Know Motors/bandsaws - help!!???

[Leon County Slayer]

I have a really old metal cutting bandsaw that looks like it was rebuilt or custom fabricated several years ago. I can cut a lot of metal with it and make some dandy knives with it but I know nothing about motors! (or electricity for that matter)

The wheel turns when I grab the wheel and give it a spin but after trying to cut something it stops spinning at the one motor (or whatever it is haaa) I'll post a pic below but I can't get a read on anything besides: Baldor and it's rated at 1750 rpm's. Please pm if you're in the area and could take a look.

[Leon County Slayer]

First is the bandsaw with another motor in front of this one.

Second pic is the motor and third

[mavrick]

Start Capacitor.

[Kossetx]

well, your verbiage or pics aren't all that clear but start capacitor would be a good start if your have to kick start it. if it won't stay running could be the motor, belt, blade size or pulley. With a motor that has oil ports i'm thinking its the motor.

[Leon County Slayer]

Start Capacitor.

well, your verbiage or pics aren't all that clear but start capacitor would be a good start if your have to kick start it. if it won't stay running could be the motor, belt, blade size or pulley. With a motor that has oil ports i'm thinking its the motor.

Thanks. I’ll try to figure out where to begin with the start capacitor. Won’t be blade, pulley or belts. I’ve run it with it opened up and just looks like it doesn’t want to get spinning or keep spinning.

[double bogey]

That motor will be easy to replace, motor shop will have it, or repair that one.

[spidermonkey]

The second pic is a gear reducer that has the 4L-450 belt on it. If your motor is directly bolted to that gearbox, and the actual motor is turning, but that pulley in 2nd pic is not, you could have a bad gearbox. By just what I’m seeing in the pics it’s hard to say what’s going on. I can say that the motor in pic 1 was “added” and not OEM. They are prob using the gear reducer to slow down the speed/give you a lot more torque. If I was there we could get it figured out, but... Wish you were closer... I’ve worked on and ran this kinda stuff for the last 30 yrs. and wish I could be more help, but I ain’t “seeing the whole story” in the pics, and your description has me abit confused too. Oh, the other comments could be spot on as well. Very well could be a capacitor problem. Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty

[spidermonkey]

A better way to say it may be; what is being rotated by the 4L-450 belt on the end opposite of the gearbox pulley in the pic? And is that add on motor sticking out the side/back turning the gearbox, or??? Heck, I’m getting myself confused!! Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty

[Puggy625]

Replace motor, be done with it. Thank me later.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Kossetx]

btw, a good way to control speed nowadays is a 3PH motor and a VFD. Chinese VFD's can be had for <100.00 and used 3 phase motors are cheap, sometimes free.

[BTLowry]

Have you checked to make sure the pulley is not slipping on the motor shaft?

[double bogey]

Looks like motor is driving the gearbox with the belt and pulley. The gearbox is reducing the speed and driving the blade. The motor is 1750 rpm, you wouldn't drive the blade at that speed. Lots of equipment like this has weird oem motors, that are hard to find. Didn't notice the Hp, but motors in this frame size at 1750 rpm are very common. Very common on fans in the a/c biz.

I don't see a start capacitor on that motor, but you cant see the whole motor in the pic.

[Leon County Slayer]

The second pic is a gear reducer that has the 4L-450 belt on it. If your motor is directly bolted to that gearbox, and the actual motor is turning, but that pulley in 2nd pic is not, you could have a bad gearbox. By just what I’m seeing in the pics it’s hard to say what’s going on. I can say that the motor in pic 1 was “added” and not OEM. They are prob using the gear reducer to slow down the speed/give you a lot more torque. If I was there we could get it figured out, but... Wish you were closer... I’ve worked on and ran this kinda stuff for the last 30 yrs. and wish I could be more help, but I ain’t “seeing the whole story” in the pics, and your description has me abit confused too. Oh, the other comments could be spot on as well. Very well could be a capacitor problem. Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty

Replace motor, be done with it. Thank me later.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Have you checked to make sure the pulley is not slipping on the motor shaft?

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! It’s BTLowry for the win!!!!
I pulled everything off and the pulley slipped right off the shaft. Looked like the lock screw just backed out. Reinstalled and it’s noisy but spinning right along. Very happy not to have spent a few extra hundred bucks!

[sendit]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! It’s BTLowry for the win!!!!
I pulled everything off and the pulley slipped right off the shaft. Looked like the lock screw just backed out. Reinstalled and it’s noisy but spinning right along. Very happy not to have spent a few extra hundred bucks!

The pulley should have a keyway in it that mates with a keyway in the motor or gear box shaft. There should be a square key inserted that locks the two together and held in place with a set screw. This insures a positive drive.

If you are relying on just a set screw holding the pulley on the shaft you will continue to have problems.

[Leon County Slayer]

The pulley should have a keyway in it that mates with a keyway in the motor or gear box shaft. There should be a square key inserted that locks the two together and held in place with a set screw. This insures a positive drive.

If you are relying on just a set screw holding the pulley on the shaft you will continue to have problems.

Good word and makes sense. I’ll order a new pulley!