Time for adult arrows....

[jds247]

Well... I guess it’s back to the bow shop. That won’t happen till late next week, since I’ll be out of town for several days.

I guess I would have assumed they would have known to check that when I had them adjust the poundage...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of the main reasons I bought a bow press is the shop is never open when you need them.

[HighwayHunter]

One of the main reasons I bought a bow press is the shop is never open when you need them.

I’m buying my own soon. I like the guys at the shop, but I annoy the ***** out of them with working on my bow as much as they do. Set both arrows in your rest running through the berger button, then adjust timing. I typically work to get rid of vertical tears first, then work on horizontal tears.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jds247]

I’m buying my own soon. I like the guys at the shop, but I annoy the ***** out of them with working on my bow as much as they do. Set both arrows in your rest running through the berger button, then adjust timing. I typically work to get rid of vertical tears first, then work on horizontal tears.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are good guys . They don't like heavy arrows or fixed blade broadheads but they will do anything you ask them. Hunter does the majority of the work on my bows. It just always seem like when I have time to tinker it's on off hours..

[muddyfuzzy]

They are good guys . They don't like heavy arrows or fixed blade broadheads..

I’d find new friends but that’s just me.....



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[enewman]

I’d find new friends but that’s just me.....



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha. But yes

[Beargrasstx]

Looking to get started. Been binge watching on YouTube for 4 nights now on tuning a bow. Seems to be a few different ways to do this. I am going to try bareshaft but I like the walkback tuning video I saw and seems simple enough.

On to my set up...
Bowtech Assassin
27 in draw
Draw weight 65lbs
28 in micro diameter 300 spine Black eagle rampage (8.77gpi)
50 insert comes with BE
Have RF test pack from 200 to 300gr
Glory Nocks which weigh about 20 to 22gr on back end

Anyone have a similar set up and what are TAW are you shooting?

Since I am going from a regular shaft to a micro diameter I will need to change the nock point or the rest right? I have nock pinch with glory nocks on the Dloop so I have to get a new D-loop installed to account for the thicker nock.

Once I get the new Dloop installed and nock point level then I can start bare shaft tuning with the different weights to see which ones are flying best out of the gate?

Once the weight is determined, then I should nock tune each bareshaft?
Then add wings, then broadhead tune?

Is this correct?

[enewman]

Looking to get started. Been binge watching on YouTube for 4 nights now on tuning a bow. Seems to be a few different ways to do this. I am going to try bareshaft but I like the walkback tuning video I saw and seems simple enough.

On to my set up...
Bowtech Assassin
27 in draw
Draw weight 65lbs
28 in micro diameter 300 spine Black eagle rampage (8.77gpi)
50 insert comes with BE
Have RF test pack from 200 to 300gr
Glory Nocks which weigh about 20 to 22gr on back end

Anyone have a similar set up and what are TAW are you shooting?

Since I am going from a regular shaft to a micro diameter I will need to change the nock point or the rest right? I have nock pinch with glory nocks on the Dloop so I have to get a new D-loop installed to account for the thicker nock.

Once I get the new Dloop installed and nock point level then I can start bare shaft tuning with the different weights to see which ones are flying best out of the gate?

Once the weight is determined, then I should nock tune each bareshaft?
Then add wings, then broadhead tune?

Is this correct?

With this set up. If you cut the arrow to 26.5 you could use either tip weight. If you decide to leave around 27 then the 300 should show high nock. But not much.

Very important bow needs set up first. Everything in spec. Cam timing, cam sync. Set rest that bow you can’t set power stroke. So square rest to riser.

[Beargrasstx]

Just got set up and paper tuned
Bowtech Assassin
150 gr inserts with 125 gr broadhead
TAW 556
FOC 19%
350 gr head flew like a bullet. Perfect at 219 fps

The 275 gr head flew dang near perfect as well so I went with that set up at 233 fps.

I may go back to 350 later but for now easier to find 125gr heads to attach to 150 gr inserts

DL 27
DW65
Arrow length 28
Black eagle rampage

I walked back tuned out to 20yds

Still need to broadhead tune vs fieldpoint. Excited to nail something with this set up

[Beargrasstx]

I also did not bareshaft. I was at the bow shop and we shot through paper. I walked back tuned from 3 yds to 10yds. Then I adjusted Sight elevation for 20

[IkemanTX]

@enewman @rocky
What do y’all think about these tears?

Went to the bow shop and had a new string put on, and everything “brought into spec”.

It started out tearing WILDLY low and a little right (right handed), so I lowered the rest what little it would lower and raised the nock height. It quickly came into level. Then, I moved the rest a small bit away from the riser and the 300 spine started shooting bullets. The 250 tears right and a little high.

I shot through paper at 5 feet, 8 feet, and 12 feet and this is how they looked.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rocky]

If your bow is timed correctly, your arrow should be level, and if you’re not torquing the bow, and you top cam is straight at full draw, your arrow should be square to the riser. Level, and middle. I still think your bow is a little out. In most cases, a nock low tear indicates stiff. Of course I’m assuming rest is timed properly also. A setup that tears like those wouldn’t leave my shop unless there was some defect that I couldn’t fix.

[muddyfuzzy]

@enewman @rocky
What do y’all think about these tears?

Went to the bow shop and had a new string put on, and everything “brought into spec”.

It started out tearing WILDLY low and a little right (right handed), so I lowered the rest what little it would lower and raised the nock height. It quickly came into level. Then, I moved the rest a small bit away from the riser and the 300 spine started shooting bullets. The 250 tears right and a little high.

I shot through paper at 5 feet, 8 feet, and 12 feet and this is how they looked.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brought to “spec” generally means the bow is making the specified peak weight, draw length, axle to axle and brace measurements. Cam starting rotation and sync is a totally different discussion. If one of the cams is advanced or retarded this will cause poor vertical nock travel and subsequent vertical tearing. Moving the rest is just covering up the underlying issue, same for moving the nocking point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[IkemanTX]

Brought to “spec” generally means the bow is making the specified peak weight, draw length, axle to axle and brace measurements. Cam starting rotation and sync is a totally different discussion. If one of the cams is advanced or retarded this will cause poor vertical nock travel and subsequent vertical tearing. Moving the rest is just covering up the underlying issue, same for moving the nocking point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I specifically talked with the guy at the shop about rest placement, nock location, cam timing etc... he was well aware that I had narrowed down the issue to cam timing. Hopefully I didn’t waste $50 on having him work on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Javelin]

I specifically talked with the guy at the shop about rest placement, nock location, cam timing etc... he was well aware that I had narrowed down the issue to cam timing. Hopefully I didn’t waste $50 on having him work on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am no expert at all, however looking at those tears and if the bow shop said you were good I would go find a different shop that will actually take time with you there shooting the bow to get it dialed in perfectly. There are lots and lots of bow shops out there that are good places to shop but have zero skill at tuning a bow. Most bow hunters IMO shoot bows that are extremely out of tune and not at all close to their correct draw length. This has included me in the past till I started learning more and more about it.

[Low Fence]

Just my opinion on paper:

If done by correct person, it’s extremely useful. Fact is MOST can’t shoot a bullet hole with a tuned bow, due to multiple issues. But it’s a fact

The notion of “tune to your quirks” is garbage and BS. there is a small grey area on both sides of perfect that you CAN do that.. but most fall outside that.... it’s why we shoot fletching

Don’t chase your tail too long on this bare shaft of arrow flight is good and shoots BH and FP together at 40+ yards

JMHO