Help with Palmer bow - brace height, arrows

[cb4128]

Hi, hoping to get some help. I’ve been wanting to give trad archery for years and always wanted a Palmer bow. Just got one today, 60” 45# at 28”. I have a new string for it but was needing some help with brace height? Can’t find anything online that shows the proper brace height.

Also, any suggestions on arrows, spine and tip weight?

My thoughts were gold tip traditional arrows and 125gr points, full length.
Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated!

[MEsquivel]

You’ll need to find the sweet spot.
Id say anywhere between 7 1/2” and 8 1/4”.
Try each by 1/4” and see which one vibrates less and is quieter.

[mikebyrge]

1916 aluminum arrows would be good out of that now.

[cb4128]

Ok thanks guys! If my draw is 28-29”, should I run full length arrows or what length?

[caughtandhobble]

I'd start at 8" on the brace height... Gt Trad 30.5" 3555's with 125grain will get you real close to where you want to be. Good luck my friend.

[CRM_95]

I'd start at 8" on the brace height... Gt Trad 30.5" 3555's with 125grain will get you real close to where you want to be. Good luck my friend.

^^^Listen to this guy^^^. He's a walking encyclopedia for bow tuning, I promise. Congrats and enjoy, there's nothing like it!!

[Chew]

I'd start at 8" on the brace height... Gt Trad 30.5" 3555's with 125grain will get you real close to where you want to be. Good luck my friend.

I'll echo about listening to this guy. Hi Ben!

My palmer was very close to 8" BH. A little less

[RJH1]

Why don't you call Mike Palmer. He knows a thing or 2 about those bows and is a middling shot, so he might have a suggestion on the arrows too

[SwampRabbit]

Listen to what Ben (caughtandhobble) suggested. It's a good start.

Since you are starting out with trad and jumping in on a decently weighted draw (45-48# at you DL) I would start there and give it some time. You might find that you are short drawing because you aren't used to holding that much weight (compared to the let off of a compound.) So, you might get some weird flight as you try and develop consistent, good form. Don't worry about tuning beyond that until you are shooting consistently.

have fun! It is addicting as all get out.

[jerp]

I will echo what swamprabbit said. When starting in trad out I drove myself crazy trying to tune arrows before my form got consistent. Until you are drawing and anchoring the same way every time tuning can be a frustrating exercise in futility. The advice above will give you a good starting point.

[Briar Friar]

Being as addictive as Trad is...I would highly suggest starting out very very slowly. A FEW shots a day...not umpteen gazillion shot sessions. The constant strain/tension on the muscles, joints, and ligaments can be quite taxing to the unadjusted body. Its really hard to not go balls to the wall but...your body will let you know...listen to it.

Good luck and God bless.
Byron

[ballgame]

Lots of good advice listed above and I think Caughtandhobble has you at a good starting point.

Just remember; Tuning is a process, it is ever evolving, so take your time.
It is Not a one and done process.
Strap on your helmet and enjoy the ride.

There are a number of variables that go into this. - don't get frustrated.

After 8 years of doing this I still tweak my tuning all the time.

Different strings affect your tuning.

Strings "mature", they stretch, they just act different over time. Until they are "broken in" you will still see changes.

Your form will also change over time.

I own 4 Palmer Bows and at least 6 sets of limbs, some of which have the exact same specs yet they each like something a little bit different.

I am friends with Mike and I know what he will tell you.... he is going to give you a recommended brace height range and tell you to shoot the bow to tune it. Meaning- do what the arrow tells you.

Here is one thing I do know about his bows: The brace height needs to be 7.5 or above. They just seem shoot better/quieter/faster right around 7.5 to 7 3/4.

Your nockpoint should be 1/2" to 3/4" above center.

3 under requires a higher nockpoint than split.

If shooting 3 under, install a nockpoint under your arrow nock. So 2 nocks on the string. One above and one under.

I suggest using a tie on nockpoint that can be adjust by hand. I hate the metal nockpoints. They are hard to adjust and can get burs.

Hope this helps.

[cb4128]

Very cool, thanks guys!

[cb4128]

First impression

Shot some axis 400 traditionals today, brass inserts, 125gr point, 30.5” long and played with brace height. 8” on the dot seemed to shoot pretty well. Was mostly all over the place but managed 2 good arrows at 12 yards before I quit.

Lots of fun! Thanks for the insight everyone

[Bisch]

Whatever you do, don’t miss that deer, or your arrow is toast!!! 🤣🤣🤣

Bisch


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