Tractor Hydrolics question

[Huntindad]

I have a Kubota L3400 tractor. been a good one, but I am new to tractors...so, need some guidence.

in the picture, I have fluid dripping from the top of the chrome piston. I've had it a while and this is the first issue I've had.

Is this something I can fix or is it a Kubota dealer fix?

[M16]

You need to pull it and replace the seals. Not easy to do if you don’t know what you are doing.

[RatherBhuntin]

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

[lilavidhunter]

Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

That’s your answer.

[doghouse]

Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

Yep ^^^^^ Been a rancher with tractors all my life.

[Huntindad]

thanx guys.

I've not done any tractor work before, so It will go to local kubota folks to get both seals replaced.

thanx again.

[John Paul]

Wait till that nasty fluid starts coming out your steering seals... lol. That wasn’t a cheap fix at ole Bills Tractor.

[doghouse]

One other thing but I'm not familiar with Kubota tractors.. Tie the hoses up high to save all the hydraulic fluid you can.

[brokeno]

You might try tighting them up and see if the leak stops. If it doesn't get a new o ring seal and change it out yourself. Less than a 5 minute job.

[oneeye]

Curious, does the chrome rod have some rough spots on it about 2-3" from the bucket end. It looks like it in the photo.

[Huntindad]

Originally Posted by brokeno

You might try tighting them up and see if the leak stops. If it doesn't get a new o ring seal and change it out yourself. Less than a 5 minute job.

Will look into that. Guess I will be Utubing stuff as well

Originally Posted by oneeye

Curious, does the chrome rod have some rough spots on it about 2-3" from the bucket end. It looks like it in the photo.

don't think so. I think that is just junk picked up by the fluid going down the piston... Bit I will look at it closer.

[Arrowslinger1]

Easy to do. Just pulle the pins on each end by removing the nut and bolt that keeps the pins in. Make sure you set the bucket flat before pulling the pins. Unscrew the lines on each end of the cylinder. Take the cylinder to a place like Hose Fast or google hydraulic cylinder rebuilds near you and you should be able to get the seals redone. Should cost about $150-$175 to get it done. The cylinder will come back filled with fluid and have plugs where the lines were screwed into it. Just pin it back in. Remove the plugs and put the lines back in and snug them up. Check your hydraulic levels and fill as needed.

[bullwinkl]

I’ve done a pair of loader cylinders on a small 790 John Deere and it was tough getting the inner seal installed being so small. The larger 40hp ford I did was easier. Larger diameter and easier to flex and install. The large nuts inside the cylinder are loctite and torque pretty tight. You either need a super sturdy vice to hold the bucket end of the shaft or once you pull it out of the cylinder reinstall it on the bucket to hold it while trying to lessen the nut with a big cheater bar. Yes As recommended. Remove them and takem in to be replaced is less of a headache and pain. The seal could run about 100$ a set. It’s been awhile that I’ve done it.

[Arrowslinger1]

You may check with Hudgins Company out near you.

[sqiggy]

I changed all my seals out just a few years ago. Not hard to do other than breaking them loose, but with a good pipe wrench and cheater bar got’er done. And if you decide to do it yourself, have a bucket handy to catch the fluid inside the cylinders. Going back with new seals, I smeared a little grease on them and the shaft. Makes it a lot easier.

[Big_gun]

Did mine on my L3130. It’s not that bad if you buy a seal installer tool. I would also suggest a
Good pick set to get old seals out. It bends the inner seal so you can drop it in easier. Parts can be had on messicks Kubota.

Seal tool https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-SET-Seal...765218&sr=8-11


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[Mule Skinner]

I recently bought a place with a Kubota L2800. I too don't know squat about tractors. Started it up Saturday for the first time as it had been sitting a while. While sitting and letting it idle, I raised and lowered the front and loader and then noticed that is started leaking in the same place as the OP.

Came back home and did some Googling and found a video on Youtube. Looks like the hardest part will be to remove the loader. A set of new seals costs about $80 for about $2 worth of seals. A spanner wrench will be needed for the project.

Figured I better start learning how to do this stuff myself instead of relying on a shop.

[W-O]

Replaced them not long ago on my Father's L3400. If you do it yourself make sure you lay everything out as you take it apart so you know how it will go back together, and no one moves them. Some of the seals are a pain to get back in but it can be done. Good luck and it is not that hard to do.

[waffles]

Changing those seals are very easy, there are many YouTube videos that will walk you through it step by step.

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[Dusty Britches]

Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?

[ramrod]

Not a five minute job, some can be a bugger to take apart. Seals are in the threaded nut piece on the end of the cylinder that seal around the chrome shaft.

[Huntindad]

After watching a video about removing the cylinders and how to pull/replace the seals and what tools are required...

