Trailer Purchase Opinions Needed

[paigers01]

I recently sold a heavy-duty 16' utility trailer in an attempt to downsize to something more practical for my needs. I will be purchasing a new one soon, and need y'alls opinions on what I should get. I'm looking at either a 12' or a 14', in either single axle or tandem axle. It will be used for general work around the deer lease to haul corn, brush, stands, feeders, etc. Please let me know the pros and cons of each option, along with brands and dealers that you recommend. Thanks!

[powderburner]

12' tandem
10K pound jack
Led lights
ramps that go under
powder coated
buddy bearings
bull dog hitch
tie downs all over welded to the frame
2" pipe frame
G rated tires 16"
I am sure there are more.. But this is my quick list.

[paigers01]

12' tandem
10K pound jack
Led lights
ramps that go under
powder coated
buddy bearings
bull dog hitch
tie downs all over welded to the frame
2" pipe frame
G rated tires 16"
I am sure there are more.. But this is my quick list.

Thank you!


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[bboswell]

^^^Why a 10k jack for a trailer with a max tongue weight of around 1K?

OP sound like a std 12’ single axle would fit your needs fine, if you wanted a little bigger a 14’ tandem would work too.

You want heavy duty enough to handle your expected loads but not so over rated that it is harder to pull and maneuver which I assume was the reason you got rid of the 16’

[S-3 Ranch]

Small heavy duty

12' tandem
10K pound jack
Led lights
ramps that go under
powder coated
buddy bearings
bull dog hitch
tie downs all over welded to the frame
2" pipe frame
G rated tires 16"
I am sure there are more.. But this is my quick list.

All good things ^^^^^^
My current trailer carried my excavator 14ft
Tandem 7k axels with surge braking ( hate them will go electric )
G rated tires ( 50psi normal) (100psi heavy)
Air tank on tongue ( with snap on hose in toolbox)
Large double lid toolbox In very front ( for grease, battery charger, rope, boomers, large coil heavy gauge slick wire ,ect)
Welded on small toolbox for chains and ratchet straps on left side
Spare tire right side
Extra extra heavy duty steel ramps slid under the trailer ( would like to change them as way to heavy and unpractical)
Big enough for 3 pallets of feed or small tractor, hoe ,skid loader
Small enough to maneuver around a ranch roads

IMO if using a trailer in heavy brush/ ranch use invest in some magnetic brake/ turn signal lights and bolt the license plate to the fender ( every trailer I have ever owned losses them or the wiring goes out) also carry a cheater bar and 4way lug, 20 ton bottle jack and spare wheel bearing set in TB

P.s has a mount for winch

And forgot that you are downsizing I would go buy a light duty tandem axle trailer and pull the lights and slap on some real tires ( factory trailer tires are useless garbage)

[S-3 Ranch]

^^^Why a 10k jack for a trailer with a max tongue weight of around 1K?

OP sound like a std 12’ single axle would fit your needs fine, if you wanted a little bigger a 14’ tandem would work too.

You want heavy duty enough to handle your expected loads but not so over rated that it is harder to pull and maneuver which I assume was the reason you got rid of the 16’

2000lbs trailer jack (pivoting) not though frame
Metal basket for tractor jack and some wood tire blocks/jack base

[brushtrooper]

In a 83"wide x 14'long I personally would go with a Diamond C PSA with the set back 7k drop leg jack, full wrap tongue and a 5 hole adjustable coupler with a 2-5/16" Demco coupler. I would put tiedown bars spaced every 2' down each side and 2 in the front. I would go with a tongue box for storage, side mount spare, 1-5,200lb axle with brakes and a bifold ramp gate. I would most likely fill the sides with expanded metal, square tube top rail over round tubing(pipe) or angle iron top rail and I would add a winch plate-2" receiver in the front. The 5200 lb axle gives you a good heavy 8 ply 15" tire, stout suspension and less maintenance over a tandem axle of many years of owner ship. While your at it, look at the 5200lb torsion axles..thats the ticket right there.
Whatever brand you go with I would make sure it is primed/powder coated and sealed wiring harness.
When price comparing, make sure to consider the frame design channel or angle iron same on crossmembers, coupler, jack, if the boards are screwed down to crossmembers(on 24" center) or laid in and capped on each end to capture them, brand of axle and of course the paint or powder coat method.

[paigers01]

I appreciate the advice guys, y’all have definitely given me some good ideas.


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[powderburner]

^^^Why a 10k jack for a trailer with a max tongue weight of around 1K?

OP sound like a std 12’ single axle would fit your needs fine, if you wanted a little bigger a 14’ tandem would work too.

You want heavy duty enough to handle your expected loads but not so over rated that it is harder to pull and maneuver which I assume was the reason you got rid of the 16’

If you go with a 10K jack it will be frame mounted. It will mount at the front of the bed. not out on the end closer to the tongue. The 2-4K tongue jack will work but. The 10K makes it so much easier to raise and lower with a load on.


something like this,
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jac...2000SP-R2.html.

[powderburner]

I would also go tandem. 16' is to long to load a pallet of corn with a fork lift easily. 12' you could get 2 4x4 pallets of corn. each pallet weighs 2K lbs. so you are at 4K with 7K axle. tandem gives you better weight distribution and support for heavy loads.

[powderburner]

driving down the road this weekend.
Electric breaks
All lights and plate mounted inside some sort of protective holder.
All wires run inside pipe or some other conduit. Not just tied to the frame.