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restoring a recurve

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    restoring a recurve

    This is txfireguy2003"s 1970-72 Fred Bear Kodiak Magnum 45#@28".Click image for larger version

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ID:	24891469When I got it there was no string and a crack below the riser insert and the top limb was twisted just a little. First thing I did was straighten the limb by taking a wet towel and heating it in microwave till steaming, wrapped it around limb where twisted and let it sit for a little. After 3-5 minutes or so I removed towel and "over twisted" the limb in the opposite direction and held it till cool. Seemed to fix the twist. I then made a string for it and strung it and shot it several times and made sure the crack didn't expand any more. Keep watching I'll post as work is done.

    #2
    Thanks for the heads up in the trad forum. I'll be watching this one.

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      #3
      As ya'll can see the finish has a ton of crackling in it and will need to be totally removed, to do that means a lot of sanding!!

      Click image for larger version

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ID:	24056835Oh, a disclaimer. I did quite a bit of research and reading before I started and I'm a rookie at this. Anyhow, too many curves and we don't want to sand into the fiberglass too deep nor take too much off of the sides of the limbs so power tools are more risk than benefit. Its all hand sanding!! If we get into the fiberglass too deep or take too much off the sides of the limbs it could affect the poundage, tillering, or even cause limb twist.I'm using some foam insulation board scrap to pad the limbs on the work bench. I'm using 100grit to get the old finish off then going over it one time with 220 to get it a little smoother.Click image for larger version

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ID:	24056839this pic shows just how yellowed the riser has gotten. I didn't get many pics. of the sanding.
      Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012, 03:51 PM.

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        #4
        I found a guy that reproduces decals for older bows and ordered a set to replace these. Txfireguys bow was also missing the coin and I found where to order replacements, got one on the way. I removed the riser insert and buffed it clean then sprayed clear coat on it.Click image for larger version

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ID:	24056846I'll use a 5 minute epoxy to replace the insert when the time comes. Here you can see where I have used some commercial grade super glue to start the repair of the crack.Click image for larger version

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ID:	24056847 I'll give it a day to cure the use a scraper to remove excess glue and repeat the process two more times.
        Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012, 03:58 PM.

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          #5
          Looking great so far.

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            #6
            Wow man, like I said earlier, when you offered to refurbish it, I just figured you'd sand it a little and spray a coat of clear on it. You're going way above and beyond! Those pics of the riser face all sanded and white have me excited! Pretty nice for a bow my brother FOUND in his garage!

            Sent from my Samsung Captivate using Tapatalk.

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              #7
              More in just a bit.....

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                #8
                Ok, Like I said I didn't take many pics of the sanding, just lots of dust and sore fingers!!! Up to this point I guess I have about 10-12 hours into it. I have finish sanding and really should wait till a warmer dryer day to clear coat it but I couldn't wait!!! I had to at least put one quick coat on the riser to see what its going to look like! Yes, I'm using Minwax Helsman Spar Urethane from a rattle can. Some guys don't like rattle cans but I seem to have really good luck with them, if I need to I'll get the spray rig out and use my detailing spray gun. I'll put three light coats on over a period of 8-10 minutes and let it cure, then I'll wet sand with 2000 grit, repeat at least five times on the riser then four more times on the entire bow. Last pics for the night and it will be three days before I can do any more on it. Sanded riser. Click image for larger version

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ID:	24056859First coat. Click image for larger version

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ID:	24056861Second coat, need to put third on, let cure then wet sand, repeat, repeat........Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012, 04:42 PM.

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                  #9
                  Wow! That looks excellent! I can't wait to see it all finished!

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                    #10
                    Great job I've done a few and have another in the work I've never pulled the insert thou.

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                      #11
                      Looking good !! I like to see restorations like this.

                      They sure did pick out nice wood for the risers.

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                        #12
                        Restless, I used fine thread all thread as an extension. If you heat the all thread and then put it in the insert, then let it transfer the heat it helps to loosen the old adhesive.

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                          #13
                          Sticbow, I've never gotten around to building that recurve yet. I just finally got my hands on a good bandsaw to use. So, after this restoration I'm going to get busy on building my first! I guess I really like this kind of project, I already have three more to work on from another buddy! Two bears and one Stemmler!
                          Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012, 06:15 PM.

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                            #14
                            I wouldn't pull an insert unless I intended to plug it. I haven't had an issue with sanding around it by hand, to much chance of damaging the fiberglass. I love those Bear bows BTW and i used to find a few camo painted bows on the auction site to refinish but not so much anymore. I have a 1960 Kodiak on the work bench now but the finish had all but rotted off or I would have left that one alone

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                              #15
                              I can understand what you mean about damaging the fiberglass. I wanted to pull this one because of the crack and not knowing how bad it was.

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