Gun Room with Hardiebacker

[btreybig]

Building a new home and putting in a gun room. Thinking of putting Hardiebacker board inside and outside of the room instead of using Sheetrock. Idea is to be able the room as a gun safe room with a steel door instead of using a actual gun safe. HardieBacker is heat resistant as to Sheetrock. Local fire department is 10 miles away. Has anyone ever used hardiebacker in place of Sheetrock? How did it work out for you? Any other suggestions on types of sheeting for a gun room?


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[Txhunter3000]

Originally Posted by btreybig

Building a new home and putting in a gun room. Thinking of putting Hardiebacker board inside and outside of the room instead of using Sheetrock. Idea is to be able the room as a gun safe room with a steel door instead of using a actual gun safe. HardieBacker is heat resistant as to Sheetrock. Local fire department is 10 miles away. Has anyone ever used hardiebacker in place of Sheetrock? How did it work out for you? Any other suggestions on types of sheeting for a gun room?


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Budget? Theft or fire? Had a friend line a closet with 1/4" steel years ago with a steel door. I always thought the door was the weak link.

[ken800]

There are companies that make plywood like sheets that are basically fire rated like safe walls and are bullet-resistant. They aren't cheap, though. If I were going to go to the trouble of building a gun room instead of a safe, I'd want to make sure a person with a sawzall can't just go around your vault door which is what you'll have with plywood and/or sheetrock combinations. If you are on a concrete slab and open floorplan with extra room to spare, I'd build it with concrete blocks with cement/rebar and line with with something fireproof.

[erikm1981]

Originally Posted by ken800

There are companies that make plywood like sheets that are basically fire rated like safe walls and are bullet-resistant. They aren't cheap, though. If I were going to go to the trouble of building a gun room instead of a safe, I'd want to make sure a person with a sawzall can't just go around your vault door which is what you'll have with plywood and/or sheetrock combinations. If you are on a concrete slab and open floorplan with extra room to spare, I'd build it with concrete blocks with cement/rebar and line with with something fireproof.

This is the way to go, and most economical. Just make that room out of cmu and you can still Sheetrock over it so no one knows.


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[Take Dead Aim]

It depends on what the value is you're trying to protect. Hardie is not stopping fire or a thief. I have built two for myself. One with 1" steel plate and a 16" concrete floor with rebar on 8" centers and triple mat. The other with 10" concrete walls double mat rebar. Both are probably overkill but they works as storm shelters too. I also own a few valuables that I dont want to go missing. I own a construction company so I am saving money doing it in house.

[Ryanm]

I would think about water as well. My brother's roof caught fire and the water/smoke did more damage than the fire. Not sure the answer...maybe use something similar to Red Guard? It's for waterproofing behind tile in showers.

[Drycreek3189]

Originally Posted by ken800

There are companies that make plywood like sheets that are basically fire rated like safe walls and are bullet-resistant. They aren't cheap, though. If I were going to go to the trouble of building a gun room instead of a safe, I'd want to make sure a person with a sawzall can't just go around your vault door which is what you'll have with plywood and/or sheetrock combinations. If you are on a concrete slab and open floorplan with extra room to spare, I'd build it with concrete blocks with cement/rebar and line with with something fireproof.

This would be your storm room too !

Oops, Dead Aim beat me to it.

[tazhunter0]

I would go with steel plate or concrete rebar walls, ceiling and floor with a thick steel door frame and door.

[btreybig]

Originally Posted by Txhunter3000

Budget? Theft or fire? Had a friend line a closet with 1/4" steel years ago with a steel door. I always thought the door was the weak link.

Not on a tight budget but slab is already poured. So already past the concrete stage. My thought is a room equivalent too a 45-60 min gun safe. Steel door will have a bio-metric key pad or something equivalent. Just more worried about the fire aspect of it all.


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[Thickman]

.

[3ChordTruth]

Originally Posted by Take Dead Aim

It depends on what the value is you're trying to protect. Hardie is not stopping fire or a thief. I have built two for myself. One with 1" steel plate and a 16" concrete floor with rebar on 8" centers and triple mat. The other with 10" concrete walls double mat rebar. Both are probably overkill but they works as storm shelters too. I also own a few valuables that I dont want to go missing. I own a construction company so I am saving money doing it in house.

