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What I know about calling coyotes.....

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    What I know about calling coyotes.....

    I get alot of PM's asking questions about varmint hunting....specifically calling coyotes. I have been asked by several to impart some of my knowledge in a thread. Well here goes....

    I will start by saying I am no expert coyote hunter. I don't make a living at it and I haven't won any contests doing it. It's a 25 year long hobby that I have just gotten serious about in the last 5 years. There are many on TBH with more experience than me. I hope they will chime in and add their knowledge as well....especially about night hunting. All of my info is based on daytime calling.

    This is what works for me.....

    Equipment: Here it is in a nut shell(or photo)

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    -Remington R15 in 223 with 18" barrel, P.E.P.R Burris mount, Leupold 3-9x40 VX II, 20rd mag.
    -Winchester SX2 3" auto shotgun with 24" barrel, Hevi-Shot Dead Coyote choke and Tru-glo adjustable turkey sight.
    -FoxPro Fury
    -Hornady 223 55gr. VMax
    -Remington 3" #4 buckshot(41-24cal. pellets)
    -Mojo Critter decoy
    -Mojo Woodpecker decoy
    -Stoney Point bipod(for AR)
    -Primos Trigger Stick(for shotgun)
    -Assortment of hand calls and squeakers

    I usually take most everything pictured on every trip. Thats what the back seat is for. I never no what the situation will dictate, so take it all.

    My rifle will shoot under 1 MOA at 100yds and the shotgun will put 15+ pellets in a 15" circle at 50yds. It took me many targets, many brands of shells and a very sore shoulder to find the combo that would do this.


    Now, to the coyote part. Learn your enemy. Here is some reading that I'm not going to get that far into: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coyote For the most part, everything seems factual here. Gives you some good insight into Canis latrans.

    Stands: I hunt some private land and some public access land. Here is what works for me on stand selection. If you take away one thing from all of this.......I'll repeat that.......if you take away one thing from ALL of this....it's, which way is the wind blowing!

    The single most important thing to me when setting up in a particular area is which direction is the wind blowing. Coyotes will 95% of the time come in down wind of the call. Here in west Texas, S-SW-W is the predominate wind direction unless there is a front blowing in. Most of my stands are set up for these winds. I like to sit with the wind at my back or crossing me. If wind is at me back, call goes down wind and opposite(left or right) of where I expect them to come from. If it's a cross wind, call goes out in front and upwind of me. The exceptions to this rule are young coyotes(that year's pups, they are dumb as a bag of hammers) and coyotes coming to a pup in distress call. I don't know what it is about that call but they come running....use it sparingly.

    I like to be somewhat elevated when calling. It gives me the advantage of being able to see longer distances. As well as they some times blend into their surroundings, they stand out when coming into a call. The sooner you see them, the better. Surprises tend to end in coyote 1, you 0. Elevated anything out here is tough. It's flat, real flat. A small hill, edge of a draw or a mound of dirt that was pushed up is a prize! With elevation comes the opportunity to silhouette yourself. Don't do it! Always keep cover behind yourself. High is good, to high is bad. If the sun is low in moring or evening, keep it at your back if at all possible. Ever walked into the sun? Can't see much, neither can they. It's a big advatage in your favor to keep them blinded.

    Wide open elevated stands aren't always what I am looking for. When the cover is thick, it's down and dirty, close up.....shotgun time!

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    I use the same set up as above but at much closer ranges. Leave as much open ground as possible on down wind side of your call or you if you are using hand calls. This is where the decoy comes in handy. When you are going to be this close to a coyote who hears and smells(I left out sees because I believe we have better vision with the ability to see in color) better than you, you need an advantage. They like wiggly, wobbly things. It's possible dinner to them. This will take their attention off of you for that split second you need to fill them full of lead. I have had them run in and grab the decoy. Decoy is cheap, shoot the coyote. FoxPro is expensive, don't shoot the FoxPro.


