I am sure there are a few on here, but I was not able to find any. Has any one ever made a feeder that you were able to mount to your atv? If so can you please post or PM with some instructions on how you did it? I have a Yamaha Kodiak 450, and would like to put a simple feeder that i am able to take on and off of it.
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You can buy one for $149 at Sportsman's warehouse that's made by HCR and is pretty good; or you can make one yourself prety darn easy if you have access to a welder. I'm building a small one, right now, for my new truck and I'll be happy to help you out, if you want. Just email me (Horitexan@gmail.com) or call me at: 512-587-8651. I'm headed to the ranch tomorrow so I may be hard to reach until I get back on Sunday afternoon.
Basically, here's what you do:
1. Find a small metal drum or container that will be the right size for your needs. I'm using a 15-gallon steel drum that I get from Lambs Tire near my house- they get their transmission fluid in these drums and they're the perfect size for small hanging feeders or small lease tailgate feeders.
2. Buy a spinner plate and cone/funnel from someone like Cabelas or Bass Pro. Here's combo kit that Cabelas has for $13!
3. Buy a 12-volt motor from some place like Grainger. I use the Dayton 2M197 12-volt PMDC motor from Grainger. It costs $30.74 Call them, if you have one near you, and and give them that description and they can tell you if that store has 'em in stock.
4. Cut a hole in the bottom CENTER of the drum that's the same size as (or slightly smaller than) the INSIDE dimension of the cone/funnel where it attaches to the bottom of the drum. Then secure the cone using galvanized bolts and nuts.
5. Build a metal bracket that will hold the motor DIRECTLY under the cone/funnel so that the spinner plate (when attached to the shaft of the motor) will sit 1/8"-1/4" below the bottom of the cone/funnel. This allows the corn to come out of the cone/funnel easily, when the plate is spinning; but not SO easily that it pours out on it's own. When it's set-up, you can shim the motor & plate assembly down (or up) to adjust the amount/rate of corn being dispersed. Also, I build in a little back-stop, using sheet metal, to shield tailgate from the corn when the feeder is running
6. How you attach it to your ATV will depend on what you want to do- if you have a receiver hitch, I'd use that so that it will be easier to remove. This is what I'm doing. Take a length of square tubing that fits the receiver tube (you can use a reciever extender from an auto parts store) and then weld on a 3' (or whatever height your container is) upright of square tubing onto one end of the tubing that fits your reciever. Weld two brackets to the upright so that you can run 4 bolts (on on each side of upright at, both, top and bottom of upright) so that you can attach your container. Make sure to attach the brackets so that they sit fairly flush against the container- s you don't warp it when you bolt it on! Now attach your container.
7. There are a MYRIAD of ways to wire it, depending on your preference. You can connect it to a trailer tow connector (if you have one) and run it off your turn signal; so it goes off each time your blinker blinks.You can wire it to your battery with a toggle switch or button to complete the circuit and power the motor. OR you can try the new wireless remote that they carry at Cabelas, for $30, in combination with your battery as the power source! I don't know how well this new thing works, yet, but I'm going to try it on my new truck to see.
All-told, you should be able to build one for a lot less, than you could buy one, that's easy to repair and built to YOUR specifications, rather than to someone else's! To me, it's worth the time and I'll have a lot sturdier feeder than I could ever buy.
I hope this helps a little. Like I said, call me or email me and I can clarify anything you don't understand and I can draw you up some little diagrams to explain anything that's still unclear.
Best of luck!
Nick -
Just to let you know Grainger is discontinueing the Dayton Motors!Comment
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I have a 4x8 sheet of 14ga galvanized that I am gonna make one out of soon.Comment
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Here is a barrel that should work well.
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I bought a Moultree feeder/spreader from Wal-Mart after season last year for 54.00. Regular price is 100.00+. Has square tubing brackets that mount with u-bolts on the front or back rack and the hopper slides in and out of the tubing. Comes ready to go with a switch and alligator clips to hook to your power source.Comment
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I like that moultrie and it is probably much eaiser than building one. Thanks.Comment
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I made one out of a straight shooter motor and a five gallon bucket.put it on the back or front and could take it on and off. $40 bucks in the hole rig.you can hang or put on top of your rack and ratchet strap it down.Comment
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I saw one, and I think it was here on TBH, that was made out of a large military ammo can. Maybe a 20mm canComment
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Military Grade Road Feeder
I think this is the one Walker is refering to, I built this guy right before last season and it has worked GREAT so far! Good luck!
LouieComment
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Military Grade Road Feeder
I think this is the one Walker is refering to, I built this guy right before last season and it has worked GREAT so far! Good luck!
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...ead.php?t=3074
LouieComment
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I built my own with just a simple bracket to hold to my rack and a slide at the bottom with a heavy duty spring to close it. It works great but I think ill try to find a way to put a spinner on it...Comment
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