Knife Sharpening for a Novice

[Bryan11]

What's everyone's go to for getting their hunting knife, EDC and Kitchen Knifes back in shape?

I was never properly taught how to free hand on a stone. I've tried with very limited success. Most all my contraptions are the free hand type stones and i can never get the results i'm looking for.

I've used a work sharp with the belts and had some success and know people swear by them, but mine had been shredding belts and turns out to be a bad bushing/bearing.

So i'm at a crossroads where i either replace my worksharp with another one, try to find a part and repair it or try something else out like the guided lansky?

Trying to stay around $100 or less, unless you can really help me justify spending more for being an average outdoorsman.

[Big Lee]

Call WS customer service. They may warranty it out for you.

[Hoggslayer]

I got my Wife a RADA for her kitchen knives but I use it often.

[kingranch1886]

I’ve got both a work sharp and a guided Lansky. The Lansky is better hands down. Too much give in the work sharp.

[JES]

Knife Sharpening for a Novice

I have this Worksharp and use it for my kitchen knives, I’ve been very happy with it:







Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite Knife Sharpener Including Additional Sharpening Stones and Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FWWDFF9...BM1KYDJH55WP7A

[oktx]

If it’s not the motor bearings the part where you put the belt on can be replaced. $15.00 from WS.

[retrieverman]

I was introduced to Lansky sharpeners in 1993. Get a Lansky with diamond stones, and you won’t regret it.

I keep a work sharp for sharpening my KOA Ulu, but other than that, it doesn’t do near as good of a job as the Lansky.

[RJH1]

Sharpening a knife to shave hair is pretty easy. My recommendation is to go buy a diamond Stone and a knife with a easy to sharpen bevel and blade like a mora that's not really expensive, and use it a lot, and start practicing. It's not rocket surgery and people have made knife sharpening way more complicated than it needs to be in the last 20 or so years. Also, on the diamond Stone no need to spend a ton of money there either. The bigger Smith's brand like you get at Lowe's or academy will work just fine. Good luck

[Jason Fry]

A trick... color the edge with a sharpie. That'll show you where your strokes are cutting and if you're getting all the way to the edge. Sharpening to a burr is critical. After that, it's just polishing.

Work Sharp is a decent machine if you use a light touch. Don't use it to grind your blade away.

[Brute Killer]

I learned how to sharpen knives as a kid, wearing out several in the process.
It's worth learning.

[hopedale]

Call WS customer service. They may warranty it out for you.

This

[JakeGraves]

Send it to me and Ill get the edge stupid sharp. Like hair jumping off your arm before the blade touches them sharp. $10/blade plus shipping back to you.

[muzzlebrake]

Worksharp is good IF you know how to use it. Easy to ruin the tip and screw up the back at the ricasso. Being a knife maker I don't use them but I do sharpen all my knives on my 2x72 belt grinder using Trizact belts and finish on my hard wheel buffer. For touch up in the field I use a 2500 grit ceramic honing rod. I also have Japanese water stones but seldom ever use them.

[Outback]

I used a Lansky for years but it took so long to get an edge that I got where I wouldn't shoot hogs because it would dull a couple of knives that would take me an hour to resharpen. I moved to a Worksharp and haven't looked back. I will sharpen 4-10 knives at a time - 10 times on medium on all blades, 10 on fine for all blades and then, and this is key, strop the blade on smooth leather to remove the burrs. I use the back of the sheath of my Schrade Sharpfinger. Every one shaves easily and takes no time at all.

[RifleBowPistol]

I used to be very good at putting edges on most all of our knives 30 plus years ago. The knives I have bought in the past 20 years, I am not any good at putting an edge on them. I have a collection of diamond stones, ceramic stones, old wet rocks. I have tried all types of angles and combination of diamond or ceramic stones. I can get somewhat of an edge on the blades, but nothing like when the knives were new.

30 plus year ago, I could put a edge on a knife, hold the edge of the blade 3/16" over my arm and go across my arm and cut all the hairs off 3/16" high. Cutting them flush at the base was easy. I don't have a single knife I can get close to that level of edge now days. Multiple knives I have, were that sharp when I got them. I think it's the metal the blades are made of, but also have been told, it is largely a result of most knives being sharpened with lasers when they are made. That you will never get a knife blade very sharp, with any type of stone, that was originally sharpened with a laser.

My wife bought me a Work Sharp, sharpener, there are some things it does pretty good on, but not any of my hunting knives.