Cutting a Propane Tank

[JES]

I underestimated the heat output when it was 17 degrees...

Things are working well. Just need a few adjustments when we can get a welder out here.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That turned out awesome, betcha can’t get too close to it when it’s fully loaded like that.

[Strummer]

Where did you find the tank ?

[Texas Grown]

That looks nice n cozy for a cool day!

[TexasCanesFan]

Love D Mo projects. Turned out awesome. Nice hangout spot.

[Box-R]

Where did you find the tank ?

X2
I'm also looking for a big tank (1000 gallon/6-7ft) size for a field roller proj.

[Dale Moser]

It was an old 100 gallon tank that was my grandads, it was too old to have recertified.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[spidermonkey]

Looking good, and toasty, Dale! Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty

[SAC]

Dale, do you wish the combustion chamber would be lower relative to the door. I really like this design, just thinking about reloading in an area that small. As opposed to open the door and "drop" it in.

[Dale Moser]

No, not really. The design was based on airflow, and doing everything I could to keep it from smoking back out the door when we want to burn it with the door open, or around the door, or air shutter when the door is closed.

To that end, the ash drawer is as low as possible, then the air shutter above that so ash doesn’t get in it. Also so the air shutter is below the combustion area to fuel the fire from underneath and promote complete combustion (less coals/ash, more heat). The door opening is fairly large and easy to load wood into, maybe larger than it looks (I think 10 1/4”WX12” or so y’all). I havnt burned my hand or arm or anything...yet. The upper stiffener on the door is angled up and back, again to push smoke away from the door. If the combustion is happening below the door, then the smoke is going to be “rolling” at door level, which could make it puff out around the door. The actual fire/combustion area is as low as possible to leave the big open area for a smoke chamber above it so that the smoke can “roll” in it before exiting via the flue. Smoke always has to “roll” in any fire, before it goes up. Watch your campfire, brushfire, in your fireplace, etc. it has to roll before it will enter the flue, otherwise it will “back puff” toward the door. That’s also part of the reason I set the flue back some.

The general airflow from start to finish is supposed to go from bottom front, and work steadily toward top back, with room to roll above the fire.

I know that’s a lot more than anyone wanted to know, but that’s why the design is what it is. It smokes zero out the front, even with the door open, but I can’t tell you it’s all because of my design, or if it would work fine done differently. There are endless design options that could work fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SLICK_N_STICKY]

Get about 300 yards away and shoot a hole in it and your good to go. If you're not comfortable shoot another hole in it. Let us know how this works.

[Agdog]

Get about 300 yards away and shoot a hole in it and your good to go. If you're not comfortable shoot another hole in it. Let us know how this works.

I think you’re a little late to the party!

[Dale Moser]

Works pretty good tonight..




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RifleBowPistol]

I will tell you a trick a buddy of mine taught me, before he died. No, he did not get blown up. I don't remember how the situation came up, but he started telling me about needing to weld up a gas tank. My first thought was, I got to go, before you get started on that job. Walt surprised me a few times with his junkyard education.

His trick, is to get a car or truck back it up to the gas tank. connect a hose to the exhaust pipe, put the other end of the hose in the gas tank. Then fire up the vehicle and let it run for a while, to make sure you have completely replaced all of the air in the tank, with exhaust fumes. Then leave the vehicle running and go to town welding.

Walt told me he would not even bother to drain any of the fuel from the tank. No oxygen in the tank, the fuel can not ignite. He welded many gas tanks that way for years, never had a problem. I have seen him weld tanks that way, with the tank 3/4s full of fuel.

On the other hand, a dealership I worked at, a customer came in with a truck with a custom made plate steel tank on the back of his truck, that was leaking. One of the guys at the dealer, said he could weld up the tank. So he drained all the fuel, then put a water hose in the tank and filled the tank with water, then let the water run, with the tank overflowing with water, then went to lunch. When he came back, he shut the water off and drained the water out of the tank. Then went and got the stick welder, to weld the tank. They say as soon as he struck an arc on that tank, it blew up, sent him flying. Blew the tank to pieces. Blew each of the pieces that the tank was made of a different direction.

So using water do get all the fuel from the tank, does not always work. If you have no oxygen, it does not matter, it can not ignite.