Wear and Tear/Field marks on your bow

[DRT]

I'd start out with some really fine grit.

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[60 Deluxe]

I use 600 for feathering. 1000 for flattening finish.

[widdler]

If it is not getting dinged your not using it enough.

[txtrophy85]

I tried to repair it with 800 grit sandpaper and super glue.

Pretty ugly patch job but it’s adding character right?

[DRT]

Pics or it didn't happen

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[crc]

It's called character, not dings

[60 Deluxe]

I tried to repair it with 800 grit sandpaper and super glue.

Pretty ugly patch job but it’s adding character right?

If it's ugly, you aren't finished. Post a pic and I might be able to explain how to complete the job.

[txtrophy85]

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[60 Deluxe]

I'm hoping that top picture is after putting the glue on and the bottom is after using the 800 grit. You are getting there. That little white spot towards the top of the repair can be hidden with a black fine point sharpie. From what I can see, that line is a little lower than the area just ahead and behind it. Another line of glue built up higher than the surrounding surfaces, cured, then lightly sanded using a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of wood will fix that if it bothers you. Follow the flat on the surface of the limb. If you are afraid of scuffing across the limb, stick a piece of thin tape on to protect the finish. Once you have that nice and flat you will have to carefully and gently strike a line on the side of the limb using that same sandpaper and wood block. Go slow and short strokes within the repair area, trying not to get outside of the repair area. When you are satisfied with the side, feather the two ends into the areas outside of the repair area, dust it off and clean it with some rubbing alcohol, spray or rub on some finish, let it cure good and hard then buff it. I cheat by using a cotton wheel and a cordless drill for buffing. You can use toothpaste, Meguiars fine cut polishing compound, fine jewelers rouge, or Tru Oil sheen remover to help the cotton wheel do the work. Go easy with the buffing or you will burn the finish or make it shine like glass.

i forgot to mention that I use very thin CA glue and an insulin syringe to lay it down.

[Bjankowski]

I still have and hunt with my 1972 Herters, CV17 International -60" 50@28. Not a scratch or ding on it. I shoot it almost every day. Still as strong as the day it was new. My 3D bow is also a Herters, right not a scratch or ding.

I'm sure it's older than most of you guys on here.

[DRT]

Idk Bob. I'd say a large percentage of us are 50+. Several 60 and up. Younger folks don't like to work this hard to be good at it. That's why we try to help, encourage and celebrate those younger folks who are into trad. The last couple of years we've seen quite a few and some ladies too. It cool to see new faces and voices here.

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[60 Deluxe]

The depth of finish on that Herters makes me think that BowDoc or Rich Lopez sprayed it with Fullerplast. Normal factory bows didn't look that good.

[Bjankowski]

The depth of finish on that Herters makes me think that BowDoc or Rich Lopez sprayed it with Fullerplast. Normal factory bows didn't look that good.

you're probably right bro, my 3D Herters Perfection Sambar still looks good but not the depth my hunting bow has.

[Bjankowski]

Idk Bob. I'd say a large percentage of us are 50+. Several 60 and up. Younger folks don't like to work this hard to be good at it. That's why we try to help, encourage and celebrate those younger folks who are into trad. The last couple of years we've seen quite a few and some ladies too. It cool to see new faces and voices here.

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I agree bro, I think Trad is something most of us started with back in the day, and nothing else replaces that love. I did the compound bow thing for a few years, just not the same. If I don't hunt with trad I do enjoy pistol hunting, more of a challenge.