If my harbor freight dual rock tumbler ever dies I will upgrade to something bigger but its been going strong for 5 years other than one belt replacement (I'm not recommending it because some people have definitely gotten junk ones. Most of the actual brass tumblers have gone down in price in the last few years. I definitely got my 50 bucks on sale out of it.) I would recommend spending the money on a quality sifting system. It's not a good day when the wife finds stainless pins in the garbage disposal.
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Stainless Tumblers. Which one?
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Originally posted by Kong View PostBuy once cry once, heres the one I use and it’s head and shoulders above anything I’ve used previously. Their not cheap but they work great and you can do a lot of brass at once.
https://big-shot-tumblers.myshopify.com/
It was Lonestar Tumblers when I got mine from him locally in McAllen.
It's built like a tank and will last forever if loaded within it's specs.
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I’ve got one of the ‘ FART’ tumblers (Frankfort Arsenal rotary tumbler). I use a case separator to separate out the SS pins from the cases then dry the cases in a towel to get the surface water off and finally into a cheapo food dehydrator for a bit for the final dry. I use imperial dry neck lube to address potential seating pressure issues.
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This one is pretty good quality. Their customer service is great as well. I'm a fan of leaving some carbon in the necks, but when it has to be absolutely clean it's my go to.
Package Deal Includes: - 5lbs Stainless Steel Media (size is .047"x.255") - Extreme Tumblers Rebel 17 Rotary Tumbler (click here for details) - 12 oz. LemiShine Detergent Note: The 230v is for International use and comes with a UK style plug. You will need to supply the motor with a plug for your country.
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Originally posted by stxhunter View PostI’ve got one of the ‘ FART’ tumblers (Frankfort Arsenal rotary tumbler). I use a case separator to separate out the SS pins from the cases then dry the cases in a towel to get the surface water off and finally into a cheapo food dehydrator for a bit for the final dry. I use imperial dry neck lube to address potential seating pressure issues.
Exactly the same process here.
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Originally posted by Stick1 View PostThis one is pretty good quality. Their customer service is great as well. I'm a fan of leaving some carbon in the necks, but when it has to be absolutely clean it's my go to.
https://stainlesstumblingmedia.com/s...package-2.html
Most people probably can’t see any difference but when you shoot long range it most definitely shows up from my experience. To each thr own and if your a weekend warrior or a seasoned pro you need to research your process before jumping into the pond or at the least know what to look for when you do it.
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Originally posted by JakeGraves View PostI know too many people that have damaged lots of brass from the pins banging up the case necks. Only way to fix this is turn necks and who has time for that garbage?
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Originally posted by JakeGraves View PostI also don’t want to risk having a SS pin get inside of my AMP annealer. I heard they aren’t too good of friends.
I’ve only had issues with the pins sticking in 6.5mm caliber brass. It tends to get stuck in the necks.
Nothing will get brass as clean as ss pin tumbling, especially primer pockets so I will continue to use it. I’ve not seen any Ill effects on case necks being damaged but I only run mine for just long enough to clean the primer pockets which is usually 30-45 minutes tops.
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Originally posted by Mike D View PostI’ve only had issues with the pins sticking in 6.5mm caliber brass. It tends to get stuck in the necks.
Nothing will get brass as clean as ss pin tumbling, especially primer pockets so I will continue to use it. I’ve not seen any Ill effects on case necks being damaged but I only run mine for just long enough to clean the primer pockets which is usually 30-45 minutes tops.
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