Barndominium Build Question

[DanLeaAnn]

So I got a predicament and was hoping y’all could help. I’m planing on building living quarters in my existing barn. Sounds cool right? My issue is the wall framing detail on the exterior walls. Currently there’s the red iron z purlin every four feet (I think?) and I am unsure how to frame up the wall and knew a bunch of y’all have already dealt with this.

Do I take off the z purlin and woodframe a new wall? Do I build “cripple” walls between the z purlins?
My thought was to take them off and frame the wall with a 2x6 on edge where the z purlin is so I can save the siding since there’s holes there already.

Also do I need to put sheathing and a vapor barrier? Or just a vapor barrier between the stud framing and steel. I know I should talk to a builder/someone who know what they are doing but I’m just in a rough planning stage now.


Here’s a picture of the wall in question


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[BrokenJ]

When I had our barndo built it was hybrid purlining in shop and 2x4 studs and vapor barrier in living area just like a normal home. Created more space by having thinner walls and we spray foamed which stiffed the walls and insulated very well. We also went with 10 ft ceilings. Can send pictures of the frame stage if that would help. Just pm if so

[rzurovec]

Build the living quarters as a stand alone inside the existing building.

[rileydog]

Anytime we have framed existing metal buildings, we have attached the walls to the purlins and just wrapped around the floor to ceiling beams. Seemed to create more stability in the walls.

[BrianL]

Leave the purlin. Just build 2x4 walls and butt them up to the purlin.

https://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310391&page=4

[Dirtymike]

2x4 walls, attach them to the purlin for extra support.
I put 3/4 inch foam board up against the sheet metal, used tyvek tape and great stuff at top and bottom for vapor barrier/ first layer of insulation. Then used insulation in the wall like regular.

[Dirtymike]

We used 3/4 inch plywood to help with strength to keep walls from racking lef to right since they won’t be skinned ou the outside. Plus wanted to be able to have solid wall to hang stuff on.

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Been slow progress’s cause I am stuck on plumbing on 2nd floor.


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[JonBoy]

Build the living quarters as a stand alone inside the existing building.

This is what I'm doing for mine this spring. Unfortunately I didn't know until AFTER my barndo was built that the walls aren't designed to support additional inside framing. I'm building an 8x15 bedroom as a standalone structure inside

[Texastaxi]

I built a conventional 2x4 wall, wrapped the top side with Tyvex, and stood it up against the perlins.

If I was building from scratch, I would use only wood framing on the walls that were to be part of the house. Here's a bunch of pictures from my construction.

Barndo build

Since you don't have the vinyl backed insulation, you can spray yours. I didn't know you couldn't spray on top of the building insulation until after I ordered it and it was in.

[DanLeaAnn]

Thanks y’all for the replies! I’ll look into the links y’all posted.

To those who are saying to just frame up the wall and just butt it to the purlin. Won’t that give you a rather “thick” wall? 2x4, purlin, drywall, R panel, and you should be looking at close to 10-12” walls right? Do you spray foam the entire cavity or only the woodframe?

I guess I’m trying to get the most usable space since the barns already built and it wasn’t big enough before I even thought about living quarters....

Thanks again!


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[Pauly G]

looks great!

[kmitchl]

I built mine with the stud walls against the purlins. Yes, you loose some space. But keep in mind that you will probably need to run some plumbing vents in the outside walls. Unless you want to punch them through the purlins they will need to be in the walls. Where you have plumbing vents make frame the walls with 2x6.

[Texastaxi]

To those who are saying to just frame up the wall and just butt it to the purlin. Won’t that give you a rather “thick” wall? 2x4, purlin, drywall, R panel, and you should be looking at close to 10-12” walls right? Do you spray foam the entire cavity or only the woodframe?

I guess I’m trying to get the most usable space since the barns already built and it wasn’t big enough before I even thought about living quarters....

Yes, the walls will be about a foot thick. Unless you build 3 short walls, and somehow place them between the perlins, there's really no way around this. If you went with the mini-wall route, you'd also need to look at adding that extra weight to the perlins.

The insulation is why I added the Tyvex to the wall before I stood it up ... to hold the insulation in place. Only your wallet will determine if you would spray the entire 12" wall with insulation.

[warrington]

How do you kee mjce from crawling in between the c outline and the new structure. We had problems with this. We also had one with the 2x4 framed into the c purling. Took extra would but worth it. Then foamed it. It sealed and no more mice in the walls