You shouldn’t have any in those terminals. That looks fine.
You might be able to get 24v on the R terminal and that mounting screw below. You don’t have a common terminal in that Tstat. It’s getting hard to diagnose now that obvious is out of the way.
With a call for cool, blower comes on but nothing outside. I’d go to the outdoor unit and make sure no Tstat wires were chewed up by rodents and such. Tstat seems to be good. Issue has to be in the wiring or a relay. Might be on a control board.
My advice is not to pay attention to what some are saying.
If you are unfamiliar with the electrical components in the unit DO NOT remove the cover and press to test. That’s stupid advice
Also, if 24v to the contractor is interrupted due to a system safety being open, it’s to prevent damage to the system and manually pushing the contacts bypasses the safety. More stupid advice
Im not sure of terminology but on mine last year the wire that goes from outside unit to inside was broken inside the wire insulation. I tried for a few days in the heat of summer and 2 different ac guys. I finally was going to repull that wire and I was pulling on it and it came apart. It was like finding gold for me.
The contactor was replaced a week or so ago when this all started.
I don't have any drain pan float switch. This is an OLD unit.
I will check the wires tonight. My first thought was the wires, but they looked good. I will look harder.
The switch I found yesterday is the heat pump defrost thermostat/switch. Would that be the issue? It was just hanging down along the side of the compressor.
If your indoor unit will come on, you are definitely getting 24v.
Have you checked to see if you are getting 24v on Y wire outside during a call for cooling?
That defrost thermostat should be attached to the outdoor coil via a little metal clip. On a unit this old, it probably rusted off. It wont affect the unit coming on in cooling mode.
Might be time to call in an expert. Only so much diagnosing can be done over the web.
That old unit costs you money every time it turns on. Consider that before investing too much more time or $$.
I am getting 24 volt power to the yellow red and orange out in the condenser when the thermostat is set to cool. I only get it to the red when the thermostat is turned to off. The yellow goes through a low pressure switch and I get no power on the other side of it. It looks like the thermostat is working in all settings. Here is a picture of the low pressure switch. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be open or closed.
Bypass that low pressure switch. If nothing else it will eliminate that possibility. It's normally closed, so cut and wire nut together. You can put it back in series easily.
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