Originally posted by muddyfuzzy
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Time for adult arrows....
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Originally posted by Code View PostFor those who have played around with FOC and different insert weights, prior to settling on a weight and gluing them in, how did you test? I was thinking a wrap of electrical tape around the base of the field point and insert would secure it enough to the shaft for a few shots and provide a true enough reading. Any other ideas?
Next question...would it work better to pick up the ranch fairy field point test kit and run them with the stock glued aluminum inserts to find that magic FOC combo? Yes, it puts the weight a bit further out whereas a heavier insert keeps some weight back. Just trying to find a simple way to test that also gives accurate results.
I bought a couple of sacrifice arrows in different spines. The inserts had screw In weights as an option to add up to 100 grains. Then, I ran through different weight field tips up to 300 grains... found a spine/tip weight sweet spot for me and my bow at 400 grains up front on a 250 spine.
Then, I ordered the stuff to make a dozen of those arrows.
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Originally posted by Code View PostFor those who have played around with FOC and different insert weights, prior to settling on a weight and gluing them in, how did you test? I was thinking a wrap of electrical tape around the base of the field point and insert would secure it enough to the shaft for a few shots and provide a true enough reading. Any other ideas?
Next question...would it work better to pick up the ranch fairy field point test kit and run them with the stock glued aluminum inserts to find that magic FOC combo? Yes, it puts the weight a bit further out whereas a heavier insert keeps some weight back. Just trying to find a simple way to test that also gives accurate results.Last edited by critter69; 09-06-2020, 07:49 AM.
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Originally posted by IkemanTX View PostI bought a couple of sacrifice arrows in different spines. The inserts had screw In weights as an option to add up to 100 grains. Then, I ran through different weight field tips up to 300 grains... found a spine/tip weight sweet spot for me and my bow at 400 grains up front on a 250 spine.
Then, I ordered the stuff to make a dozen of those arrows.
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Originally posted by critter69 View PostThat is one of the good things about gold tip shafts, they make the fact weights system that is so simple to change point weights it’s ridicules. You can add and remove weight at will, tuning and foc are good ways to “ play” around with it. Find what tunes best with your set up and just add weight to each shaft. Want to change it next week, remove or add and experiment again. It’s worth it, far easier then buying different weight inserts, and having to glue or anything, and better then the fairy field point test kit by a long shot.
Just to be clear, weight forward is not the same thing as tip weight. Most guys build FOC by adding insert weight NOT tip weight. Arrow A has 300 grains up front; 100 grains of tip weight and 200 grains of insert weight. Arrow B has the same 300 up front by way of 200 grains of tip weight and a 100 grains of insert weight. Arrow B will always have a higher % FOC, it’s just the way the math works. The KE and Mo numbers will be identical but the % FOC will be different.
That being said any weight is better than no weight at all and most buys like to shoot 100-125 grain tips so you get limited very quickly on how you can change the FOC or overall weight of a build. But if I sell you a “test kit” and tell you to go do some “testing” and you get some stupid results then we chalk it up to testing. It’s a little different when it just has to be right on a turn key build. People are busy, if they wanted to “test” stuff they would be QA guys or Engineers.
I think Eric hits on a big point in his previous response. He says he doesn’t “use or teach” that process anymore. What we are seeing here is the evolution of processes that only comes from a greater understanding of what actually going on when an arrow is actually loosed. Just speaking for myself I’m doing things differently today than I was 10 years ago and that’s the way it should be. Most people are just trying to make a buck and get ahead, see it for what it is and go to those who have the real knowledge.
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Originally posted by MnM View PostI’m curious, what was your final setup and what broadhead did you pair with it?
250 spine Black Eagle Carnivore,
100 grain stainless steel Ethics Archery insert
315 Grain Tuffhead Single Bevel
Fletchings yet to be decided.
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Originally posted by lovemylegacy View PostHey if you want to go "adult" with your setup, that's great, just don't under sale speed with a lighter/ish arrow with a very sharp broadhead that is flying true. A lot of bowhunters use this setup with lots of success.
The debate on this rages on, I just hate it when one clan starts pissing on another clan....makes us look infantile. Zane has some very good points/proof, so he is worthy of a listen as is enewman and others, however if your setup is productive, why change it? I was falling into that trap, I backed out of it very slowly.
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"My ultimate goal is to be confident to take the kill zone shot, regardless of animal angle."
You need to just let that dream go bubba. This is bowhunting, and you have to wait for the animal to give you the right angle. You can take a deer at a lot of different angles if you're a good shot and know the animals anatomy, and where you can slide that arrow through. A lot of it has to do with how high strung the animal is and just knowing what you can get away with.
Or you can play it safe and just take high percentage broadside shots.
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Originally posted by ultrastealth View PostWould you call this an "adult arrow"?
https://youtu.be/Cn98DojFo_I
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Originally posted by Lone_Wolf View Post"My ultimate goal is to be confident to take the kill zone shot, regardless of animal angle."
You need to just let that dream go bubba. This is bowhunting, and you have to wait for the animal to give you the right angle. You can take a deer at a lot of different angles if you're a good shot and know the animals anatomy, and where you can slide that arrow through. A lot of it has to do with how high strung the animal is and just knowing what you can get away with.
Or you can play it safe and just take high percentage broadside shots.
This statement doesn’t hold a lot of water. While I never tell anybody to take a shot outside their comfort zone, the right arrow setup with the correct broadhead can/will open up shot scenarios. One has to be on top of anatomy and practice these shots but they are achievable with the right approach. Head shots and butt hole shots are the only ones I stay away from, any other presentation and I will burn them down.
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