    Calls:I'm always asked what is the best call for coyotes.....it depends. I use and try many different ones, it's trial and error with alot of error. Whether you are using mouth calls or an ecaller, you have to learn what works best in your area.

    Here is a list of my favorites:
    Jackrabbit
    Snow Shoe Hare
    Starling
    Blue Jay
    Woodpecker
    Pup distress
    Gray Fox distress
    Red Fox distress
    Fawn distress
    Calf distress
    Female coyote invite
    Male coyote challenge
    Female coyote challenge

    All of these sounds revolve around the 3 F's. Food, Fight and procreation. This is what a coyote does. It eats, defends it's territory and reproduces. A coyote has to eat almost daily. They are very territorial and are social. Play on these three things to get them in range.

    When calling my best advise is call a little and sit alot. Less is better. I have called a coyote from right at a mile away. They can hear you. Slip in, set up, call quietly at first. You never know how close one way be. Think of a coyote like your best furry friend. When they aren't doing the 3 F's, they are sleeping. Coyotes lay up and dose alot. If they are close and awaken to some hellish racket, well he's gonna be outta there. If you get no response, up the volume a little. Wind cares sound very well....and remember, you are set up to call them from that way right.

    I may start with a simple female invite call. This gets the coyotes in the area thinking someone is on my turf! Then go to a "dinner distress" call. Now they are thinking somone is stealing their dinner! Know your enemy. They are starving half the time and very territorial. Bingo, you have set them off on two of the three things they are on this earth to do.


    Taking the shot: Whether its a rifle or shotgun, take the shot at the first opportunity. I've had coyotes coming in on a string and disappear at the last second. They are masters of disappearing. Once they are inside of 100yds, not much is going to get past them. It's their world, you're just hiding in it. Always assume there is more than one coyote. If you get one, immediately go to a coyote distress call. The other will likely be right behind.

    Camoflage: This includes your appearance and SMELL. I am covered head to toe in camo. Mossy Oak Brush and Predator Brown are my faves. And.....wash your stinkin' arse. You think a deer has a good sense of smell....coyotes are up there with blood hounds. Prep clothes and yourself just like you are bowhunting.

    Closing: I heard an old man who hunts coyotes for a living say,"You'll call alot(of stands) and shoot a few." Success rate for me is low. I'd say in the 20% range. Some days better, some worse. It happens, get use to it. Enjoy the success, learn from the failures.

    I learn something new every time out. You should also. Keep notes, mental or a journal. Learn from mistakes, don't chaulk it up to bad luck. Replay a failure on a coyote and don't make the same mistake twice. You are going up against an apex predator, they are smart. You can be smarter if you hone your skills.

    Good luck and K A C!


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    #2
    Thank You Jason for posting this.

    >E

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      #3
      Great write up. Thanks for taking the time

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        #4
        Dang good article that sums it up very well.

        One of these days I am going to have to get one of those fancy Foxpros.

        Now we just need some one to pitch in about night hunting.

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          #5
          Heck ya....

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            #6
            Subscribed and in!

            Awesome write up! I can't wait to go call now! Next week as soon as I can
            I'm hitting the brush!

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              #7
              Will be at the ranch next tuesday... eager to use this advice and see what happens. Been needing to extinguish the local pack we have. Hope to have some LDP's soon. - c

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                #8
                Great post. Thanks.

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                  #9
                  You about covered it all buddy, good write up.. Ive won a lot of varmint hunts over the years but im no profesional either. Im a night time hunter, never been any good at the day time stuff, lack of patience . If you can kill during the day the night time is a piece of cake. I always set up if I can with the opening to the down wind side and use a 12" shield on my Light Force lights with a red lense and never shine the beam at the ground if I can keep from it simply letting the glow of the light light up the eyes and when we see a critters eyes we hold the light off to the side untill ready to shoot and we say fire and who ever is holding the light hits the target normally stopping them in their tracks for a shot.
                  We always cover the windows and windshield of the rig with a black blanket to keep any refelections down and from spooking game. We shine withing the first 3 minutes of calling and then only every 5 minutes with cats normally taking up to 30-40 minutes to come on in. Ive passed many yotes over the years waiting on a cat and Ive killed a ton of them by doing this, mainly because cats are worth more points in a contest normally.
                  Its not hard but just cover your bases, get a red lense and a shield on your light and the killing will come.

