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question about arrowflight....Corkscrewing?

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    #1

    question about arrowflight....Corkscrewing?

    got the Kodiak rigged up....at my draw its pulling about 53-54# at my draw.

    Ordered 12 Black Eagle instinct arrows, 400 spine with the 100 grain outsert up front, 150 grain point and left full length. by my calculations its about 550 grains overall.

    This is the same arrow in 400 spine that I shoot in my Grizzly with 500 spine. They fly like darts out of the grizzly.

    My question:

    Few things different about this bow...for one it has a feather rest vs. the off the shelf design of the grizzly. took a little bit to get used to but it works fine. I also had to fletch these arrows in a different color pattern than the other. I'll get back to this point later.


    When shooting this it appears that the back end corkscrews in flight, counter clockwise. I'm shooting a right helical fletch. the arrows go where i intend them so accuracy isn't an issue. Not every single arrow appears to do this but I'd say 1 out of 3. Broadhead tested it and it flys right where i want it too.


    I read online and didn't find much help.....I bring up fletching color because a few people had the same issue and a common answer was it was a optical illusion due to the contrast in fletching color ( mine are pink and a "peacock" color that is mainly white, with a teal wrap ) and its not actually corkscrewing.


    Anyone have any insight on this?
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    #2
    Some diagnostic questions:

    1. What do the bareshafts say?
    2. have you ruled out a bad arrow? Mark the one that corkscrews
    3. Can you rule out a release hand issue? Plucks, collapses, double clutches, etc, can all change the dynamic tiller of the bow and cause a nocking point or spine issue on a given shot.

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Trumpkin View Post
      Some diagnostic questions:

      1. What do the bareshafts say?
      2. have you ruled out a bad arrow? Mark the one that corkscrews
      3. Can you rule out a release hand issue? Plucks, collapses, double clutches, etc, can all change the dynamic tiller of the bow and cause a nocking point or spine issue on a given shot.
      I can usually tell if it’s a bad release as the arrow kicks out a certain way.

      A bad release I wouldn’t think would cause a counter clockwise corkscrew

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by txtrophy85 View Post
        I can usually tell if it’s a bad release as the arrow kicks out a certain way.

        A bad release I wouldn’t think would cause a counter clockwise corkscrew
        It can if it changes the nock height and causes the back end of the arrow to kick off the shelf.

        Comment

          #5
          At 53-54# and 250 grains on the front of a 34” arrow shaft (instincts come 34”) I’m gonna say your too weak. By a lot. I can get arrows on the weak side to fly with broadheads where they need to go but any glitch in my release and they do some wacky crap. I would suggest bareshafting them paying attention to the impact of the bareshaft compared to fletched. If you are right handed I would bet that thing hits to the right. Another cause for cork screwing is normally the nocking point is too low or high. The arrow ramps off the shelf or rest and begins to porpoise. While the helical is trying to spin the arrow it makes it corkscrew.

          Comment

            #6
            drop your tip weight and see what happens, that is the easiest thing to do so do it first

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by xman59 View Post
              drop your tip weight and see what happens, that is the easiest thing to do so do it first
              You think it’s too heavy up front? I have some 125 grain heads

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by KenWood View Post
                At 53-54# and 250 grains on the front of a 34” arrow shaft (instincts come 34”) I’m gonna say your too weak. By a lot. I can get arrows on the weak side to fly with broadheads where they need to go but any glitch in my release and they do some wacky crap. I would suggest bareshafting them paying attention to the impact of the bareshaft compared to fletched. If you are right handed I would bet that thing hits to the right. Another cause for cork screwing is normally the nocking point is too low or high. The arrow ramps off the shelf or rest and begins to porpoise. While the helical is trying to spin the arrow it makes it corkscrew.
                Arrows are 30” long not counting nock and field point

                Before I do anything I’m gonna adjust the nock point and see what happens

                Comment

                  #9
                  That's what I always do too.

                  Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Now that season is thru I’m gonna mess with the Kodiak more. It’s a tad louder than the Grizzly but a lot faster and I just like the bow. It’s probably going to be my go-to rig for next year.

                    I’ll adjust knock and bare shaft and see what happens.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by txtrophy85 View Post
                      You think it’s too heavy up front? I have some 125 grain heads
                      not really sure but it is an easy thing to change out to see,,

                      Comment

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