I've shot the same set up since 2009 and had it shooting darts with numerous bh's. But since I put new string on I haven't gotten it back to my standards
I've shot the same set up since 2009 and had it shooting darts with numerous bh's. But since I put new string on I haven't gotten it back to my standards
Could you explain that in terms I can understand.. Lol
Starting rotation means my nocking point?
sure, let me be a little more specific.
there is a relationship between the rest, nocking point and cam starting rotation. if one of these is changed then vertical stringing can occur. when the bow was previously set up with the old string (when new) there was a starting rotation on the cam, more than likely the rest was installed with the arrow running through the berger(s) and the nock point set somewhere close to perpendicular. without making any changes to the rest we can change vertical poi by either adding or removing twists (aka retarding or advancing the cam(s)). the nock point is simply a reference as it floats on the string relative to the rest but has no relationship to the draw force curve imparted by the cams eccentrics. therefore you are essentially trying to fix bad rotation on the cam by overcoming it with the nocking point.
most bows should tune pretty close to nock level, or slightly high ( 1/8"). this means that the starting rotation is pretty close to optimal, with the best way to tell is by running the bow through a chrono as most bows will make optimal speed this way. of course, this can be magnified by broadheads like most tuning problems but may not be evident shooting field tips.
there is a relationship between the rest, nocking point and cam starting rotation. if one of these is changed then vertical stringing can occur. when the bow was previously set up with the old string (when new) there was a starting rotation on the cam, more than likely the rest was installed with the arrow running through the berger(s) and the nock point set somewhere close to perpendicular. without making any changes to the rest we can change vertical poi by either adding or removing twists (aka retarding or advancing the cam(s)). the nock point is simply a reference as it floats on the string relative to the rest but has no relationship to the draw force curve imparted by the cams eccentrics. therefore you are essentially trying to fix bad rotation on the cam by overcoming it with the nocking point.
most bows should tune pretty close to nock level, or slightly high ( 1/8"). this means that the starting rotation is pretty close to optimal, with the best way to tell is by running the bow through a chrono as most bows will make optimal speed this way. of course, this can be magnified by broadheads like most tuning problems but may not be evident shooting field tips.
Thank you sir, I am a little picky about my bow. Good info bud thanks
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