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Old 01-11-2017, 10:05 PM   #1
Lip
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Default Steel Building Questions - Getting Ready to Build

We're getting ready to build a shop at the farm, primarily to store the tractor and ranger and I have some questions.

We're planning to build the following:
30x40 building 12' tall (on slab)
2-10x40 lean-to's (one on each side at 10') (on dirt)
2-12 wide x 10' roll-up doors
1-10 wide x 10' roll-up door
1-3' walk-through door
gutters
Insulated

What's the cost vs advantage of going taller than 12' on the walls?

What kind of cost difference is there between having the lean-to's vs going with a bigger building besides the additional concrete?

Any major issues with waiting a year to get it wired and add lights?

We currently have a price of $24,600 for a welded building as spec'd including erection (plus cost of dirt work and slab). Everything I've found on costs is based on a building without the lean-to's so I'm not sure where I should be on a price per square foot.

I'll have a quote from Mueller for a bolted building soon and will need to factor in cost to erect.

The slab will be plumbed for a commode, sink & drain, and electrical entry. It will be 30x40 with 3 12x3' ramps at the big doors. Price on this is $7,650
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:26 PM   #2
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you need those 12ft walls if you hang a 10ft roll up door. shorter than 10ft for farm equipment and trailers and the like you may not be happy with. higher than 12 ft must mean that you want to use overhead rigging and lifting gear or that your roll up door will be 12 ft or higher like for a tractor trailer rig. additional cost (relatively small) is necessary based upon the size of the roll up doors you need.

no problem with waiting on the electrical except you will want it in there pretty fast so you can use tools and see what you are doing on the dark.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:47 PM   #3
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Go 14ft tall sides and 12x12 doors u won't regret it
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:42 AM   #4
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Taller the better. Ours is 12ft and all though no problems on 4 occasions in the past 18 years, we wished we had a little taller entry.
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:20 AM   #5
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Marked for later.
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:36 AM   #6
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who are you getting to build it for that price I'm looking at building one too? if you don't mind me being nosey...........
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:09 AM   #7
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I originally wanted 12' walls on mine but the supplier priced 14' so I just went with it. I have a 5/12 pitch on my roof and after all was said and done I found I could build a second story inside my building down the center.

The moral of the story, go big...

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Old 01-12-2017, 08:04 AM   #8
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Ed, if you want it sealed up to maybe insulate and such later on, I'd go with panel doors instead of roll up doors. They don't seal very well and are next to impossible to insulate. Like others have said, Go as tall as is practical for you. On the lean-to's sure will be easier to put some kind of base down before you begin construction (like crushed rock or concrete) if you plan to do that at some point. Also, if you go 20 foot wide instead of 10, you can park cars/boats, and such end ways rather than parallel... not much extra cost either... similar to 14' walls instead of 12'... ...just my thoughts.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:06 AM   #9
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Go wider on the lean-to. 12'-15' won't be much more $$, if you have room on the site.

1. 10' doesn't cover much if pulling in from the "eave side".

2. If backing a trailer etc., down the (40'side) length you'll appreciate a little more width.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:44 AM   #10
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Appreciate the replies. The builder I have a quote from is local to my area, he's out of Center, TX - Donny Fountain.

Where we're planning to build it we are a bit tight for space so I hadn't looked at going any wider on the lean-to's. The front is not for storage, just a small area to get out of the rain to work, grill, etc. I'll have to take a look at the back to see if I can go another 5' or so.

No plans to seal it up, house is already built and this will be right behind the house. The insulation we're putting in is just to make it more comfortable when I'm working on something out there.

Any guesses on what it would run to go to 14' walls with 12x12 doors?
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:58 PM   #11
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Any idea on the price difference between 12' walls and 14' walls?


