on a 70# bow. If it’s tough to let down without it yanking your arm, I wouldn’t recommend an 80# bow.

However, it’s your bow so do whatever you’d like and have fun shooting!

Had the Mathews dealer/shop set it up. They measured everything and proved custom tapes for my fast Eddie.. I got a set of phenom strings and cables and I was very surprised at the increase in speed…. Most I have gotten with just swapping them out..

[Hoss163]

Get a Mathews V3 with 75 Lb mods will get you close to 80 I have a vertix with 75 lb mod and it is 78lbs with some left to crank down on the limb bolts .

But really no need in 80 lbs unless your going after big game in Africa!

[WItoTX]

Originally Posted by Hoss163

Get a Mathews V3 with 75 Lb mods will get you close to 80 I have a vertix with 75 lb mod and it is 78lbs with some left to crank down on the limb bolts .

But really no need in 80 lbs unless your going after big game in Africa!

Thanks! The goal is to take shots out to 100 yards with a 5xx gr arrow during target practice. I actually love my current HTX, and I think I would still take it in the elk woods with me. But just being able to shoot out to 100 yards on a target will make a 60 yard shot feel like a chip shot!

[TylerDale]

Fwiw my max range is about 100yards with my VXR set at 72lb 29.5draw. I shoot a 530gr arrow with AAE Max Stealths and my fletching kiss the bottom of my sight @100.
I'm in the same boat and will probably get the new Mathews in 75lb mods and bump my DL to 30.

[Loneaggie]

I don't think anyone above has mentioned Prime. They make 80#, are pretty smooth, hold their own speed wise, and the bows "feel" lighter in the hand than they are. I have a Nexus 4 that just plain points naturally. The upside is it takes less offset weight to get them to hold level tha most of the other top heavy bows, meaning, overall a lighter rig. Mathews and Hoyt make great bows, but all that "quiet/dead in the hand" marketing... is achieved by adding weight to the bow. I think the PSE and Prime are ahead in this game as they are "quiet enough" and notably lighter.

[soldierarcher]

Mathews still makes the Monster Safari that goes up to 85lbs.

[WItoTX]

Originally Posted by TylerDale

Fwiw my max range is about 100yards with my VXR set at 72lb 29.5draw. I shoot a 530gr arrow with AAE Max Stealths and my fletching kiss the bottom of my sight @100.
I'm in the same boat and will probably get the new Mathews in 75lb mods and bump my DL to 30.

You know, this is the route I had been considering. I still haven't been to Texas Archery to talk through it, or even what they can adjust on my current set up to get me out to 100. This weekend I shot to 80, and I couldn't believe how huge the .010" pin looked over my 24"x24" target. Going to need a bit more practice.

Originally Posted by Loneaggie

I don't think anyone above has mentioned Prime. They make 80#, are pretty smooth, hold their own speed wise, and the bows "feel" lighter in the hand than they are. I have a Nexus 4 that just plain points naturally. The upside is it takes less offset weight to get them to hold level tha most of the other top heavy bows, meaning, overall a lighter rig. Mathews and Hoyt make great bows, but all that "quiet/dead in the hand" marketing... is achieved by adding weight to the bow. I think the PSE and Prime are ahead in this game as they are "quiet enough" and notably lighter.

PSE and Prime were high on my list. The Dudley special from PSE is really good looking and light enough, but they are very proud of it.

[kd350]

Originally Posted by WItoTX

You know, this is the route I had been considering. I still haven't been to Texas Archery to talk through it, or even what they can adjust on my current set up to get me out to 100. This weekend I shot to 80, and I couldn't believe how huge the .010" pin looked over my 24"x24" target. Going to need a bit more practice.



PSE and Prime were high on my list. The Dudley special from PSE is really good looking and light enough, but they are very proud of it.

If your sight has exposed fibers to gather more light, cover it. It will dull the pin out and make it smaller, it helped me Atleast. How my eyes work, if I have a bright pin; even at 20 yards I won’t be able to focus on the spot. All I will see is the pin