Boat transom replacement help

[bossbowman]

If you're going to go pourable, you need to get ALL of the wood out. Make sure you the wood doesn't extend into the rear sponsons on either side. If it does, it may be almost impossible to get to all of the wood without doing a top cap removal. If you're going to separate the top cap, you might as well do a traditional transom rebuild. I've done a pourable using Arjay 6000, and it worked great, but I was able to access to the entire width of the transom.

If the transom goes into the sponsons and you remove that don't think you could do the liquid transom without some additional glass work to keep the pour from draining into the bilge. But I agree get all the wood out if it goes into the sponsons, and as bad as the wood looks I'm 99% sure the stringers are rotted too. Good interesting thread so far.

[bossbowman]

Double and triple check you have no leaks before the pour. If you look at that link I posted earlier in this thread guy had a royal pain in the arse grinding out stuff that leaked into his bilge.

[BowSlayer]

Double and triple check you have no leaks before the pour. If you look at that link I posted earlier in this thread guy had a royal pain in the arse grinding out stuff that leaked into his bilge.

Will do. My plan is to go ahead and install my livewell pumps and through hull fittings before pouring. Also planned to wrap the motor mount bolts in tin foil and put them in before pouring. Sound right?

[public]

I replaced the transom in my boat. A LOT of work but its solid as a rock now. Seacast is what I used. The lady there was very helpful and walked me thru the whole process. FYI I purchased the same motor lift as you..... mine did slowly drop over time. I returned from a weeks vacation and found my motor on the garage floor

[Marooned]

Will do. My plan is to go ahead and install my livewell pumps and through hull fittings before pouring. Also planned to wrap the motor mount bolts in tin foil and put them in before pouring. Sound right?

You might consider finding wooden dowels the same diameter as the thru-hull fittings and motor mount bolts. After the transom cures, you can then drill out the wood dowels. I'd be afraid you'd never get your thru-hull fittings out and if something goes wrong with the bolts that will be a huge headache. I know once that Arjay set up, it was stuck. I poured some on a sheet of scrap plywood and after it set up I couldn't separate it with a sledge hammer.

[bossbowman]

Will do. My plan is to go ahead and install my livewell pumps and through hull fittings before pouring. Also planned to wrap the motor mount bolts in tin foil and put them in before pouring. Sound right?

I guess, I do know all those through hull fittings and the motor bolts once you re-install the motor need to be sealed with 3M 4200 marine sealant, you use regular silicone and you WILL have a leaky bilge eventually. I would probably put all those fittings in with the 4200 before doing the pour because once it sets IDK if they will come out. It sounds like this stuff sets like concrete so don't know how difficult it would be to just tape the holes off and drill out after it dries, but that's how that guy got 3 gallons leaked into his bilge.

[bossbowman]

You might consider finding wooden dowels the same diameter as the thru-hull fittings and motor mount bolts. I know once that Arjay setup it was stuck. I poured some on a sheet of scrap plywood and after it setup I couldn't separate it with a sledge hammer.

That actually would be a better idea or some kind of foam as long as it fits tight, otherwise replacing a fitting down the road might be a real pain

[BowSlayer]

I appreciate the ideas. Those 2 stainless tie-down loops aren't coming off. They have nuts inside but aren't budging. I think I'll just tape them down good and snug to the transom and pour around them.

I'm working till 9:00 tonight but after that I'll have the next week off so I plan to get this thing done if possible.

[Slew]

This is a lot of work on a boat for somebody that doesn't fish!!![emoji23]


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[BowSlayer]

This is a lot of work on a boat for somebody that doesn't fish!!![emoji23]


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Hey, I resemble that remark!

[BowSlayer]

Here's a question for someone that might know... When I look down into the hollowed out transom there are no stringers showing. I can't see any sign of where any stringers tie into the transom. Is it possible that there is fiberglass between the stringer and transom so that they are separate?

[Hoggslayer]

In for the results.

[be12hunt]

Nice. I’m in for the progress.

[bossbowman]

Here's a question for someone that might know... When I look down into the hollowed out transom there are no stringers showing. I can't see any sign of where any stringers tie into the transom. Is it possible that there is fiberglass between the stringer and transom so that they are separate?

I have no idea how skeeter does it, might not hurt to call the factory in Kilgore. This will give you an idea how the hull is put together except the older boats used wood not composites like in the video

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJbJzMCWSDc"]Ranger Boat Factory Tour Hull Lamination - YouTube[/ame]

[TeamAmerica]

You might consider finding wooden dowels the same diameter as the thru-hull fittings and motor mount bolts. After the transom cures, you can then drill out the wood dowels. I'd be afraid you'd never get your thru-hull fittings out and if something goes wrong with the bolts that will be a huge headache. I know once that Arjay set up, it was stuck. I poured some on a sheet of scrap plywood and after it set up I couldn't separate it with a sledge hammer.

A.good idea.

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