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Old 01-12-2017, 02:41 PM   #12
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10' is not near big enough for lean to's. Mine are 15 and would be much better at 20'. Mine is 16' heighth for getting tall horse trailer under eaves but worked out great as I put in one 8x20 loft and will probably do another later. As said, use garage doors, not rollup.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:16 PM   #13
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Thanks for reiterating to use garage doors. When SWS said "panel doors" instead of roll ups, I was thinking a large panel sliding to one side. I didn't realize he was talking about garage doors. I'll look into that.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:18 PM   #14
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Where can I get garage doors that are 12x12 or 10x12?
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:18 PM   #15
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http://www.discountoverheaddoorinc.com/index.htm
You can click on the tab design your door, etc. and they do show you can get a 12x12. We just had two regular size doors installed on our house. They are local to lufkin/Nacogdoches.
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:44 PM   #16
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Thanks Terry. Still deciding on exactly what I'm going to build. I'm getting a price on a 30x50x14 welded with 3 big doors and one walk through. I added so much to the 30x40x12 that the price is getting up there.
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:17 PM   #17
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You will get it narrowed down soon I am sure, the planning stages is the best part IMO.
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:24 PM   #18
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Yall seeing about $25 sq ft +/- for complete building, slab, insulation, lighting, etc for basic shop design?
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Old 01-19-2017, 06:39 AM   #19
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I agree on the small leanto, if you have the space. We did a 20'


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Old 01-19-2017, 06:56 AM   #20
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Ed, sorry for the confusion in my post. Indeed garage doors rather than roll up or sliding doors... My warehouse at my business has roll ups. The area is air conditiond, and we blocked 2 of them off and insulated over them. The heat of the sun in the summer is intense. Plus, we are constantly having to deal with birds getting in around the tops of the remaining 2 doors...

And 12 foot on the width is nice too. My barn at home has 10 foot doors, and the shop has 12... I'd never do another such building with 10 foot doors. Heck, just backing a truck/tractor or trailer partially in, creates a real tight squeeze if you want to go in and out the open door with the vehicle sitting in it...

Good luck on the build (AND congratulations too on finally getting to the point where you can!!). Keep us posted.
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:25 AM   #21
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Garage doors come in two foot sections and track can be bolted together as well.

You can make them as tall as you have a place to roll them back in
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:14 PM   #22
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I now have a price on a welded 30x50x14 with 4 trusses with 3-12'x12' roll-ups and one walk-through door, gutters, slab with one 3x12 ramp and one 5x34 ramp, and plumbing in slab for commode and 2 sinks. It came in a $23.30 per sq. ft. I'm going bigger on the building instead of having the lean-to's. I can add them later if I decide I need them. I need to call and get a price on the garage-type doors.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingranch View Post
Go 14ft tall sides and 12x12 doors u won't regret it
X1000000000. Been there done it and have regrets now!
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:37 AM   #24
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Make the lean-to's wider. Roof taller and I suggest panel doors that are insulated. Especially if they will face the west.
I did 16' tall at end walls and have room for a loft on top of my bathroom. Extra storage area you don't have to duck down while up there.

If you plan on having an air compressor have a small slab poured under a lean-to near your electric supply so you have it outside and anchored down to the concrete.

I wish I would have plumbed a drain near my roll up door for washing away blood when cleaning deer.
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:38 AM   #25
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My 10x10 insulted garage style doors were 2k i think. Another $350 to make one wireless operated. Wish I would have went 12x12 though.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:19 AM   #26
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My 10x10 insulted garage style doors were 2k i think. Another $350 to make one wireless operated. Wish I would have went 12x12 though.
Quite a bit more expensive than standard roll-up doors.
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Old 01-20-2017, 10:49 AM   #27
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Quite a bit more expensive than standard roll-up doors.
Yep, but worth every penny for my purposes. Ed, you may not need them, but those roll up doors may need to be upgraded at some point if your need changes... Since they don't seal to the building, they will allow moisture in during those dark, dreary foggy mornings that will promote sweating/condensation on everything... I have this issue in my barn now... When we moved, I put my roll around tool boxes, power tools and such in the barn... Everything has a coat of rust on it now... I will be moving them all to my garage/new shop, then spend days cleaning them!
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Old 01-20-2017, 12:39 PM   #28
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I suggest using galvanized perlins all the way, if you don't at least do them on ridge and eves. They are the first to rust out. My shop is 40 x 60 weld up with center post and 12 x 11'8" doors, with 12' walls, 11'8 was all I could get in with beam. 4/12 pitch helps when you want to add on, the eve height will be higher than 5/12
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Old 01-20-2017, 01:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lip View Post
I now have a price on a welded 30x50x14 with 4 trusses with 3-12'x12' roll-ups and one walk-through door, gutters, slab with one 3x12 ramp and one 5x34 ramp, and plumbing in slab for commode and 2 sinks. It came in a $23.30 per sq. ft. I'm going bigger on the building instead of having the lean-to's. I can add them later if I decide I need them. I need to call and get a price on the garage-type doors.
Mind me asking who you are using for all of this? I am in the beginning stages of planning my build out and I am in the Houston area too.

