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    Question for the Trad Experts

    So I’m shooting a Pronghorn Custom 62” 56#@28” longbow. Very good shooter to me. My compound draw length is 29.5 so I’m Gettin ga lil more draw weight on this longbow I know.
    My questions are; would Cabelas stalker extreme 400s with 150g heads sufficient, if not what extra weight should be added?
    Arrows are full length still, do they need to be cut down?

    #2
    Also fletched them last night. 4” black and white feathers. Used a straight clamp bc I don’t any left/right helical.



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      #3
      At that draw weight, you probably won’t have to add any more weight to a .400 spine shaft. A lot of it depends on what your DL is, and how long the arrows need to be to tune correctly. I shoot a .400 spine shaft, full length, with 225gr up front from my 50ish # bows at my 29”DL.

      Only some sort of tuning will tell you for sure what you need to do to the arrow to make it tune best.

      Bisch


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        #4
        Yes you will need to cut them if you use 150gr points and are drawing 29”. Find a bare shaft tuning video and follow it. Make sure you only cut a little at a time. I have basically the same bow specs and I had to cut 400 spine arrows pretty short to get them to work with 150 grain points

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          #5
          Sounds good gentlemen. Thanks

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            #6
            I have no clue where the shelf is cut on that bow. Sometimes longbows are cut well short of center and will cause an arrow to fly stiff. You can measure it or use the spine calculator on 3 Rivers Archery website to see how that arrow matches.

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              #7
              I would definitely start with a bareshaft comparison I shoot two fletched and one bareshaft to see the tune...then adjust (point weight for to stiff, arrow length for to weak) from there..until the bareshaft matches the fletched arrows...there is so much that goes into the tune it is hard to tell where you will end up just from the specs you laid out. But I would bet you can get those arrows to tune no problem.


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                #8
                Good info. Thanks. Will keep on trying to get it right

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                  #9
                  This is the way I tune mine. Been using this method for many years.

                  http://www.acsbows.com/bare-shaft-planing.

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                    #10
                    Herb makes a great bow, hope you're enjoying it.
                    Pretty sure it would like some tapered sitka spruce or doug fir arrows with 125 gr field points and broadheads.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by wytex View Post
                      Herb makes a great bow, hope you're enjoying it.
                      Pretty sure it would like some tapered sitka spruce or doug fir arrows with 125 gr field points and broadheads.
                      It is a nice shooting bow. I do enjoy it even at a higher draw weight. I’ll look into those arrows.

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                        #12
                        Sorry, just couldn't let all the carbon arrow talk go on without some love for wooden arrows.
                        Been shooting doug fir, sitka spruce and Alaska yellow cedar for years. My current hunting arrows are bois d'arc footed doug fir shafts.
                        Got to shoot a Pronghorn longbow way back about 25 years ago, I bet they're still pretty nice. Herb is a big supporter of Bowhunters of Wyoming.
                        Spouse used to pull about that weight and kept the points at 125 grs.

                        If you're ever in the market for an other longbow look into Predator Longbows in Muenster. Robert makes a great shooting carbon limb longbow.

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                          #13
                          I would love to have some wood arrows. Shooting traditional means traditional everything to me! If I continue and get deeper into trad bows, I will eventually get some to play with too. I just had a bunch of extra carbon arrows sitting around to use for now.

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