I think I will pull the cylinders and look to see if a hydrolic shop or Kubota can do the R & R on the seals.

[dclifton]

Originally Posted by Dusty Britches

When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?

Could be different issues. There are seals in the cylinder itself. Rod gland seals and piston seals. They can be tricky and unless you have some tools you might be better off to take to a local hydraulic shop.

Hoses leaking are just a matter of taking those off and having them remade somewhere. Now if you have Oring face seal fittings depends on what tractor brand etc. You may have a bad oring in the adapter. You can take the hose loose and see if your adapter has a flat face with an oring in it. If so it may just need replacing.

Tell tell sing of oring being bad is if fluid is leaking around the nut where the hose is connected to the adapter. Its either loose or oring is bad if its ORFS.

If hoses is leaking anywhere around the crimp or rubber area then hose will need to be remade.



OP problem is bad rod gland seals in his cylinder. But since he is there he needs to replace rod gland seals and piston seals. On both cylinders. My suggestion is go ahead and pull lift cylinders and tilt. Will save yourself some money in hydraulic fluid by doing it now vs later. Nowdays when a newer tractor starts leaking it wont be long and they will all start to leak. But at minimum he needs to do both tilt cylinders now.

[ThisLadyHunts]

Originally Posted by RatherBhuntin

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

Good advice about doing both at the same time.

PS, the picture you're using as your avatar is just precious!

[Dusty Britches]

Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.

[dclifton]

Originally Posted by Dusty Britches

Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.

So one of 2 issues. Hoses is bad at the crimp. Or depending on it its ORFS you may need to just replace the oring at the nut. where the hose connects to the adapter. Most of the newer equipment is ORFS. the older JIC is a metal to metal 37deg taper. That generally doesnt ever leak if it does you can get a wrench on it and snug it up a little tighter.

Also if you take the adpater out there is an oring under the adapter where it screws into the cylinder on most tractors if its Oring boss or metric. you might replace it also but its not that common of an issue.

You can find a ORFS oring kit at your local hardware or tractor dealer for usually 20 bucks its a good idea to keep them around. They are a smaller cross section than most standard orings so you need the actual ORFS kit to get the right ones.

[Huntindad]

Originally Posted by Arrowslinger1

You may check with Hudgins Company out near you.

Called both Hudgins and Kubota. Kubota was way higher than Hudgins. And, Hudgins is a lot closer. thanx for the heads up

Originally Posted by dclifton

Could be different issues. There are seals in the cylinder itself. Rod gland seals and piston seals. They can be tricky and unless you have some tools you might be better off to take to a local hydraulic shop.

Hoses leaking are just a matter of taking those off and having them remade somewhere. Now if you have Oring face seal fittings depends on what tractor brand etc. You may have a bad oring in the adapter. You can take the hose loose and see if your adapter has a flat face with an oring in it. If so it may just need replacing.

Tell tell sing of oring being bad is if fluid is leaking around the nut where the hose is connected to the adapter. Its either loose or oring is bad if its ORFS.

If hoses is leaking anywhere around the crimp or rubber area then hose will need to be remade.



OP problem is bad rod gland seals in his cylinder. But since he is there he needs to replace rod gland seals and piston seals. On both cylinders. My suggestion is go ahead and pull lift cylinders and tilt. Will save yourself some money in hydraulic fluid by doing it now vs later. Nowdays when a newer tractor starts leaking it wont be long and they will all start to leak. But at minimum he needs to do both tilt cylinders now.

Are you saying to pull all 4 cylinders the lift and tilt? I was gonna pull the 2 tilt( operates the bucket) . Tractor has about 225 hours(2007 model)

[Dale Moser]

Originally Posted by Huntindad

After watching a video about removing the cylinders and how to pull/replace the seals and what tools are required...

I think I will pull the cylinders and look to see if a hydrolic shop or Kubota can do the R & R on the seals.

I’ve had about 15 forklifts over the years, and I quit replacing seals a long time ago. A good independent hydraulic shop is the way to go.


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[dclifton]

Originally Posted by Huntindad

Called both Hudgins and Kubota. Kubota was way higher than Hudgins. And, Hudgins is a lot closer. thanx for the heads up



Are you saying to pull all 4 cylinders the lift and tilt? I was gonna pull the 2 tilt( operates the bucket) . Tractor has about 225 hours(2007 model)

I would do the 2 tilts for sure. But i can almost bet you money the lift cylinders will start leaking soon. Up to you take the 2 to start with and find you a local shop and see how they do.