Thanks and good luck with your build! Hope you can post some pics as they are building it.
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Old 01-20-2017, 03:25 PM   #30
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Mind me asking who you are using for all of this? I am in the beginning stages of planning my build out and I am in the Houston area too.

Thanks and good luck with your build! Hope you can post some pics as they are building it.
I'm building this near Tenaha on our farm, not in Houston.
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:10 PM   #31
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Decided on 30x50x14 with 3 12x12 and one walk through door.



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Old 01-28-2017, 11:02 PM   #32
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Make sure you have a big door on opposite ends to get air to flow through. My 60x40 will be a sweat box with only one door open.


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Old 01-28-2017, 11:19 PM   #33
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2 of the 12x12's are across from each other and it's insulated to help a bit.


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Old 01-29-2017, 07:29 AM   #34
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keep posting pictures
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:34 AM   #35
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Very nice Ed, looks like it is coming along. The house, now the shop, all you need is a Big Ole Pond full of fish
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:49 AM   #36
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We have tall (probably 14') roll-up doors at our warehouse at work. The main advantage of the roll-up door is they don't take up any extra space when open. So you have that extra ceiling area where you can install lights, space heaters, skylights, etc without it being blocked by the open door. The disadvantages are that they are not insulated and they are NOISY when it's windy in the closed position. To the point where it can be hard to carry on a conversation if you're standing close to one. They "rattle" in the track on a windy day. For our purposes, I'm glad we went with the roll-ups, but they are not without their drawbacks.
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:13 AM   #37
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Very nice Ed, looks like it is coming along. The house, now the shop, all you need is a Big Ole Pond full of fish


The pond is on my sisters place next to ours. I stocked it with Kid's Unlimited catfish a few years ago.


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Old 01-29-2017, 01:32 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Snakelover View Post
We have tall (probably 14') roll-up doors at our warehouse at work. The main advantage of the roll-up door is they don't take up any extra space when open. So you have that extra ceiling area where you can install lights, space heaters, skylights, etc without it being blocked by the open door. The disadvantages are that they are not insulated and they are NOISY when it's windy in the closed position. To the point where it can be hard to carry on a conversation if you're standing close to one. They "rattle" in the track on a windy day. For our purposes, I'm glad we went with the roll-ups, but they are not without their drawbacks.


I ended up going with roll-ups. Wanted the maximum size building and didn't want to spend any more money right now.


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Old 01-29-2017, 01:40 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Snakelover View Post
We have tall (probably 14') roll-up doors at our warehouse at work. The main advantage of the roll-up door is they don't take up any extra space when open. So you have that extra ceiling area where you can install lights, space heaters, skylights, etc without it being blocked by the open door. The disadvantages are that they are not insulated and they are NOISY when it's windy in the closed position. To the point where it can be hard to carry on a conversation if you're standing close to one. They "rattle" in the track on a windy day. For our purposes, I'm glad we went with the roll-ups, but they are not without their drawbacks.


I ended up going with roll-ups. I wanted the maximum size and wasn't willing to spend any more money right now.


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Old 01-29-2017, 01:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakelover View Post
We have tall (probably 14') roll-up doors at our warehouse at work. The main advantage of the roll-up door is they don't take up any extra space when open. So you have that extra ceiling area where you can install lights, space heaters, skylights, etc without it being blocked by the open door. The disadvantages are that they are not insulated and they are NOISY when it's windy in the closed position. To the point where it can be hard to carry on a conversation if you're standing close to one. They "rattle" in the track on a windy day. For our purposes, I'm glad we went with the roll-ups, but they are not without their drawbacks.


Not sure if it's too late, but I had to go with windstorm doors and the don't rattle at all.


