Tractor Hydrolics question

[Big_gun]

Did mine on my L3130. It’s not that bad if you buy a seal installer tool. I would also suggest a
Good pick set to get old seals out. It bends the inner seal so you can drop it in easier. Parts can be had on messicks Kubota.

Seal tool https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-SET-Seal...765218&sr=8-11


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[Mule Skinner]

I recently bought a place with a Kubota L2800. I too don't know squat about tractors. Started it up Saturday for the first time as it had been sitting a while. While sitting and letting it idle, I raised and lowered the front and loader and then noticed that is started leaking in the same place as the OP.

Came back home and did some Googling and found a video on Youtube. Looks like the hardest part will be to remove the loader. A set of new seals costs about $80 for about $2 worth of seals. A spanner wrench will be needed for the project.

Figured I better start learning how to do this stuff myself instead of relying on a shop.

[W-O]

Replaced them not long ago on my Father's L3400. If you do it yourself make sure you lay everything out as you take it apart so you know how it will go back together, and no one moves them. Some of the seals are a pain to get back in but it can be done. Good luck and it is not that hard to do.

[waffles]

Changing those seals are very easy, there are many YouTube videos that will walk you through it step by step.

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[Dusty Britches]

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?

[ramrod]

Not a five minute job, some can be a bugger to take apart. Seals are in the threaded nut piece on the end of the cylinder that seal around the chrome shaft.

[Huntindad]

After watching a video about removing the cylinders and how to pull/replace the seals and what tools are required...

I think I will pull the cylinders and look to see if a hydrolic shop or Kubota can do the R & R on the seals.

[dclifton]

When you say, it needs new seals and to pull it off, is it just a matter of pulling the hoses off and taking the whole line into a shop? Is there a reason this would be difficult?

I have Deere that is starting to do the same thing on a few lines. Are the seals basically in the hose end pieces?

Could be different issues. There are seals in the cylinder itself. Rod gland seals and piston seals. They can be tricky and unless you have some tools you might be better off to take to a local hydraulic shop.

Hoses leaking are just a matter of taking those off and having them remade somewhere. Now if you have Oring face seal fittings depends on what tractor brand etc. You may have a bad oring in the adapter. You can take the hose loose and see if your adapter has a flat face with an oring in it. If so it may just need replacing.

Tell tell sing of oring being bad is if fluid is leaking around the nut where the hose is connected to the adapter. Its either loose or oring is bad if its ORFS.

If hoses is leaking anywhere around the crimp or rubber area then hose will need to be remade.



OP problem is bad rod gland seals in his cylinder. But since he is there he needs to replace rod gland seals and piston seals. On both cylinders. My suggestion is go ahead and pull lift cylinders and tilt. Will save yourself some money in hydraulic fluid by doing it now vs later. Nowdays when a newer tractor starts leaking it wont be long and they will all start to leak. But at minimum he needs to do both tilt cylinders now.

[ThisLadyHunts]

Had the same issue, you just need new seals. Pull it off and take to a hydraulic shop or dealer. I found the hydraulic shop a little cheaper. Recommend doing both sides though even if the other one is not leaking

Good advice about doing both at the same time.

PS, the picture you're using as your avatar is just precious!

[Dusty Britches]

Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.

[dclifton]

Ok, so mine is actually leaking from here.

So one of 2 issues. Hoses is bad at the crimp. Or depending on it its ORFS you may need to just replace the oring at the nut. where the hose connects to the adapter. Most of the newer equipment is ORFS. the older JIC is a metal to metal 37deg taper. That generally doesnt ever leak if it does you can get a wrench on it and snug it up a little tighter.

Also if you take the adpater out there is an oring under the adapter where it screws into the cylinder on most tractors if its Oring boss or metric. you might replace it also but its not that common of an issue.

You can find a ORFS oring kit at your local hardware or tractor dealer for usually 20 bucks its a good idea to keep them around. They are a smaller cross section than most standard orings so you need the actual ORFS kit to get the right ones.

[Huntindad]

You may check with Hudgins Company out near you.

Called both Hudgins and Kubota. Kubota was way higher than Hudgins. And, Hudgins is a lot closer. thanx for the heads up

Could be different issues. There are seals in the cylinder itself. Rod gland seals and piston seals. They can be tricky and unless you have some tools you might be better off to take to a local hydraulic shop.

Hoses leaking are just a matter of taking those off and having them remade somewhere. Now if you have Oring face seal fittings depends on what tractor brand etc. You may have a bad oring in the adapter. You can take the hose loose and see if your adapter has a flat face with an oring in it. If so it may just need replacing.

Tell tell sing of oring being bad is if fluid is leaking around the nut where the hose is connected to the adapter. Its either loose or oring is bad if its ORFS.

If hoses is leaking anywhere around the crimp or rubber area then hose will need to be remade.



OP problem is bad rod gland seals in his cylinder. But since he is there he needs to replace rod gland seals and piston seals. On both cylinders. My suggestion is go ahead and pull lift cylinders and tilt. Will save yourself some money in hydraulic fluid by doing it now vs later. Nowdays when a newer tractor starts leaking it wont be long and they will all start to leak. But at minimum he needs to do both tilt cylinders now.

Are you saying to pull all 4 cylinders the lift and tilt? I was gonna pull the 2 tilt( operates the bucket) . Tractor has about 225 hours(2007 model)

[Dale Moser]

After watching a video about removing the cylinders and how to pull/replace the seals and what tools are required...

I think I will pull the cylinders and look to see if a hydrolic shop or Kubota can do the R & R on the seals.

I’ve had about 15 forklifts over the years, and I quit replacing seals a long time ago. A good independent hydraulic shop is the way to go.


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[dclifton]

Called both Hudgins and Kubota. Kubota was way higher than Hudgins. And, Hudgins is a lot closer. thanx for the heads up



Are you saying to pull all 4 cylinders the lift and tilt? I was gonna pull the 2 tilt( operates the bucket) . Tractor has about 225 hours(2007 model)

I would do the 2 tilts for sure. But i can almost bet you money the lift cylinders will start leaking soon. Up to you take the 2 to start with and find you a local shop and see how they do.

[sqiggy]

Had one cylinder on bucket start leaking. Friend of mine came out and took it apart. Took the old seals to a shop near him. Came back and put it back together. Probably less than a week later, the other side went out. After watching my buddy do the first one, I had no trouble doing the second one. Then, couple weeks later, the lift seals went out on one side. That’s when I changed both at same time. Wasn’t going to wait for the second one to go out!!!