X2

I like this idea, sure would be nice to have this.

[aggieman12]

Originally Posted by btreybig

Building a new home and putting in a gun room. Thinking of putting Hardiebacker board inside and outside of the room instead of using Sheetrock. Idea is to be able the room as a gun safe room with a steel door instead of using a actual gun safe. HardieBacker is heat resistant as to Sheetrock. Local fire department is 10 miles away. Has anyone ever used hardiebacker in place of Sheetrock? How did it work out for you? Any other suggestions on types of sheeting for a gun room?


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Refer to the different UL listed fire rated wall assemblies. I don’t think you will get the rating out of hardibacker that 5/8” type x drywall will get you. Your wall assembly will only matter if your ceiling and door assemblies are rated the same. Achieving a 2 hour fire rated room with drywall is easy - getting a 2 hour door and achieving adequate security can be tricky.

A fully grouted 8” CMU wall will get you a 4 hr rating.

[Craw3773]

Sheetrock will protect against fire. Cement board will not. No, it doesn't burn, but the heat transfers right through it. 5/8" sheetrock is best for fire

[Kong]

Just go underground, my gun room is under the house and is a 10X15 room with a 1 1/2” safe door to get into it. Anything above ground is going to require a lot of concrete and rebar to protect it.

[MIHunter]

Following

[tps7742]

Originally Posted by Take Dead Aim

It depends on what the value is you're trying to protect. Hardie is not stopping fire or a thief. I have built two for myself. One with 1" steel plate and a 16" concrete floor with rebar on 8" centers and triple mat. The other with 10" concrete walls double mat rebar. Both are probably overkill but they works as storm shelters too. I also own a few valuables that I dont want to go missing. I own a construction company so I am saving money doing it in house.

This! This is an open forum as we all know.

[Txhunter3000]

Originally Posted by btreybig

Not on a tight budget but slab is already poured. So already past the concrete stage. My thought is a room equivalent too a 45-60 min gun safe. Steel door will have a bio-metric key pad or something equivalent. Just more worried about the fire aspect of it all.


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You could do 4" 16 gauge metal studs for walls and ceiling with double layer of 5/8" firecode sheetrock with mineral wool insulation. I know someone will barge in and say why 16 ga. and it's because I don't know the room size and span.

[Strummer]

There was a thread a few years ago about a gun safe room . Was pretty awesome.

[Txarrowhunter]

This one is built out out of 8” blocks with 5/8 rebar in every hole filled with 5000psi concrete all the way around. Ceiling is 8” concrete top. With 1/2” rebar 12x12” centers. Slab was already poured for this one but it’s tied in with 5/8 rebar drilled into the slab at an angle and then bent straight into the blocks. Was a little under $10k including vault door. 8’x10’ only wish I’d made it bigger.





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[Txarrowhunter]

Originally Posted by Txarrowhunter

This one is built out out of 8” blocks with 5/8 rebar in every hole filled with 5000psi concrete all the way around. Ceiling is 8” concrete top. With 1/2” rebar 12x12” centers. Slab was already poured for this one but it’s tied in with 5/8 rebar drilled into the slab at an angle and then bent straight into the blocks. Was a little under $10k including vault door. 8’x10’ only wish I’d made it bigger.





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Roof top is 6” thick not 8” and it has 5/8” rebar at 12” centers. It was poured all at same time as walls.

[Txhunter3000]

Originally Posted by Txarrowhunter

Roof top is 6” thick not 8” and it has 5/8” rebar at 12” centers. It was poured all at same time as walls.

Hopefully the slab was designed with the gun room walls in mind.

[Bruiser]

i have a hammer lol you need cinder block rebar and concrete

[Txarrowhunter]

Originally Posted by Txhunter3000

Hopefully the slab was designed with the gun room walls in mind.

Yes sir. Has 14”x30” beam all the way around and our fireplace does too.