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Boat transom replacement help

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    #16
    Originally posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
    The pour in is just a high density urethane foam. Same thing as the gap filler foam you buy at Lowes but a 15-20# density versus 1.9#. I use PET foam board and tie it in with carbon fiber and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass and polyester resin. You have to gusset the transom loads into the lower portion of the hull or you’ll eventually have problems no matter what you do.

    Hard to tell what all is busted out from your pic but just holding my thumb up and closing one eye I’d say $1350 What size motor are you running and do you have a jack plate?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    I haven’t posted any pictures. My boat is still in tact. No jack plate and a 115 hp outboard.

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      #17
      Is a bad transom a thing for Skeeters? Seems like I have heard of skeeters more than any other brand.

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        #18
        Watching


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          #19
          Skeeters made a lot of transoms that rot pretty bad back in the day. My boat was a 99 and it rotted. Not sure when they got rid of the wood.

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            #20
            It aint the wood, its the seam between the cap and the bottom hull. Cajuns were built the same way.

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              #21
              I did a pourable in my garage on my 97 nitro with a 200 Merc.

              Borrowed a cherry picker, bought a kit to do it, and took me two solid days without wife or kid interruptions.

              It was labor intensive and terrible but worth it at the time. $300 or so total in materials, tools, and what not... We fished out of it twice a week for a spring/summer. Sold the boat for twice what I bought it for.

              My .02

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                #22
                How is that done ?only videos I’ve found is cutting the inside or outside of the transom to replace the wood. Also how hard is it to re-fiberglass the repair


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                  #23
                  Originally posted by coy-ote View Post
                  How is that done ?only videos I’ve found is cutting the inside or outside of the transom to replace the wood. Also how hard is it to re-fiberglass the repair


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                  You cut the cap off with a cutting wheel. Save the piece you cut off and put it back on with a little fiberglass work when you get done repairing the transom. The hardest part of the job is digging out the rot.

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                    #24
                    And that rigidity ties into the existing wood during expansion or does the rigidity by itself provide structural strength


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                      #25
                      I'm going to finish doing what I need to do to get this boat out on the water and see how it actually performs before spending much money on it. Once I get it on the water and it does ok I'll tear into the transom and do it myself.

                      Surprisingly everything on the boat still works as it should. I hooked a battery and water hose to the motor and it fired right up and seems to run great. Might be a different story on the water though.

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                        #26
                        Ill come watch!!!! Just say when lol

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                          #27
                          I did a pour-in fix 10 years ago on a 16 ft bass boat and it worked great. I sold the boat about 2 years later, so I'm not sure how well it lasted beyond that.

                          If you want it to last I'd go with 175gr7.62's deal.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
                            The pour in is just a high density urethane foam. Same thing as the gap filler foam you buy at Lowes but a 15-20# density versus 1.9#. I use PET foam board and tie it in with carbon fiber and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass and polyester resin. You have to gusset the transom loads into the lower portion of the hull or you’ll eventually have problems no matter what you do.

                            Hard to tell what all is busted out from your pic but just holding my thumb up and closing one eye I’d say $1350 What size motor are you running and do you have a jack plate?


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            The pour stuff I've seen sets up hard, I know the composite transoms they build today is a foam substance called coosa board, some replace wood transoms with coosa.
                            Last edited by bossbowman; 06-13-2019, 10:44 AM.

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                              #29
                              I snapped a picture of her today while I was cleaning up outside. Almost ready to take it to the lake and see how it does. If it runs good I’ll worry about the transom then if I don’t sink it on my first run.

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                                #30
                                Clean for its age, I would rebuild the transom on that one instead of the pour. Kinda bounce the motor by hand, does the transom flex any?, you can also take a big socket and tap around the motor transom bolts, if there are any dead sounding spots its probably compromised.
                                Last edited by bossbowman; 07-06-2019, 03:51 PM.

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