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Old 01-29-2017, 02:55 PM   #41
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At 23.30 a sq ft, did that include dirt work and site prep?

Also, is your foundation engineered with piers? How thick?
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Old 01-29-2017, 03:50 PM   #42
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Hello all, I am new to this site but Sailor told me I should join. I am a regular on the Texas Hunting Forum and that is where i know Sailor from. I am a metal building builder, and I see some good information on this post. I personally tell a lot of my customers to put in a 14' door is they can, this will allow anything that will go down the highway legally to fit in your shop. Now obviously this depends on your needs, but most of us hunters have a huge variety of "stuff" that comes and goes from our shops. I have coil up doors (uninsulated) in my personal shop and don't have any issues with heat, but my shop is insulated. As far as the prices I see listed on here, I personally normally tell people to start at $18 a square foot for a basic building (complete with slab and erection) then everything else is options after that. Gutters/downspouts, insulation, doors, dirt work is site depending, sky lights, electric, and plumbing. Hope this helps out some.
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Old 01-29-2017, 04:02 PM   #43
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Hello all, I am new to this site but Sailor told me I should join. I am a regular on the Texas Hunting Forum and that is where i know Sailor from. I am a metal building builder, and I see some good information on this post. I personally tell a lot of my customers to put in a 14' door is they can, this will allow anything that will go down the highway legally to fit in your shop. Now obviously this depends on your needs, but most of us hunters have a huge variety of "stuff" that comes and goes from our shops. I have coil up doors (uninsulated) in my personal shop and don't have any issues with heat, but my shop is insulated. As far as the prices I see listed on here, I personally normally tell people to start at $18 a square foot for a basic building (complete with slab and erection) then everything else is options after that. Gutters/downspouts, insulation, doors, dirt work is site depending, sky lights, electric, and plumbing. Hope this helps out some.

Where are you located? Do you build in the Hill Country? Specifically Spring Branch?
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Old 01-29-2017, 04:28 PM   #44
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Where are you located? Do you build in the Hill Country? Specifically Spring Branch?
Colin, I am based out of Bastrop but we travel all over. Bidding work in Dallas area, central TX, building a building near Waco in a few weeks, Austin after that.
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Old 01-29-2017, 04:39 PM   #45
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Colin, I am based out of Bastrop but we travel all over. Bidding work in Dallas area, central TX, building a building near Waco in a few weeks, Austin after that.
Sounds good. I'm sending you a PM. Oh and Welcome to the Fire!
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:49 PM   #46
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At 23.30 a sq ft, did that include dirt work and site prep?

Also, is your foundation engineered with piers? How thick?


3 loads dirt and prep work included. Traditional slab with footings around the perimeter. 4"


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Old 01-29-2017, 09:12 PM   #47
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3 loads dirt and prep work included. Traditional slab with footings around the perimeter. 4"


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Cool! Good deal.

I need some prep work and dirt work done. Most people only give bids without that.
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Old 01-29-2017, 09:52 PM   #48
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Cool! Good deal.

I need some prep work and dirt work done. Most people only give bids without that.
12RingKing, around 500-700 a day for someone to do your work is reasonable. If you know how much your land falls off you can estimate how much dirt work you will need. Dirt is sold by the cubic yard (length x width x height) divided by 27 will get your cubic yards. Say you drop off 4' from one side of your pad to the other. Lets say it falls in one direction only, for simplicity, so one side is 0 and the other is -4'. This would give you a pie shape piece to fill in. Well since one side is 0 and will need no dirt, you can actually divide this -4' in half to figure out your dirt needed. So a 30' x 40' slab with a 4' fall will need approx 89 cubic yards. In my area you can get 18 yards per truck, at about $225 per truck for sandy loam. Given this scenario you would be between $2-3k for dirt work. Now I have no idea what your particular pad looks like, but this could give you an idea on how much it might cost. When I give a bid for a building, unless the owner wants it otherwise, I quote dirt work as a line item. I don't like there to be surprises for the owner or me.
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Old 01-30-2017, 02:25 AM   #49
tps7742
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Looking good Lip, congratulations!
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Old 02-10-2017, 04:13 PM   #50
Lip
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Erection has begun.

This Morning:
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This afternoon:
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