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Easton axis vs Easton full metal jacket

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    #16
    I'd stick with the axis or get muddyfuzzy to build you some black eagles

    The fmjs bend too easy, when your like me and shoot random stuff like coons and squirrels you go through a lot of arrows quick

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      #17
      So here is a thought, what if I buy the things needed to build my own arrows??? I guess I could build them the way I want. But I'm a big dummy on foc. Lol


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        #18
        Whatever you do, stick with Easton.

        Look into the Injections with the Fire Nock outsert.(keeps you from having to shoot Deep Six) You'll get the weight you're looking for

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          #19
          Originally posted by Fishndude View Post
          Whatever you do, stick with Easton.

          Look into the Injections with the Fire Nock outsert.(keeps you from having to shoot Deep Six) You'll get the weight you're looking for


          So what's wrong with the deep six?


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            #20
            Originally posted by DapperDan View Post
            So school me on foc with the axis. I pull 70 lbs, 27 1/2 draw, Mathews no cam htx. I have blazers, nocturnals, standard insert, 100 grain tip, 5mm shaft diameter and 340 spine. Getting 280 fps. Shooting standard 1 inch slick tricks.



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            are you shooting a 5 or 6mm shaft?

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              #21
              Originally posted by DapperDan View Post
              So school me on foc with the axis. I pull 70 lbs, 27 1/2 draw, Mathews no cam htx. I have blazers, nocturnals, standard insert, 100 grain tip, 5mm shaft diameter and 340 spine. Getting 280 fps. Shooting standard 1 inch slick tricks.



              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              If you are shooting the old school Axis N-fused you are between 9-11% depending upon a few variables such as shaft length. You shoot a normal set-up and that is pretty average FOC on a hunting arrow. You give up a little more with the lighted nock and it's weight but this a good set-up for you. If you like the Axis and want a more aggressive set-up then think about dropping down a spine and adding some weight via the broadhead and/or insert combination (switching to brass). Finish the tuning with the shaft length and you will be good to go.

              Like I said before, the FMJ is great for adding a ton of mass weight but the FOC will always suffer. However, with some work you could have a lighter arrow that is much more aggressive in the FOC department and could have the potential of penetrating like a heavier build..........with better recovery..........more forgiveness...........and a flatter trajectory.

              Personally I don't have time to check jacketed arrows for bends and what not and I'm **** enough that if I did shoot them would feel compelled to do so. Carbon on the other hand, I can flex test it, chunk it, throw it back in the quiver and get on down the road.

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                #22
                An axis arrow with 75 go brass insert will weigh less than a FMJ arrow of the same length with an aluminum insert. And your FOC will go up with the axis. I made the switch from FMJ to axis for this very same reason.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by ar3731guy View Post
                  An axis arrow with 75 go brass insert will weigh less than a FMJ arrow of the same length with an aluminum insert. And your FOC will go up with the axis. I made the switch from FMJ to axis for this very same reason.


                  How you like em?


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                    #24
                    Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                    If you are shooting the old school Axis N-fused you are between 9-11% depending upon a few variables such as shaft length. You shoot a normal set-up and that is pretty average FOC on a hunting arrow. You give up a little more with the lighted nock and it's weight but this a good set-up for you. If you like the Axis and want a more aggressive set-up then think about dropping down a spine and adding some weight via the broadhead and/or insert combination (switching to brass). Finish the tuning with the shaft length and you will be good to go.



                    Like I said before, the FMJ is great for adding a ton of mass weight but the FOC will always suffer. However, with some work you could have a lighter arrow that is much more aggressive in the FOC department and could have the potential of penetrating like a heavier build..........with better recovery..........more forgiveness...........and a flatter trajectory.



                    Personally I don't have time to check jacketed arrows for bends and what not and I'm **** enough that if I did shoot them would feel compelled to do so. Carbon on the other hand, I can flex test it, chunk it, throw it back in the quiver and get on down the road.


                    Sounds like what I'd really like to do. However I'm new to custom arrows so to speak so I'd hate to be going in the wrong direction. I'd need to pick some brains of someone that's done it. I understand most of how to but an example would be finishing tuning with shaft length. Ya lost me. Lol


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                      #25
                      As with any shaft of any spine a reduction in length decreases the dynamic spine just as lengthening the same shaft increases the dynamic reaction. The generic terms are stiffening and weakening the spine. With a ton of work and working against physic and basic Archery reason you can get almost any arrow to tune in any bow. With that being said we are all different and likewise our equipment so setting up what's best for you so be the goal.

                      Pick a target set of specs. FPS, FOC or EFOC, mass weight, momentum......what ever. This will get you in the right spine with the right build and broadhead. After that you can experiment with shaft length to find the optimal length/dynamic spine for that particular set up. It's a good way to learn, it will challenge your knowledge and make you a better archer for it. There are lots of very knowledgeable folks on this site that will be more than happy in assisting you in this process.


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                        #26
                        Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                        As with any shaft of any spine a reduction in length decreases the dynamic spine just as lengthening the same shaft increases the dynamic reaction. The generic terms are stiffening and weakening the spine. With a ton of work and working against physic and basic Archery reason you can get almost any arrow to tune in any bow. With that being said we are all different and likewise our equipment so setting up what's best for you so be the goal.

                        Pick a target set of specs. FPS, FOC or EFOC, mass weight, momentum......what ever. This will get you in the right spine with the right build and broadhead. After that you can experiment with shaft length to find the optimal length/dynamic spine for that particular set up. It's a good way to learn, it will challenge your knowledge and make you a better archer for it. There are lots of very knowledgeable folks on this site that will be more than happy in assisting you in this process.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                        Sounds like a great plan. Wouldn't know where to start...


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                          #27
                          [QUOTE=DapperDan;12541956]How you like em?
                          I think they are more duarable than the FMJs.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by DapperDan View Post
                            So what's wrong with the deep six?


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                            Nothing is wrong with Deep Six except you'll need to stick up on Deep Six broadheads and field points. Just trying to save you the extra expense.
                            Last edited by Fishndude; 06-30-2017, 05:39 AM.

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                              #29
                              MuddyFuzzy and others have done a great job giving direction where to start on an arrow build and pros and cons of Axis vs FMJ.

                              DapperDan...a place to start is by breaking down your current setup into its components and doing the math yourself as to FOC, FPS (done), momentum, etc. and tinker. You might simply achieve what you desire by simply going from a 100gr to 125gr...but then your spine will change (weaken) and you might need to shorten your arrow shaft length...or not. I can shoot 100gr (307 fps) heads and 125gr (297 fps) heads on the Beman Hunter ICS 300 @ 31" to 40yds with only a 4" drop and maintaining a 4" group (not the best not the worst) however I dont try longer distances that you are trying to achieve.

                              Good luck
                              Last edited by Briar Friar; 06-30-2017, 08:33 AM. Reason: FPSspake

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                                #30
                                I like the FMJ's and have never had an issue with them bending that was not easily noticeable. I have had more of an issue with flaring the aluminium right above the insert. But this has always happened after a pass through then hitting rocks. I still have a bunch of axis and still shoot them occosianally. They are both great arrows.

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