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Outside Spigot Leaking In Wall When Turned On

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    #16
    Chisel out brick, cut off spigot, use a Sharkbite spigot to replace. Mortar brick back it.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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      #17
      If it is one of the frost free units as noted above, it will often break between the valve and the exterior so that it only leaks when turned on as the faucet valve is back in the wall. if you left the hose on it while the freeze was happening it will keep the water from draining out and cause the unit behind the faucet to freeze. Learned this my first winter up north! Good luck

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        #18
        Originally posted by pontiac View Post
        You may have a frost proof spigot.
        If it is and was threaded in you may be able to unthread it and change it out with new one. If it was sweated in you will have to access the end inside the house to replace.
        Yeah i sure wouldnt start busting up anything before i got a pipe wrench and tried to remove and replace the spigot with no damage.

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          #19
          Just don't turn it on!! Sorry, I'm no help. free bump

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            #20
            Originally posted by Electrican View Post
            I now have 2 Spigots that are leaking and can't get them to stop dripping. Dont think they are busted from what I can see. Can these be repaired without replacing the whole spigot? If not how do I get them replaced as they are sweated on inside the brick?
            On this model it looks like you can change the gasket/o-ring inside the faucet. Under the handle you have the packing nut and under that is where you put a wrench on to unscrew the valve assembly from the valve. Once out you can look at the seat to see if there is a groove. If there is no groove in the seat you should be able to replace the gasket/o-ring with one from a real hardware store or plumbing supply.

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              #21
              Originally posted by W-O View Post
              On this model it looks like you can change the gasket/o-ring inside the faucet. Under the handle you have the packing nut and under that is where you put a wrench on to unscrew the valve assembly from the valve. Once out you can look at the seat to see if there is a groove. If there is no groove in the seat you should be able to replace the gasket/o-ring with one from a real hardware store or plumbing supply.
              That's what I was hoping for. Just wasn't sure if they were serviceable. Any idea what size gasket/o-ring I would need?

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                #22
                Originally posted by LFD2037 View Post
                How much force should I use to try to unscrew it? I don't want to bust the pipe itself!


                I knew this & still failed to remove it. It's all on me.
                Use a pipe wench, it will take a little force but it will unscrew,(you don't have to cut drywall or take out the brick) The fitting it screws into in the wall should be mounted to a 2x4 in the wall. I have changed many of these.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Bassdeer View Post
                  Use a pipe wench, it will take a little force but it will unscrew,(you don't have to cut drywall or take out the brick) The fitting it screws into in the wall should be mounted to a 2x4 in the wall. I have changed many of these.
                  I can move the spigot around. It doesn't feel attached to anything inside.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Electrican View Post
                    That's what I was hoping for. Just wasn't sure if they were serviceable. Any idea what size gasket/o-ring I would need?
                    Hardware store sells a package of rubber washers with several different sizes. Get one and figure out the size with that and then if you need to buy more you’ll know what size. Easiest way to figure it out.

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                      #25
                      I tried w/my hands to loosen it & I could tell it was tweaking/twisting something inside the wall. I got it to twist about 1/4" & when I let go it snapped back into the prior position so I'm afraid to tweak it more.

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                        #26
                        Just use a haligon tool. If’n it breaks, it needs replaced anyway.




                        Thought you was a trained professional.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by LFD2037 View Post
                          I tried w/my hands to loosen it & I could tell it was tweaking/twisting something inside the wall. I got it to twist about 1/4" & when I let go it snapped back into the prior position so I'm afraid to tweak it more.
                          If your not sure and for piece of mind, cut the sheetrock out and see what your dealing with.

                          Should be a fitting like this in there
                          Last edited by Bassdeer; 02-20-2021, 06:04 PM.

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                            #28
                            Two options. Either cut Sheetrock from inside or chisel out brick mortar. If it’s in a closet just cut a square 14” & replace with pop in place access panel otherwise repair Sheetrock
                            I’d cut copper tubing & put in place coupling with PEX cold line & insert through brick & use shark bite hose bib

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Buckshot-73 View Post
                              Just use a haligon tool. If’n it breaks, it needs replaced anyway.




                              Thought you was a trained professional.

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                                #30
                                So I cut the Sheetrock from the inside and discovered it is screwed to a 2x4. I went back out to see if I could loosen it, using a crescent wrench. I got it to turn maybe 1/5th of a turn and water started squirting out of not only the wall but the spigot end as well (where you hook a hose). I didn’t turn the main water off as I was just trying to see if I could turn it any. I’m confused as to why water was coming out of the hose attachment hole when I didn’t turn the
                                handle to make the water flow? I won’t have time to mess with it again until Thursday but when I do, should I continue to try to twist it? Or do I remove more Sheetrock and try to hold the attachment at the 2x4? I’ll turn the main water off and I’ll have a shark bite cap ready in case it snaps off.

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