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2020 “modified buffalo” fall plot

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    #91
    Originally posted by gingib View Post
    My plot is very tall and not tender anymore. If I plan on platnting Spring Lablab/Peas, do you recommend planting into my standing winter plot?

    Should I shred it down once now to promote fresh tender growth for the 30-45 days and then grain drill it and shred it again to help cover seed? Curious on your thoughts
    I’d let it go till April. Spray, wait 2 weeks. Shred and plant or plant and break down whatever you have access too

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      #92
      Originally posted by EastTexun View Post
      I have shred oats when they got too high with good results, and I do plant legumes directly into my standing oats/wheat/cereal rye every year. can't speak for OP, but I don't do a follow up shred once I plant...but sometimes I will do a gly burndown. Depends on time of year, etc.
      Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
      I’d let it go till April. Spray, wait 2 weeks. Shred and plant or plant and break down whatever you have access too
      I am here to learn and just picking brains.

      My thoughts: Why not leave the current plot standing and let it die off naturally or shred it very low for a thatch layer once the other seen been in the ground 7-10 days? Seems like keeping it growing and standing, gives the summer plot to grow and hide under the winter plot.

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        #93
        Every region is different to a degree. But if I let mine die naturally... it would be mid to late June. Way too late to plant. If I shred without spraying I leave too much competition and spring weeds in the plot. If I could only do 1, I’d chose spraying over shredding. I really prefer spraying and rolling. Crimping isn’t that great in my area because the stems are not ready to snap at planting time like up north. I find it works best for me to just kill it and be done. (But I have the equipment for it, so it’s easy for me to choose that route)

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          #94
          Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
          Every region is different to a degree. But if I let mine die naturally... it would be mid to late June. Way too late to plant. If I shred without spraying I leave too much competition and spring weeds in the plot. If I could only do 1, I’d chose spraying over shredding. I really prefer spraying and rolling. Crimping isn’t that great in my area because the stems are not ready to snap at planting time like up north. I find it works best for me to just kill it and be done. (But I have the equipment for it, so it’s easy for me to choose that route)
          My feelings exactly. By the time I have pulled a drill with cultipacker or a planter through there, most of the standing forage is now knocked down, and it does a pretty good job of creating a barrier over the bare ground, but it doesn't hinder new seed germination. After doing essentially no till for several years I am building up a pretty solid layer of thatch that I am either going to have to burn off or lightly disc in, or switch to a true no-till drill.

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            #95
            Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
            I’d let it go till April. Spray, wait 2 weeks. Shred and plant or plant and break down whatever you have access too
            SO my question is: how are you getting a 2-3 week head start and hiding the summer plot growth from the deer if your spraying it dead?

            Because if you shred the dead plot, that maybe a few inches of cover huh?

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              #96
              I’m able to plant earlier due to soil temperatures. They increase with organisms increasing and plant matter decomposition. I hide the planting, NOT by keeping it out of sight, but by not drawing them to begin with. Once plots are mature there is no reason for a deer to be there. Once it’s all dead, there for sure ain’t a reason for a deer to be there. Plowed ground will draw deer faster than a corn pile. I don’t break ground.... so they don’t know it’s planted. They find it once it gets better established and can compete.

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                #97
                Since its bigger seed my best bet is to grain drill it huh?

                If I recall it needs to be 3/4-1 inch in the ground.

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                  #98
                  Drilling would certainly be best. But if you have enough thatch to cover it will certainly work great. Bigger seeds have more stored energy and will sprout with water very quick (3-5 days). So if going that route don’t spread too soon and burn up all your thatch before the seeds get started

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                    #99
                    Will this method work with dove plots such as sesame, milo, millet and sunflower? If so will the thatch decompose enough for dove to walk and find seed?

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                      Originally posted by eyedoc View Post
                      Will this method work with dove plots such as sesame, milo, millet and sunflower? If so will the thatch decompose enough for dove to walk and find seed?
                      Still up for debate there... but not looking real good. I broadcast this method with black oil and pearl headmillet is was basically a total fail. .... but I drilled my main plots and they were 100% fail... years past, same seed, same methods it would rival a commercial crop. Not sure the issue

                      As for the thatch. Yes it would decompose enough. Seed rate and plant crowding were my problems in past broadcast into plowed dirt

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                        Thanks. I think overcrowding was my issue last yr too. Looked awesome at first and then kind of fizzled.

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                          Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
                          Drilling would certainly be best. But if you have enough thatch to cover it will certainly work great. Bigger seeds have more stored energy and will sprout with water very quick (3-5 days). So if going that route don’t spread too soon and burn up all your thatch before the seeds get started
                          Theoretically, since I didn't disk and turn the ground over and sprayed and grain drilled my seed for my winter plot, summer weeds should not be a huge issue right? I know there will be some, but not a major thing I wouldnt expect

                          Spraying sucks for me equipment wise. So I am thinking of doing this and curious your thoughts:

                          1. Grain drill/broadcast my beans in April, then Shred my current plot very low to build up thatch and cover the seed more. I am leaning towards this as they will still feed on the current plot in april and give my beans a chance to grow.

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                            That should work well. And yes, in theory your weeds should be far less

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
                              That should work well. And yes, in theory your weeds should be far less
                              Theoretically is the key. I would plan to have some pretty significant weed pressure either way, as the seed bank is rich unless you have done a pretty robust spraying regimen.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by EastTexun View Post
                                Theoretically is the key. I would plan to have some pretty significant weed pressure either way, as the seed bank is rich unless you have done a pretty robust spraying regimen.
                                Ultimately, unless I freshly disk it right before or spray it I will still have weeds.

                                I am just weighing the benefits of building the thatch layer and keeping food for them to eat while the beans sprout and grow.

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