Why wont my BHs fly

[Hardware]

https://www.wvac.asn.au/docs/TuningGuideEaston.pdf

Go to page 11 and it tells you how to broadhead tune. I've used this and its always worked for me.

[Easttxbowman]

Broadhead choice has absolutely nothing to do with whether the fly good or not... paper tuning is a great first step to get everything really close but not the final answer. Use them yokes now to bring the arrow right. If you had a bow without yokes, you'd bump the rest right.

[Low Fence]

www.wvac.asn.au/docs/TuningGuideEaston.pdf

Go to page 11 and it tells you how to broadhead tune. I've used this and its always worked for me.

This system is a completely different animal

[LeanMachine]

Ok cool thanks guys. And thank you very much for not just saying those heads wont fly for you.

I had everything timed very well last year. Timed the draw, tweaked the yokes, and all that jazz. Last year i was shooting same arrow but a 300 with a standard insert and 125 grain 4 blade wacem. I was grouping with field points out to 80. I guess something stretched somewhere.

Last year and this year im running 4 vanetec 3" vanes. I think they are called super spines maybe. Rest should be centershot but i will confirm and then see what a bareshaft will do through paper and go from there. Will be monday before i get a chance. Ive got killing to do this weekend so the trypans will have to keep eating.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[TxSpinner]

If you have a true center shot and are achieving bullet holes in paper, then I wouldn't mess with your yokes on your cables. That is just asking for more of an issue. Always start with what is most obvious. My personal opinion is the spine of your arrow. I would move to a stiffer spine such as the 300. I think the 250 has to much flex giving the results you mentioned. If moving to the 300 XT's don't fix it then I would try different fletchings. Then move to a heavier broadhead. But absolutely start with the stiffer spine. I think it will solve your problems here.

[RCDuck]

If you have a true center shot and are achieving bullet holes in paper, then I wouldn't mess with your yokes on your cables. That is just asking for more of an issue. Always start with what is most obvious. My personal opinion is the spine of your arrow. I would move to a stiffer spine such as the 300. I think the 250 has to much flex giving the results you mentioned. If moving to the 300 XT's don't fix it then I would try different fletchings. Then move to a heavier broadhead. But absolutely start with the stiffer spine. I think it will solve your problems here.

250 is more stiff than 300....

[TxSpinner]

250 is more stiff than 300....

Had to go to the Gold Tip website. Realized my mistake, ignore me completely then. I shoot CE and its apparently backwards in numbers which makes everything I said useless to you.

[LeanMachine]

If you have a true center shot and are achieving bullet holes in paper, then I wouldn't mess with your yokes on your cables. That is just asking for more of an issue. Always start with what is most obvious. My personal opinion is the spine of your arrow. I would move to a stiffer spine such as the 300. I think the 250 has to much flex giving the results you mentioned. If moving to the 300 XT's don't fix it then I would try different fletchings. Then move to a heavier broadhead. But absolutely start with the stiffer spine. I think it will solve your problems here.

Did you mean softer spine? 250s are stiffer than 300s. I am shooting 250s.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Calihunter1]

Ok cool thanks guys. And thank you very much for not just saying those heads wont fly for you.

I had everything timed very well last year. Timed the draw, tweaked the yokes, and all that jazz. Last year i was shooting same arrow but a 300 with a standard insert and 125 grain 4 blade wacem. I was grouping with field points out to 80. I guess something stretched somewhere.

Last year and this year im running 4 vanetec 3" vanes. I think they are called super spines maybe. Rest should be centershot but i will confirm and then see what a bareshaft will do through paper and go from there. Will be monday before i get a chance. Ive got killing to do this weekend so the trypans will have to keep eating.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I check my timing on a draw board couple times a year. And about once a year might have to throw in a half twist into a cable. Make sure you time your bow on twisting cables not doing the micro tune on the cam. I’m not fond of that. So that’s where I would start. Then take out cam lean then shoot through paper bareshaft. Then yoke tune. Just my 2 pennies, that arrow is gunna shoot. Do you have a draw board and press?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hardware]

This system is a completely different animal

From his comments the bow was paper tuned so messing with string, cable or yokes would nock bow out of tune adding additional problems. I've broadhead tuned many a bows using principles in the guide with great success.

[LeanMachine]

I check my timing on a draw board couple times a year. And about once a year might have to throw in a half twist into a cable. Make sure you time your bow on twisting cables not doing the micro tune on the cam. I’m not fond of that. So that’s where I would start. Then take out cam lean then shoot through paper bareshaft. Then yoke tune. Just my 2 pennies, that arrow is gunna shoot. Do you have a draw board and press?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes i have both. I dont use the micro adjust unless its really close already. It really is a micro adjust but doesnt have much travel.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Black-N-Red]

I use the victory spine calculator & it been pretty much dead on with the arrows I’ve built. I put the specs you gave & it suggested a 250 spine but it was a little stiff (.276 actual spine). I added 75gr to the insert weight which brings it up to 175gr insert weight & it drop the spine closer to .250 (.257). I would suggest getting some fact weights & add weight & see what happens. I’m not much on what my arrow ends up weighing as long as it flys straight. I pick the head I want to shoot , cut the arrow to the length I want & play around with insert weight from there. Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LeanMachine]

I use the victory spine calculator & it been pretty much dead on with the arrows I’ve built. I put the specs you gave & it suggested a 250 spine but it was a little stiff (.276 actual spine). I added 75gr to the insert weight which brings it up to 175gr insert weight & it drop the spine closer to .250 (.257). I would suggest getting some fact weights & add weight & see what happens. I’m not much on what my arrow ends up weighing as long as it flys straight. I pick the head I want to shoot , cut the arrow to the length I want & play around with insert weight from there. Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thanks i will check that out. Im the same way. I want at least 500 grains but not too picky after that.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[rocky]

From his comments the bow was paper tuned so messing with string, cable or yokes would nock bow out of tune adding additional problems. I've broadhead tuned many a bows using principles in the guide with great success.

On the overdrive system, bulletholes doesn’t necessarily mean it’s exactly right.