Sniper Hog Light Review

[gonehuntin68]

Seems like a good thread to ask, anybody else have issues with the pressure switch/caps? I bought a used set here in the classifieds and it's got two normal caps and a cap with the pressure switch. One switch works great so I just use that without problems and didn't think much of it. The other two seem to have to be "tweaked" perfectly to work but then they're inconsistent. Also the extra length on the batteries surprised me. I tried putting in normal 18650 batteries because I've got a bunch and they don't reach the contact points. I got three factory batteries that came with it so it's not a big deal for now but eventually they'll age out I'm sure.

Our lights are designed for Protected 18650 batteries and Protected 18650 batteries are longer than unprotected 18650 batteries due to the built in protection circuit. To get the light to work with unprotected 18650 batteries, all you need to do is to unscrew the LED module and stretch the spring out a little on the back of the LED module and screw it back in. Also, if your LED module is not screwed all the way in, it can cause the issue your talking about of the tail caps not working properly. The LED module can unscrew itself a little over time from changing out the battery and from vibration so please check to make sure the LED module is screwed in all the way. Also make sure the tail cap is screwed on all the way on. If those two things don't fix the issue, you will need to send it back for repair. We will repair it for free the day we receive it and send it back to you the next business day. Please send me a PM if you want to send it back for repair and I will send you the info to send it back. You can also call us and we can talk about it over the phone if you like.

Please note that if you use a Unprotected 18650 battery in the light, you can damage the battery because the light can drain the battery too and that damages the battery and that is why we designed the lights for a protected battery. The protection circuit in the protected battery will cut power from the battery before the battery can be drained too low. For example, if you have a unprotected battery in the light and accidentally leave the light on it will drain the battery all the way down and probably ruin it. With a protected battery, it will not be able to drain the battery all the way down because it will cut power from the battery when the battery reaches about 2.7V thus protecting the battery from damage.

[justletmein]

Our lights are designed for Protected 18650 batteries and Protected 18650 batteries are longer than unprotected 18650 batteries due to the built in protection circuit. To get the light to work with unprotected 18650 batteries, all you need to do is to unscrew the LED module and stretch the spring out a little on the back of the LED module and screw it back in. Also, if your LED module is not screwed all the way in, it can cause the issue your talking about of the tail caps not working properly. The LED module can unscrew itself a little over time from changing out the battery and from vibration so please check to make sure the LED module is screwed in all the way. Also make sure the tail cap is screwed on all the way on. If those two things don't fix the issue, you will need to send it back for repair. We will repair it for free the day we receive it and send it back to you the next business day. Please send me a PM if you want to send it back for repair and I will send you the info to send it back. You can also call us and we can talk about it over the phone if you like.

Please note that if you use a Unprotected 18650 battery in the light, you can damage the battery because the light can drain the battery too and that damages the battery and that is why we designed the lights for a protected battery. The protection circuit in the protected battery will cut power from the battery before the battery can be drained too low. For example, if you have a unprotected battery in the light and accidentally leave the light on it will drain the battery all the way down and probably ruin it. With a protected battery, it will not be able to drain the battery all the way down because it will cut power from the battery when the battery reaches about 2.7V thus protecting the battery from damage.

Thanks for the heads up on the batteries, makes sense. I'm not the original owner, bought the whole rig used here on TBH, so wasn't sure on any warranties and all that. One tail cap works great and I've changed the LEDs back and forth for different colors so nothing's wrong with the light or light setup I don't think. It's just the other tail cap is inconsistent and the pressure switch cap pretty much never works. I wasn't really too worried about it because the one cap is fine. I really like the light but don't hunt at night much so the one tailcap is perfectly fine. I was just curious if it was something people have seen before or if this light had maybe seen a lot of time in the field.

[gonehuntin68]

Good thread…..I have been looking at them for a little while……. Good information

My biggest issue is not wanting to be sweating my you know what’s off just to shoot a feral pig.

I understand this and that is why in the Spring and Summer all our feeders don't go off until right after dark. This way I don't have to get to my stand until the sun goes down. I also don't hunt out of blinds because they are too hot, I'm either hunting out of ladder stands, tripods or just a chair on the ground. I also wont hunt unless there is at least a 10mph wind. When you do this, it is not that hot out and I'm not sweating my you know what off. Well that is until it's time to track the hog and drag it, then I get really sweaty but for me it's more than worth. Pigs always seem to pattern much better in late spring and summer. I think this has to do with less hunters in the woods and less feeders running overall. I also believe in feeding much more than anyone else in my area because if there is 3-4 feeders all within about the same distance from the pigs bedding area, they are going to go to the feeder that is throwing the most corn first. This means I don't have to sit as late because the hogs come to my feeders first. My feeders go off for 12 seconds right after dark and then another 12 seconds about 1 hour after dark. I don't even hunt a feeder unless the hogs are coming in before the second feeding. I have the second feeding mainly for the bigger boars because the bigger boars tend to not move until after dark in my area and I want there to be corn on the ground when they start moving.

Here is some more tips that I've learned over the years.

1 - Make sure your feeding enough to make your spot very attractive for hogs to want to hit your spot first.
2 - If you hunting over a feeder, never put out something new when your hunting it. This will more than likely spook the pigs. This includes throwing out a bunch of extra corn. Sure you can still kill pigs doing this but your cutting your chances down. You don't want your setup to look any different or smell any different than it does when your not there.
3 - Never walk through the area of your bait within a few hours of hunting that spot. Smart pigs will bust you if you do. It doesn't matter if you wearing rubber boots and all kinds of scent killer, they can still bust you. I've seen hogs bust my scent from where I walked 6 hours after I walked it with rubber boots.
4 - Pigs have great hearing, you need to be quiet while on stand. When it's dark out, you could have pigs within 20 yards of you and not even know it. If they hear you, you will probably not even know they busted you.
5 - Don't shoot at other animals if you want to kill a pig. I learned this the hard way because I was always shooting raccoons before the pigs came in and the pigs would smell my arrow or the blood from the raccoon and bust me. Sure you can get away with it sometimes but not every time. I wont shoot a raccoon until I'm ready to leave.
6 - I wont hunt pigs unless I have at least a 10mph wind because any less than that and the wind tends to swirl and pigs have too good of nose and will bust you most of the time when bow hunting. I also don't like to have a wall of brush or tree's behind me and to the left and right of me because that will also cause the wind to swirl. I like to set up in or right in front of a loan tree or bush. This way the wind doesn't have anything to hit and swirl around, it just blows straight through.
7 - Do not bow hunt a spot if the wind isn't right, once pigs bust you by smell they have a tendency to circle downwind before they come in after that and if the pigs start coming in downwind, your going to have a tough time killing them at that spot.
8 - If your hunting pigs much from a feeder, you should move that feeder every 1 - 2 years because eventually the pigs are going to learn your setup and they will continually come in from down wind making that spot very difficult to kill pigs with a bow. You don't have to move it far but move it at least 100 yards. Now if you also hunting deer of that feeder and deer are more important to you, it would probably be best to not move the feeder.

Now with all that said, I'm only saying what works best for me, if you don't agree that is OK. One of the great things about hunting is figuring out what works best for you.