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What to buy? 6.5 CRM?

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    #16
    Regardless what you hunt ‘round here, hard to beat a .270
    Cheap ammo too
    Spend more money and research on scope and less on caliber.
    Savage or Ruger.

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      #17
      I bought a Tikka CTR in 6.5 last August simply because of ammo availability. I didn't understand the whole infatuation that people had with that caliber. All, I can tell you is that it is my go-to rifle now. It is the most accurate rifle I have ever shot (my customs included) and I have not had a single animal take a step....roughly 40 hogs and 2 deer.

      The Manbun is just an inherently accurate cartridge and it kills good. It's not he Holy Grail but I regret not buying one sooner.

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        #18
        Originally posted by PlanoDano View Post
        Please expound. I would like to hear your reasoning here.
        Since I reload most all of what I shoot, I don't like the head space changing every time the round is fired. On new ammo the cartridge head spaces off the belt. After it's fired the case stretches and then the head spacing is off the shoulder. After a while if you don't bump the shoulder back to the point where it head spaces off the belt again then eventually the cases get tight when closing the bolt. I've had to bump some cases back as much as .005 to get back to spec depending on the gun. Working the brass that much by bumping the shoulder back every reload weakens the case and you cannot or should not use it anymore. You know its done when the case head starts to separate. To me it's too expensive not being able to reload cases 10 to 12 times. Not saying that belted calibers are not accurate, just that I don't get as much use out of the cases and reloading is much trickier and time consuming.
        The only belted caliber I have now is a 338 win mag Browning x-bolt and one deez days somebody else will own it and all the ammo I have loaded for it.

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          #19
          Originally posted by muzzlebrake View Post
          Since I reload most all of what I shoot, I don't like the head space changing every time the round is fired. On new ammo the cartridge head spaces off the belt. After it's fired the case stretches and then the head spacing is off the shoulder. After a while if you don't bump the shoulder back to the point where it head spaces off the belt again then eventually the cases get tight when closing the bolt. I've had to bump some cases back as much as .005 to get back to spec depending on the gun. Working the brass that much by bumping the shoulder back every reload weakens the case and you cannot or should not use it anymore. You know its done when the case head starts to separate. To me it's too expensive not being able to reload cases 10 to 12 times. Not saying that belted calibers are not accurate, just that I don't get as much use out of the cases and reloading is much trickier and time consuming.
          The only belted caliber I have now is a 338 win mag Browning x-bolt and one deez days somebody else will own it and all the ammo I have loaded for it.
          Thanks,
          I have been thinning the number of cartridges I am keeping this year.
          7 RMG is one I had planned on keeping. Still probably will keep it as I do not practice a lot with that round.

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            #20
            Originally posted by muzzlebrake View Post
            Since I reload most all of what I shoot, I don't like the head space changing every time the round is fired. On new ammo the cartridge head spaces off the belt. After it's fired the case stretches and then the head spacing is off the shoulder. After a while if you don't bump the shoulder back to the point where it head spaces off the belt again then eventually the cases get tight when closing the bolt. I've had to bump some cases back as much as .005 to get back to spec depending on the gun. Working the brass that much by bumping the shoulder back every reload weakens the case and you cannot or should not use it anymore. You know its done when the case head starts to separate. To me it's too expensive not being able to reload cases 10 to 12 times. Not saying that belted calibers are not accurate, just that I don't get as much use out of the cases and reloading is much trickier and time consuming.
            The only belted caliber I have now is a 338 win mag Browning x-bolt and one deez days somebody else will own it and all the ammo I have loaded for it.

            Dang brother, you want 10-12 reloadings out of a magnum case? I throw my 308 and 223 away after 4.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              #21
              Thanks for all the info.. perhaps 270 is something to look at..


              David G

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                #22
                Any of them WSM's are good. I have a 7mm wsm, 300wsm and my favorite of all time and my go to rifle for killing stuff is my custom built 338wsm built on a Browning A-bolt. I killed a buck with the 7mm wsm at 435 yards dropped in his tracks.

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                  #23
                  I’d go with the plain ol 308. Ammo is still fairly easy to find if you look hard enough. If you’ve been killing stuff just fine with the 30/30 then i would imagine the 308 will get you out as far as you’re comfortable shooting

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                    #24

                    Gracias.....

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                      #25
                      Are you wanting to kill at longer distances or are you just wanting to bang steel? Banging steel I’d choose a 6 Creedmoor, but I wouldn’t have any reservations killing with it at distance either IF you’re capable of good shot placement. I’ve shot a handful of does with a 6 Creed and 6x47 Lapua from 318-598 yds, and none have made it more than a few steps. The 598 made it about 15 to be exact. The rest were DRT with 4 being around 450 yds. IMO the 6.5 Creedmoor is just too dam slow. I don’t care for it, although it is a great cartridge to learn on. Ammo quality has been excellent for a good price (until this year anyways). It’s been extremely consistent which is what’s necessary to learn distance shooting. If your ammo isn’t consistent you won’t know whether you’re shooting like crap or the rifle is, and it’s hard to fix an issue if you don’t know the cause.

                      And don’t let anyone talk crap about shooting a small caliber. If they can’t get it done with a smaller caliber that’s on them.

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                        #26
                        now i am learning some good stuff, and they say you can't teach an ol'dog!

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                          #27
                          Your looking at this backwards.....see what ammo you can find, buy it and then go find the rifle in that caliber you like.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by 175gr7.62 View Post
                            Dang brother, you want 10-12 reloadings out of a magnum case? I throw my 308 and 223 away after 4.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            I’m on 20+ firings out of my 6BR and straight 284. AMP annealer so it’s quite an investment but well worth it.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by kck View Post
                              I’m on 20+ firings out of my 6BR and straight 284. AMP annealer so it’s quite an investment but well worth it.
                              I been using a tray of water and a burns-o-matic for years. Kinda old school way but it's cheep. I also start with new Starline brass if I can find it in my caliber.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by TCB View Post
                                Your looking at this backwards.....see what ammo you can find, buy it and then go find the rifle in that caliber you like.
                                so very true, i did that with the 6.5, but nada, now after reading the differences between the 25-06 , 6.5 and 270
                                i am looking at the 25-06 as i am not looking for shooting over 280 yards, so i would be good with the 25-06 but as you say the AMMO is the kicker as well

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