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                    #10
                    Great write up.

                    My brother and I predator hunt quite a bit, and this is spot on. As far as night goes, same rules apply with wind direction being #1. Move the light in a quick manner just above ground level. If you get eyes, you will know it. Rookies think everything is glowing eyes until they see some a couple of times. You will know eyes when you get eyes, I promise. Keep the eyes in the halo and DO NOT take the light off of the animal. Have the shooter ID the animal and know what it is before you shoot. Key info, predators (coyotes, fox, bobcats, coons, etc...) have eyes that are very close to each other. If you can only see 1 eye, it is 99.99999999999% not something you are hunting. Also, you can not dependably I.D. an animal by the color of eyes.

                    As mentioned before, after identifying your target, take the first good opportunity to shoot the animal. Those critters are too smart to let hang around too long.

                    Flat shooting rifles and quality optics are very important at night. It also helps to have a light man that can give you good yardage estimates.

                    Finally, it is key to have a good flashlight and a side arm when retrieving your animals. Walking up on an injured bobcat is for the birds. Experience has proven this more than once!
                    Last edited by Tommy_V; 01-31-2012, 11:15 PM.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Ol Thumper View Post
                      You about covered it all buddy, good write up.. Ive won a lot of varmint hunts over the years but im no profesional either. Im a night time hunter, never been any good at the day time stuff, lack of patience . If you can kill during the day the night time is a piece of cake. I always set up if I can with the opening to the down wind side and use a 12" shield on my Light Force lights with a red lense and never shine the beam at the ground if I can keep from it simply letting the glow of the light light up the eyes and when we see a critters eyes we hold the light off to the side untill ready to shoot and we say fire and who ever is holding the light hits the target normally stopping them in their tracks for a shot.
                      We always cover the windows and windshield of the rig with a black blanket to keep any refelections down and from spooking game. We shine withing the first 3 minutes of calling and then only every 5 minutes with cats normally taking up to 30-40 minutes to come on in. Ive passed many yotes over the years waiting on a cat and Ive killed a ton of them by doing this, mainly because cats are worth more points in a contest normally.
                      Its not hard but just cover your bases, get a red lense and a shield on your light and the killing will come.
                      I had never thought about getting a shield for our spotlights. Now that I think about it that is a dang good idea I will have to rig some up before I go out again.

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                        #12
                        Here is a pic of my original Varmint light, this one is over 15 years old and still works great but my others have a shorter shield. I like the handle on the bottom as well. I just put a new lense on this one so I having finished wrapping it up in electrical tape. This light has killed hundreds of yotes and cats over the years.
                        Attached Files

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by westtexducks View Post
                          I had never thought about getting a shield for our spotlights. Now that I think about it that is a dang good idea I will have to rig some up before I go out again.
                          If you ever get about a hundreds yards away with someone shining a light around without a shield you can see people moving and a ton of things are reflecting light, this was the biggest change we ever made and it helps a TON in not spooking them.

                          Ive used stove pipe material and rolled my own out of aluminum, the handle is really nice though on the bottom

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                            #14
                            I use a Silent Halo Shied, a neoprene shield that works great. Here is the link:

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Tommy_V View Post
                              I use a Silent Halo Shied, a neoprene shield that works great. Here is the link:

                              http://www.boondock-outdoors.com/Sil...lo_Shield.html
                              I will defenitly be getting a few of these ordered I have taped up my lights around the edges but have never really gotten rid of all of the over flow that shines on the truck when you are doing you circle this is a dang good idea.

                              Thanks for the link.

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