[sqiggy]

Had one cylinder on bucket start leaking. Friend of mine came out and took it apart. Took the old seals to a shop near him. Came back and put it back together. Probably less than a week later, the other side went out. After watching my buddy do the first one, I had no trouble doing the second one. Then, couple weeks later, the lift seals went out on one side. That’s when I changed both at same time. Wasn’t going to wait for the second one to go out!!!

[Quackerbox]

If you're near tomball PM me. My wife's company may offer TBH discounts

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[RatherBhuntin]

Originally Posted by Dusty Britches

When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?

I was referring to the cylinder for the OP. In your case I try to tighten them up first. If that doesn't work just pull the line off and have a new one made. I go to NAPA auto parts for new hydraulic lines. Just bring in the old one and they will make one to match. Only takes them a few minutes and I'm on my way.

[Huntindad]

I pulled the left side hydrolic cylinder and you could see a a bad tear in the seal.

Other side was dry as dust... gonna leave that one alone. I musta hit the seal with a cedar limb or something.

gonna take it to a local hydraulic shop in the morning.

thanx for all the suggestions...ideas and advice. been educational.

[sqiggy]

Let us know what they charge. Hope you don’t get sticker shock!!!

[Huntindad]

will do. should be reasonable. we'll see.

[M16]

The guy I uae charges $70 on average.

[Huntindad]

Originally Posted by sqiggy

Let us know what they charge. Hope you don’t get sticker shock!!!

Went and picked up the cylinder today. Pretty pricey I thought 191.00 for one cylinder.

25 of that was shop supplies and shipping(guess they had to order parts)

little more expensive than I thought it would be from a hydrolic shop.

Labor was 115. With only 22 hours on it, figured I'd just take the bad one in.

[Huntindad]

question fro the more experienced tractor folks.

outside of hittin a seal with a cedar tree limb and damagined it...what kind of life expectancy could one expect under nornamal use.

[dclifton]

Originally Posted by Huntindad

question fro the more experienced tractor folks.

outside of hittin a seal with a cedar tree limb and damagined it...what kind of life expectancy could one expect under nornamal use.

Impossible question to answer. And hate to answer your bubble but that’s the wiper seal on outside that you tore. I suspect the other cylinder will go out soon. Unfortunately they just dry out over time from lack of use siting is usually worse on them then being used.

[Huntindad]

My bad...not 22 hours on it...225 hours.

[JonW]

Originally Posted by Huntindad

question fro the more experienced tractor folks.

outside of hittin a seal with a cedar tree limb and damagined it...what kind of life expectancy could one expect under nornamal use.

I have same tractor with around 1000 hours in it. I don’t think I’ve had to fix the same cylinder more than once yet, if that helps any.

I love Kubota’s hydraulics and don’t sweat having cylinders fixed once in a while.


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[westtexducks]

Originally Posted by Dusty Britches

Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.

Get a wrench and try tightening it up. Usually that will fix it. If it does not run in and get a hose made at your local Napa, oreillies etc. Just google hydraulic hose places near you.

Originally Posted by Dale Moser

I’ve had about 15 forklifts over the years, and I quit replacing seals a long time ago. A good independent hydraulic shop is the way to go.


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Exactly right, hydraulic cylinders are a pain in the *** to deal with. We usually will fix dang near anything we can in house for as long as I can remember on all of our heavy equipment, tractors, dozer, grader, etc... And as long as I can remember we have always taken them in to be repaired. Less mess in the shop, quicker, and easier. And usually pretty cheap and the money is well spent letting some one else deal with it.

[Dusty Britches]

Thanks, west!

[caa4612]

There is often trapped pressure in these cylinders, so it's always a good idea to cycle the handle that controls that cylinder when the engine is turned off. That should relieve any high pressure trapped in the cylinder. You don't want high pressure in your face when you break the fitting loose.

[RifleBowPistol]

If you have never replaced seals on a hydraulic cylinder, you might be better off taking the cylinder off, capping the end of the hose and taking the cylinder to a hydraulic shop. They will be able to rebuild the cylinder easily. Not sure what they charge to do so, but it's pretty easy to do, when you know how, so I would not think it would cost a lot.

[Huntindad]

Originally Posted by Arrowslinger1

Easy to do. Just pulle the pins on each end by removing the nut and bolt that keeps the pins in. Make sure you set the bucket flat before pulling the pins. Unscrew the lines on each end of the cylinder. Take the cylinder to a place like Hose Fast or google hydraulic cylinder rebuilds near you and you should be able to get the seals redone. Should cost about $150-$175 to get it done. The cylinder will come back filled with fluid and have plugs where the lines were screwed into it. Just pin it back in. Remove the plugs and put the lines back in and snug them up. Check your hydraulic levels and fill as needed.

Well, it had duct tape over the line connections. Got it all greased up today and moved some dirt.

Will check the hydrolic levels tomorrow.